Neither Mr. Mummery, nor Messrs. Baumann and Penhall, descended by the routes which they struck out, and in each case the respective parties descended by the northern or Zermatt route. It is therefore at present impossible to determine the relative difficulty of the various routes up the mountain. Still, I think that the great majority of tourists will, as heretofore, prefer the ordinary Zermatt route, and that comparatively few will patronize the newly-discovered ones.

The ascent of the Matterhorn has now taken its place amongst those which are considered fashionable, and many persons get upon it who ought not to be upon a mountain at all. Although much has been done on both sides of it to facilitate the routes, and although they are much easier to traverse than they were in years gone by, it is still quite possible to get into trouble upon them, and to come utterly to grief. Considering how large a number of entirely incompetent persons venture upon the mountain, it is surprising so few meet with accidents; but if the number of accidents continues to increase at its present rate it will, ere long, not be easy to find a place of interment in the English churchyard at Zermatt.

[pg 315]

E. TABLE OF ATTEMPTS MADE TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN PREVIOUS TO THE FIRST ASCENT.

No. of
Attempt.
Date.Names.Side upon which
the Attempt was
made, and Place
arrived at.
Greatest
Height
attained.
Remarks.
11858-9.J.-Antoine Carrel.
J.-Jacques Carrel
Victor Carrel.
Gab. Maquignaz.
Abbé Gorret.
Breil side
“Chimney.”
12,650Several attempts were made before this height was attained; the men concerned cannot remember how many. See [p. 46].
1860.
2JulyAlfred Parker.
Charles Parker.
Sandbach Parker.
Zermatt side
East face.
11,500?Without guides. [P. 46-7].
3AugustV. Hawkins.
J. Tyndall.
Breil side
Hawkins got to foot of “Great Tower,” Tyndall a few feet higher.
12,992
13,050?
Guides—J. J. Bennen and J.-Jacques Carrel. [Pp.] 47-9.
1861.
4JulyMessrs. ParkerZermatt side
East face.
11,700?No guides. [P. 49].
5Aug. 29J.-Antoine Carrel.
J.-Jacques Carrel.
Breil side
“Crête du Coq.”
13,230See [p. 57].
6Aug. 29-30Edward WhymperBreil side
“Chimney.”
12,650Camped upon the mountain, with an Oberland guide. [Pp. 51-7].
1862.
7JanuaryT. S. KennedyZermatt side
East face.
11,000?Winter attempt. [Pp. 58-9].
8July 7-8R. J. S. Macdonald.
Edward Whymper.
Breil side
Arête below “Chimney.”
12,000Guides—Johann zum Taugwald and Johann Kronig. [Pp. 64-5].
9July 9-10R. J. S. Macdonald.
Edward Whymper.
Breil side
“Great Tower.”
12,992Guides—J.-A. Carrel and Pession. [P. 66].
July 18-19 ” ”Breil side
Somewhat higher than the lowest part of the “Cravate.”
13,400Alone. [Pp. 67-79].
10July 23-24 ” ”Breil side
“Crête du Coq.”
13,150Guides—J.-A. Carrel, Cæsar Carrel, and Luc Meynet. [P. 80].
11July 25-26 ” ”Breil side
Nearly as high as the highest part of the “Cravate.”
13,460With Luc Meynet. [Pp. 81-2].
12July 27-28J. TyndallBreil side
“The Shoulder,” to foot of final peak.
13,970Guides—J. J. Bennen and Anton Walter; porters—J.-Antoine Carrel, Cæsar Carrel, and another. [Pp. 83-87], [90-92].
1863.
13Aug. 10-11Edward WhymperBreil side
“Crête du Coq.”
13,280Guides—J.-A. Carrel, Cæsar Carrel, Luc Meynet, and two porters. [Pp. 114-123].
1865.
14June 21. ” ”South-east face11,200?Guides—Michel Croz, Christian Almer, Franz Biener; porter—Luc Meynet. [Pp. 231-235].

[pg 316]

F. ASCENTS OF THE MATTERHORN.

No. of
Ascent
Date.Names.Route taken.Remarks.
