Fig. 62.
Hold it in this position until the puddle of solder melts and a bright line of solder is seen to run around the base of the cap where it rests on the hood. Remove the copper just as soon as the solder melts and runs around the cap and let the solder harden before moving the hood about. If the cap moves out of place while the solder is molten, owing to the bubbling of the soldering paste, it may immediately be pushed back into place with a matchstick before the solder hardens.
The hood will become very hot before the solder melts under the cap, but it may be easily held to the bench by wrapping a rag around it to protect the hand.
A thick square bar of iron may be heated to a dull red at the end and used in place of the soldering copper for soldering on the cap. Either the copper or the bar of iron must be very hot. They must be heated to a much greater temperature than ordinarily used for soldering.
When the filler cap is soldered in place the hood is ready to be soldered to the frame, but the dash-board and seat should be made before this is done.
CHAPTER XIII
Making a Toy Auto Truck (Continued)
THE DASH-BOARD—THE SEAT—ASSEMBLING THE TRUCK—SPRINGS—SOLDERING THE WHEELS ON THE AXLES—STRIP WASHERS