LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

[A Cold Day in Tibet] frontispiece
[Headquarters of the Mission at Lhasa]to face p.6
[Chorten]"12
[Panorama of a Convent]"12
[Tuna Village]"20
[Chinese General Ma]"30
[On the Road to Gautsa]"30
[Rock Sculptures]41
[Praying-flags and Mani Wall]to face p.54
[Officers' Tents, Mounted Infantry Camp, Lingmathang]to face p.54
[Subadar Sangat Singh, 1st Mounted Infantry]"60
[Wounded Kyang]"70
[Goa, or Tibetan Gazelle]"70
[The Tang La]"76
[Phari Jong]"76
[Mounted Infantry Ponies, Tuna Camp]"94
[Yak in Ekka]"94
[The Depon's Last Conference with Colonel Younghusband]to face p.102
[Tibetans retreating from Sangars]"106
[Turning Tibetans out of the Sangars on the Hillside]to face p.106
[Diagrammatic View of Hot Springs Action]"110
[The Tibetan Dead]"118
[Field-Hospital Doolie with Tibetan Bearers]"118
[Tibetan Soldiers]"124
[Wounded Tibetan]"130
[Wounded Tibetan in British Hospital]"130
[Pioneers destroying Kangma Wall]to face p.142
[Gyantse Jong]"154
[Golden-roofed Temple, Gyantse]"182
[Buddhas in Palkhor Choide]"182
[Tsachen Monastery]"198
[Group of Shapés parleying]"198
[Sketch of the Karo la]213
[Kham Prisoners]to face p.214
[Gurkhas climbing at the Karo la]"214
[Pehté Jong]"222
[Gubchi Jong]"230
[Old Chain-Bridge at Chaksam]"236
[Crossing the Tsangpo]"236
[The Potala]"244
[Entry into Lhasa]"250
[Corner of Courtyard of Astrologer's Temple,Nechang]to face p.250
[The Potala, West Front]"260
[Mounted Infantry Guard at the Potala]"260
[Metal Bowls outside the Jokhang]"268
[Street Scene in Lhasa]"268
[The Tsarung Shapé]"274
[Mongolians in Lhasa]"274
[The Ta Lama]"286
[Soldier of the Amban's Escort]"286
[Colonel Younghusband and the Amban at theRaces]to face p.290
[The Tsarung Shapé and the Sechung Shapé leavingLhalu House after the Durbar]to face p.294
[Tibetan Drama played in the Courtyard of LhaluHouse]to face p.298

THE UNVEILING OF LHASA

CHAPTER I THE CAUSES OF THE EXPEDITION

The conduct of Great Britain in her relations with Tibet puts me in mind of the dilemma of a big boy at school who submits to the attacks of a precocious youngster rather than incur the imputation of 'bully.' At last the situation becomes intolerable, and the big boy, bully if you will, turns on the youth and administers the deserved thrashing. There is naturally a good deal of remonstrance from spectators who have not observed the byplay which led to the encounter. But sympathy must be sacrificed to the restitution of fitting and respectful relations.

The aim of this record of an individual's impressions of the recent Tibetan expedition is to convey some idea of the life we led in Tibet, the scenes through which we passed, and the strange people we fought and conquered. We killed several thousand of these brave, ill-armed men; and as the story of the fighting is not always pleasant reading, I think it right before describing the punitive side of the expedition to make it quite clear that military operations were unavoidable—that we were drawn into the vortex of war against our will by the folly and obstinacy of the Tibetans.

The briefest review of the rebuffs Great Britain has submitted to during the last twenty years will suffice to show that, so far from being to blame in adopting punitive measures, she is open to the charge of unpardonable weakness in allowing affairs to reach the crisis which made such punishment necessary.

It must be remembered that Tibet has not always been closed to strangers. The history of European travellers in Lhasa forms a literature to itself. Until the end of the eighteenth century only physical obstacles stood in the way of an entry to the capital. Jesuits and Capuchins reached Lhasa, made long stays there, and were even encouraged by the Tibetan Government. The first[1] Europeans to visit the city and leave an authentic record of their journey were the Fathers Grueber and d'Orville, who penetrated Tibet from China in 1661 by the Sining route, and stayed in Lhasa two months. In 1715 the Jesuits Desideri and Freyre reached Lhasa; Desideri stayed there thirteen years. In 1719 arrived Horace de la Penna and the Capuchin Mission, who built a chapel and a hospice, made several converts, and were not finally expelled till 1740.[2] The Dutchman Van der Putte, first layman to penetrate to the capital, arrived in 1720, and stayed there some years. After this we have no record of a European reaching Lhasa until the adventurous journey in 1811 of Thomas Manning, the first and only Englishman to reach the city before this year. Manning arrived in the retinue of a Chinese General whom he had met at Phari Jong, and whose gratitude he had won for medical services. He remained in the capital four months, and during his stay he made the acquaintance of several Chinese and Tibetan officials, and was even presented to the Dalai Lama himself. The influence of his patron, however, was not strong enough to insure his safety in the city. He was warned that his life was endangered, and returned to India by the same way he came. In 1846 the Lazarist missionaries Huc and Gabet reached Lhasa in the disguise of Lamas after eighteen months' wanderings through China and Mongolia, during which they must have suffered as much from privations and hardships as any travellers who have survived to tell the tale. They were received kindly by the Amban and Regent, but permission to stay was firmly refused them on the grounds that they were there to subvert the religion of the State. Despite the attempts of several determined travellers, none of whom got within a hundred miles of Lhasa, the Lazarist fathers were the last Europeans to set foot in the city until Colonel Younghusband rode through the Pargo Kaling gate on August 4, 1904.

The records of these travellers to Lhasa, and of others who visited different parts of Tibet before the end of the eighteenth century, do not point to any serious political obstacles to the admission of strangers. Two centuries ago, Europeans might travel in remote parts of Asia with greater safety than is possible to-day. Suspicions have naturally increased with our encroachments, and the white man now inspires fear where he used only to awake interest.[3]