1865.
1July 13-15 Lord Francis Douglas.
D. Hadow.
Charles Hudson.
Edward Whymper.
Zermatt
(Or Northern route.)
Guides—Michel Croz, Peter Taugwalder père, Peter Taugwalder fils. See [pp. 271-290].
2July 16-18Jean-Antoine Carrel.
J. Baptiste Bich.
Amé Gorret.
J.-Augustin Meynet.
Breil
(Or Southern route.)
The first two named only ascended to the summit. See [pp. 282], [304-6].
1867.
3Aug. 13-15F. Craufurd GroveBreilGuides—J. A. Carrel, Salamon Meynet, and J. B. Bich.
4Sept. 12-14Jos. Maquignaz.
J.-Pierre Maquignaz.
Victor Maquignaz.
Cæsar Carrel.
J.-B. Carrel.
BreilAn easier route was discovered by this party than that taken upon July 17, 1865. The first two named only ascended to the summit. See [p. 309].
5Oct. 1-3W. Leighton JordanBreilGuides—the Maquignaz’s just named, Cæsar Carrel, and F. Ansermin. The Maquignaz’s and Mr. Jordan alone reached the summit.
1868.
6July 24-25J. M. ElliottZermattGuides—Jos. Marie Lochmatter and Peter Knubel.
7July 26-28J. TyndallUp Breil side and down Zermatt side.Guides—Jos. and Pierre Maquignaz, and three others.
8Aug. 2-4O. Hoiler.
F. Thioly.
” ?Account given in hotel-book at Breil is not very clear. Guides seem to have been Jos. and Victor Maquignaz and Elie Pession.
9Aug. 3-4G. E. FosterZermattGuides—Hans Baumann, Peter Bernett, and Peter Knubel.
10Aug. 8Paul GuessfeldtZermattGuides—Jos. Marie Lochmatter, Nich. Knubel, and Peter Knubel.
11Sept. 1-2A. G. Girdlestone.
F. Craufurd Grove.
W. E. U. Kelso.
ZermattGuides—Jos. Marie Lochmatter and the two Knubels.
12Sept. 2-3G. B. MarkeZermattGuides—Nich. Knubel and Pierre Zurbriggen (Saas).
13Sept. 3-5F. GiordanoUp Breil side and down Zermatt side.Guides—J. A. Carrel and Jos. Maquignaz. See [p. 310].
14Sept. 8-9Paul SauzetBreilGuides—J. A. Carrel and Jos. Maquignaz.
1869.
15July 20James EcclesBreilGuides—J. A. Carrel, Bich, and two Payots (Chamounix).
16Aug. 26-27R. B. HeathcoteBreilGuides—The four Maquignaz’s (Val Tournanche).
1870.
17July 20 (?)?ZermattNo details have come to hand.
1871.
18July 16-17E. R. WhitwellZermattGuides—Ulrich and Ch. Lauener.
19July 21-22F. Gardiner.
F. Walker.
Lucy Walker.
ZermattGuides—Peter Perrn, P. Knubel, N. Knubel, Melchior Anderegg, and Heinrich Anderegg.
20?— FowlerZermattGuides—C. Knubel and J. M. Lochmatter.
21Aug. 2-3W. E. Utterson-KelsoBreilGuides—Victor and Emmanuel Maquignaz and Joseph Gillioz.
22Aug. 7-8R. S. LyleBreilGuides—J. J. Maquignaz and ?
23Aug. 18-19C. E. Mathews.
F. Morshead.
BreilGuides—J. A. Carrel and Melchior Anderegg, with two porters.
24Sept. 4-5M. C. Brevoort.
W. A. B. Coolidge.
Zermatt to BreilGuides—Ch. Almer, Ulr. Almer, and N. Knubel.
25Sept. 7-8R. FowlerZermattGuides—J. M. Lochmatter and P. Knubel.
1872.
26July 22-23F. Gardiner.
T. Middlemore.
Zermatt to BreilGuides—J. Maquignaz, Peter Knubel, and Johann Jaun.
