January xxviii.
Resolving at last to take leave of my good friends at Hamburg, Mynhéer Platia, with two other merchants, and myself, hire a post waggon for Holland. We set forward by seven a clock in the morning, and continue our way two German miles up the river, by the village of Offensey to Blankeness; there we cross the Elbe, and proceed to a town called Buxtchude in the dominion of Sweden, and by night arrive at a poor house in the wood called Arnswoldt. Here we drive in with our waggon, and alight at the same room, which was to receive us and our horses, and be at the same time our chamber and parlour, and the kitchin of our old landlady, who was smoked like a ham of bacon. We found her with her houshold, brooding over a fire hearth in the middle of this apartment, common to her self and cattle. Over which there was no chimney, but a wooden rack well stored with bacon, where the smoke was employed to prepare the provision of the year, without wasting itself at the funnel of a chimney. We are laid on a large heap of straw[141], whilst the cows are chewing the cud on each side, and lulling us to sleep. It was here I first saw the black bread of this country, called bonpournickel; and was told, that this with plenty of swines flesh, and the thick water of this flat country, were the only dainties of the place. However, it was our good fortune not to be reduced to that diet; for we fared well on our hamper, which we brought with us from Hamburg.
January xxix.
Leaving this disagreable place very early, we arrive at the gates of Bremen late at night, and are therefore obliged to lodge in the suburbs, till we could enter the town the next morning. It is a large and fair city, free of the empire, and one of the most considerable Hanse towns, seated on the Weser, or Visurgis. Here we baited at the wine cellar over against the Exchange, where there is a magazine of good Rhenish, inferior in nothing but the quantity of vessels, and largeness of the stock, to that of Hamburg. We then proceed by nine a clock (after I had visited Mr. Willet, an English merchant) and on the farther side of the town cross the river under a noble gate, which in an inscription calls this VETVSTISSIMVS VISVRGIS TRAIECTVS. The Weser is here fair, wide, and almost straight, affording a reception for the vessels belonging to the town; but those of a greater burthen are obliged to remain some leagues lower. At this river we now leave Lower Saxony, and enter the circle of Westphalia. In an hour and a half we come to Delmenhorst, an old town and castle belonging to the King of Denmark. From thence we proceed to Wildeshusen, a town in the dominion of the Elector of Hanover, where we lodge.
January xxxi.
We go on this day to Klopperburg, a town of the Lower Bishoprick of Munster; from whence in a little time we reach the banks of the Hase, and in a few hours more the town thence called Haselun, where we take up our lodging that night.
February i.
We had hitherto found Westphalia a desolate and wild country, overrun with heath, except here and there adorned with small groves of stately oak, in the middle of which we commonly found a single farm house, enclosed with rude pales like a park, which in summer time must be truly pleasant. In several places by the road side are seen posts, with iron boxes on the top, for the receipt of charity, as if the land it self confessed its poverty. However in this day’s journey the appearance began to alter, for about ten a clock we arrived at Lingen, a pretty compact and well built town, which lately belonged to King William, but now to the King of Prussia. The neighbourhood is well stored with woods; the skirts of the town adorned with frequent gardens, and alleys of trees orderly planted; and the whole place by a show of riches and beauty confessing, as it were, the benefit of a moderate and protestant government.
Just beyond the limits of this town we cross the Ems, or Amasia, by a ferry boat, and afterwards continue our journey to Northern, the first town of the United Provinces, in the limits of which we now pass out of Westphalia into Overissel. After a short bait we proceed to Otmarsh, and there lodge. This is the first place, since I left Hamburg, where I was offered a bed, having hitherto slept in my cloaths upon the straw.