Fig. 60.
Use the same wooden block that you used to punch out the radiator on and place it horizontally in the vise jaws so that enough of it projects beyond them to support the hood as shown in [Fig. 61].
Fig. 61.
Use the dividers to mark off four or five vents and see to it that they are laid out square with the hood. Try to find a chisel that is as wide as the vent is long, a 1-inch cutting edge is about right. Place the edge of the chisel squarely on the mark and hammer it through the tin with several blows from the mallet. Make these cuts very straight and parallel with each other. Cut the vents in both sides of the hood and the hood is then ready to have the filler cap soldered on.
Soldering on the Filler Cap.—Use a large sized screw cap of a tooth-paste tube or the cap from a paste or paint tube for the filler cap. Some of these caps are octagonal in shape and have various initials stamped on the top and these look very much like the filler caps used on the radiators of real automobiles.
Clean away all paste or paint from the inside of the cap and then scrape the lower edge bright and clean. These caps are usually made of a combination of metals that is very much like the solder used for soldering tin and they will melt very easily if brought in contact with a soldering copper, so that the cap must be soldered to the hood by an indirect heating method.
Soldering paste is first applied to the top of the hood where the cap is to be soldered and then a small puddle of solder is applied to the tin at this place with a hot soldering copper. The solder is allowed to cool and then the cap is placed in position on the solder after applying a bit of soldering paste to its lower edge.
Heat the soldering copper very hot and apply it inside the hood so that as much of the point as possible rests directly under the puddle of solder on which the cap rests, [Fig. 62].