27July 21H. Bicknell?Guides—Not known.
28July 24-25R. Pendlebury.
W. M. Pendlebury.
C. Taylor.
Zermatt to BreilGuides—Peter Taugwalder fils, Gabriel Spechtenhauser, and F. Imseng.
29July 26J. JacksonBreil to ZermattGuides—Jos. Maquignaz and Anton Ritz.
30July ?F. A. Wallroth?Guides—Not known.
31Aug. 29-30A. RothschildZermattGuides—Franz Biener and two Knubels.
32Sept. 1-2G. A. PassinghamZermattGuides—F. Imseng and Franz Andermatten.
33Sept. 9-10H. Denning.
E. Hutchins.
J. Young.
ZermattGuides—Melchior Schlapp, Peter Rubi, and two Knubels.
34Sept. 10-11L. SaundersonZermattGuides—Peter Bohren and Peter Knubel.
35Sept. 11-12E. MillidgeZermattGuide— — Pollinger.
36Sept. 11-12D. J. AbercrombyZermattGuides—N. Knubel and P. J. Knubel.
37Sept. 16-17C. BronzetZermattGuides—P. Knubel, F. Truffer, and J. Truffer.
1873.
38July 6-7T. Cox.
J. Gardiner.
ZermattGuides—Peter Knubel and J. M. Lochmatter.
39July 6-7C. ThéraulazZermattGuides—J. Gillot and Ignace Sarbach.
40July 21-22A. F. LeachZermattGuides—P. Taugwalder fils and J. M. Kronig.
41July 21-22T. A. BishopZermattGuides—P. Knubel, P. J. Knubel, and F. Devouassoud.
42July 23-24H. SalmondBreilGuides—Not known.
43July 23-24A. G. Puller.Breil to ZermattGuides—J. A. Carrel and Jos. Maquignaz.
44July 25-26E. LeathamZermattGuides—P. Knubel and Joseph Imboden.
45July 25-27W. W. SimpsonBreil to ZermattGuides—J. A. Carrel, P. Maquignaz, and a Chamounix guide.
46July 29-30M. DéchyZermattGuides—J. A. Carrel and P. Taugwalder fils.
47Aug. 3J. Bischoff.
E. Burckhardt.
ZermattGuides—
48Aug. 6-7Emile VeyrinZermattGuides—P. J. Knubel; porter, Joh. Knubel.
49Aug. 9-10L. EwbankZermattGuides—J. M. and Alex. Lochmatter.
50Aug. 11G. E. Hulton.
F. C. Hulton.
ZermattGuides—Ch. Lauener, Johann Fischer, and Peter Rubi.
51Aug. 11-12Marquis MaglioniZermattGuides—P. Knubel, Edouard Capelin; porter H. Knubel.
52Aug. 14-15F. DawkinsZermattGuides—Franz Andermatten, A. Burgener; porter, Abraham Imseng.
53Aug. 15-16J. F. Bramston.
F. Morshead.
C. H. Hawkins.
ZermattGuides—Melchior Anderegg, B. Nageli, and J. M. Lochmatter.
54Aug. 16H. S. HoareZermattGuides—Johann von Bergen and A. Pollinger.
55Aug. 18-22E. Pigeon.
— Pigeon.
Breil to ZermattGuides—J. A. Carrel, V. Maquignaz, and J. Martin. This party was confined in the hut on the Italian side from the 18th to the 21st of August, by bad weather; and in descending upon the Zermatt side it was surprised by night before the cabane could be reached, and had to pass the night on the open mountain-side.
56Aug. 22-23F. P. BarlowZermattGuides—Jakob Anderegg and P. Taugwalder fils.
57Oct 2-3W. W. StuartBreil to ZermattGuides—Jos. Maquignaz, F. Bic, and Jos. Balmat.
1874.
58July 14-15T. G. BonneyZermattGuides—J. M. Lochmatter and J. Petrus.
59July 17-18F. WolfZermattGuides—A. Pollinger and Jos. Lauber.
60July 18-19A. Millot and wifeZermattGuides—Melchior Anderegg, A. Maurer, and P. Taugwalder fils.
61July ?H. Lamb?Guides—Not known.
62July 19-20J. BaumannZermattGuide-Ulrich Lauener.
63July 23-24? E. JavelleBreil to ZermattGuides—
64July 27-29L. K. RankineZermattGuides—A. Pollinger and Jos. Längen.
65Aug. 7J. Birkbeck, Jun.Breil to BreilGuides—J. Petrus and J. B. Bic. Mr. Birkbeck and his guides started from Breil, crossed the mountain to the northern side, and returned to Breil, in 19 hours.
66Aug. 7-8G. F. Cobb.
S. Forster.
A. M. Tod.
ZermattGuides—P. Taugwalder fils, Jos. Taugwalder, and A. Summermatter.
67Aug. 7-8M. BramstonZermattGuide—B. Nageli.
68Aug. 12G. DévinZermattGuides—L. Pollinger and Henri Séraphin.
69Aug. 19-20L. N. WalfordZermattGuides—Alex. Burgener and B. Venetz.
70Aug. 20-21A. D. PuckleZermattGuides—J. Petrus and N. Knubel.
71Aug. 20-21R. LindtZermattGuides—Ig. Sarbach and Peter Sulzer.
72Aug. 20-22Edward WhymperZermattGuides—J. A. Carrel, J. B. Bic, and J. M. Lochmatter. An ascent made for the sake of photography. Passed two nights in the Zermatt cabane.
73Aug. 22-23W. E. DavidsonZermattGuides—Laurent Lanier and Ig. Sarbach.
74Aug. 23Prof. G. B——
Prof. K——
?Guides—P. Maquignaz, E. Pession, and Chas. Gorret. Account is illegible.
75Aug. 25F. W. Headley.
E. P. Arnold.
ZermattGuides—A. Pollinger and J. J. Truffer.
76Aug. 25H. J. SmithZermattGuides—Alex. Lochmatter and Jos. Längen.
77Aug. 25M. J. BoswellZermattGuides—Jos. Imboden and Jos. Sarbach.
78Aug. 26W. J. LewisZermattGuides—Moritz Julen and Jos. Taugwalder.
79Aug. 27W. StirlingZermattGuides—Johann Petrus and Franz Burgener.
80Aug. 28J. H. Pratt.
— Prothero.
ZermattGuides—J. A. Carrel and P. Knubel. Ascent made in one day.
81Aug. 31H. N. MalanZermattGuides—Jean Martin and A. Lochmatter.
82Sept. 1-2W. A. LewisZermattGuides—J. M. Lochmatter and P. Imboden.
83Sept. 2E. Dent.
C. T. Dent.
ZermattGuide—A. Burgener.
84Sept. 2J. W. BorelZermattGuides—A. Pollinger and J. J. Truffer.
85Sept. 3Ernst CalbenlaZermattGuides—P. Bohren and P. Müller.
86Sept. 8A. H. Simpson.
M. Cullinan.
ZermattGuides—P. Knubel, P. J. Knubel, and P. Truffer.
87Sept. 8A. H. BurtonZermattGuides—P. Baumann, P. Taugwalder, and B. Nageli.
88Sept. 9E. Pigeon.
— Pigeon.
ZermattGuides—N. and J. Knubel, and F. Sarbach.
89Sept. 16-17W. NägeliZermattGuides—J. and P. Knubel.
1875.
90May 10— Corona?Guides—J. A. Carrel and J. J. Maquignaz. Account is perfectly illegible.
91Aug. 2-3L. BrioschiZermattGuides—F. and A. Imseng and P. J. Andermatten.
92Aug. 10J. W. HartleyZermattGuides—P. Rubi and J. Moser.
93Aug. 10-11F. T. WetheredZermattGuides—Ch. Almer and A. Pollinger.
94Aug. 11A. Fairbanks.
W. Fairbanks.
ZermattGuide—J. Perrn, and a porter.
95Aug. 12D. L. PickmanZermattGuides—J. Taugwalder and F. Biener. Ascent made in one day.
96Aug. 16D. MerrittZermattGuides—No information.
97Aug. 16E. HornbyZermattGuides—A. and F. Pollinger.
98Aug. 16J. J. Morgan.
C. L. Morgan.
ZermattGuides—J. Imboden and J. Sarbach.
99Aug. 16A. W. PayneZermattGuide—J. Taugwalder.
100Aug. 17J. H. Pratt.
W. Leaf.
Breil to ZermattGuides—J. A. Carrel and N. Knubel.
101Aug. 19-20F. Tendron.
G. F. Vernon.
ZermattGuides—F. and P. Sarbach and J. Taugwalder.
102Aug. 23-24H. R. WhitehouseZermattGuides—P. J. Knubel and P. T. Truffer.
103Aug. 26-27F. Morshead.
A. O. Prickard.
H. S. Wilson.
ZermattGuides—M. Anderegg, Ch. Lauener, and J. Moser.
104Sept. 7H. G. GotchZermattGuides—Ig. and Jos. Sarbach.
105Sept. 8R. KingZermattGuides—J. A. Carrel and Jos. Coulter, and (porter) A. Payot.
106Sept. 8H. LoschgeBreil to ZermattGuides—J. Petrus and A. Ranier.
107Sept. 9P. MethuenZermattGuides—Johann Jaun and A. Maurer.
108Sept. 14— ButterZermattGuides—Jos. Imboden and J. Brantschen.
109Sept. 15W. KittanZermattGuides—J. Petrus and Franz Burgener.
1876.
110July 22-23A. H. Cawood.
J. B. Colgrove.
A. Cust.
ZermattWithout guides, and with two porters.
111July 29J. Hazel.
W. F. Loverell.
ZermattGuides—P. Maquignaz and F. Zuber.
112July 30Eug. DacquéZermattGuides—Borren (Bohren?) and Platter (?).
113Aug. 3-4F. Corbett.
M. Courtenay.
ZermattGuides—F. Burgener, P. Taugwalder fils, and J. Taugwalder.
114Aug. 3-4P. A. Singer.
P. A. Singer.
ZermattGuides—J. Imboden, Jos. Perrn, P. Perrn, and F. Perrn (porter).
115Aug. 6-7D. E. CardinalZermattGuides—Pierre Carrel and Louis Carrel.
116Aug. 7F. Reiners.
M. Haushofer.
ZermattGuides—P. and J. Knubel.
117Aug. 8-9H. de SaussureZermattGuides—A. Burgener and J. Knubel.
118Aug. 8-9W. CookeZermattGuides—Louis Carrel and Pierre Carrel.
119Aug. 8-9J. J. BischoffZermattGuides—J. Petrus, P. T. Truffer, and another.
120Aug. 9Joseph SeilerZermattGuides— — Lauber and ? An one day ascent.
121Aug. 9-10W. J. Whelpdale.
C. Weightmann.
ZermattGuides—J. M. Lochmatter, A. Ritz, and Jos. Brantschen as porter.
122Aug. 10P. WatsonZermattGuides—Alex. Burgener and B. Venetz.
123Aug. 12S. Waller.
G. Fitzgerald.
ZermattGuides—J. M. Lochmatter and J. Lauber.
124Aug. 12H. Meyer.
C. Estertag.
ZermattGuides—Jos. Brantschen, P. J. Knubel, and Jos. Taugwalder.
125Aug. 12J. Jackson.
T. H. Kitson.
ZermattGuides—Christian and Ulrich Almer. Ascent in one day.
126Aug. 12Jos. NantermodZermattGuides—A. Pollinger and B. Andenmatten.
127Aug. 14C. E. Mathews.
F. Morshead.
ZermattGuides—M. Anderegg and ? Ascent made in one day.
128(?)— Dent.ZermattGuide—Alex. Burgener.
129Aug. 28-29G. W. Prothero.Zermatt to BreilGuide—J. A. Carrel.
1877.
130Aug. 4O. Boenaud.
G. Mermod.
L. Mermod.
ZermattGuides—No information.
131Aug. 13-14Q. Sella.
L. Biraghi.
Zermatt to BreilGuides—J. A. Carrel, — Imseng, J. B. Carrel, Louis Carrel, Jos. and Vict. Maquignaz, etc. etc.
132Aug. 19W. H. Grenfell.
J. H. A. Peebles.
BreilGuides— — Imseng and ?
133Aug. 20W. PenhallZermattGuides—Jos. Imboden and P. Taugwalder fils.
134Aug. 24-25G. FitzgeraldZermattGuides—J. M. Lochmatter and Joseph Lauber.
135Aug. 29J. A. CooperZermattGuides—Alex and Alois Burgener.
136Aug. 30J. D. GriffithsZermattGuides—Basile Andenmatten and ?
137Aug. 30J. F. YearsleyZermattGuides—F. Burgener, P. Andenmatten, and (porter) — Blumenthal.
138Aug. 30-31J. C. LemanZermattGuides— — Pollinger and ?
139Aug. 30-31T. de Cambray DignyZermatt to BreilGuides—J. A. Carrel and Henri Séraphin.
140Sept. 4J. FreitschkeZermattGuide—Basile Andenmatten.
141Sept. 4-5H. LoschgeZermatt to BreilGuides—Alex. Burgener and a Tyrol guide.
142Sept. 6-7J. NérotBreil to ZermattGuides—J. A. Carrel, a Chamounix guide, and a porter.
1878.
143?T. JoseZermattGuides—J. M. Lochmatter, P. Knubel, and Pierre Truffer.
144Sept. 7Carl HeckeZermattGuide—Basile Andenmatten.
145Sept. 9Jules SeilerZermattGuides—P. Knubel and Basile Andenmatten.
146Sept. 21Dr. MinnigerodeZermattGuides—J. M. Lochmatter and J. Taugwalder.
147Sept. 11-12C. J. ThompsonZermattGuides—J. A. Carrel and — Imseng.
1879.
148Aug. 12-13Dr. Lüscher.
Prof. Schiess.
Up Breil side and down Zermatt side.Guides—J. M. Lochmatter, Jos. Brantschen, and Petryson (Evolena). Brantschen was left behind in the hut on the “cravate,” and died there.
149Aug. 13W. W. R. PowellZermattGuides—Peter Taugwalder fils and A. Imseng.
150Aug. 13-14C. E. FreemanBreil to ZermattGuides—J. A. Carrel and—Sopersac (Saas).
151Aug. 13-14A. E. Craven.
W. O. Moseley.
ZermattGuides—P. Rubi and C. Inabnit. Dr. Moseley lost his life in descending the mountain. See [Appendix D].
152Aug. 28-29C. E. B. WatsonZermatt to BreilGuides—P. Anderegg and A. Imboden.
153Aug. 30-Sept. 1G. H. SavageZermattGuides—Jos. Imboden and Franz Andermatten. Dr. Savage slept on the Hörnli Aug. 30; began the ascent by moonlight at a little before 2 A.M. on Sept. 1, reached the summit at 6.30 A.M., and returned to Zermatt by 12.30 P.M.
154Sept. 2-3A. F. MummeryZ’Mutt sideMr. Mummery was the first to ascend the Matterhorn from the side of the Z’Mutt Glacier. No details have been received.
155Sept. 2-3W. PenhallZ’Mutt sideGuides—Ferdinand Imseng and Louis Sorbrichen. Mr. Penhall also made his ascent upon the Z’Mutt side, but took a route more to the south than that followed by Mr. Mummery.
156Sept. 4-5B. WainewrightZermatt to BreilGuides—Jos. Imboden and Peter Sarbach.
157Sept. 4-5H. HoareZermattGuide—J. Anderegg and (porter) Jos. Chanton.
158Sept. 5-6J. BaumannZ’Mutt sideGuides—Petrus (Stalden) and Emile Rey. Mr. Mummery’s route was followed.
159?J. MaurerBreil to ZermattGuides—? No information.

The above table is known to be imperfect, and the Author will be obliged if correspondents will enable him to correct and extend it. Communications should be addressed to him Care of the Publisher.