The following dyes require two solutions, and produce a rapid change: (14) No. 1. Hydrosulphate of ammonia, 1 oz.; solution of potash, 3 drachms; distilled water, 1 oz.; mix. Apply this with a tooth-brush, and in about a quarter of an hour use.—No. 2. Nitrate of silver, 1 drachm; distilled water, 2 ozs. In all cases when two liquids are employed, the vessels into which they are poured, the brushes used for applying them, combs, etc., must be kept separate, otherwise the action of the dye upon the hair will be destroyed. Generally, the mordant is used first and the dye afterwards, but this order is reversed in the following “Instantaneous Hair Dye,” the recipe for making which is taken from the work by Mr. A. J. Cooley. (15) The white liquid, or “dye,” is a solution of nitrate of silver (1 to 8, 12 to 16). This is applied first. It is followed by the “mordant” (diluted). The latter is usually a mixture of hydrosulphuret of ammonia and distilled water, in nearly equal proportions. The colour of the hair, unaltered by the silver solution, instantly turns “brown” or “black,” according to the strength of the dye, when moistened with the hydrosulphuret. Then there are “vegetable dyes,” “vegeto-mineral dyes,” “animal dyes,” “pommade dyes,” and washes for producing red, auburn, golden, golden brown, and other shades of colour in the hair, but to go fully into this subject at the present moment, would be a little beside the object I have in view.
I might dismiss the subject of dyeing “false hair,” as it is called, with a few brief remarks, seeing that hairdressers rarely think it worth their while to perform the experiment; but, as it sometimes happens, new hair has to be added to that which is old and faded, to meet the requirements of economical customers, then “how to restore it” becomes a question. Of course, if the hair be impoverished, and assumes a “foxy” hue, it cannot be restored; but—what answers the purpose just as well—it can be dyed. There is only one other reason to be adduced, so far as I can tell, for dyeing “false hair,” and that is, when a tradesman has a quantity of red hair by him which is unsaleable, and, consequently, thinks proper to make it a more common colour. Whether red-haired people have generally “good crops,” or whether they darken their hair by the use of suitable preparations, I will not pretend to say; but certainly red hair is not very often in request. White, grey, auburn, flaxen, and several choice pale colours are too valuable to be interfered with, and ordinary colours are sufficiently plentiful without resorting to the use of dye.
To dye “false hair,” then, one of the lead and sulphur dyes mentioned in the preceding pages will answer every purpose, and its action may, in some instances, be promoted by boiling. Or any of the methods used in dyeing wool may be employed with good effect, for, in this connection, there is not much dissimilarity in hair and wool, and what will dye one will dye the other. In dyeing blacks, and dark colours, logwood forms one of the principal ingredients, and in conjunction with gallnuts it imparts a lustrous appearance. It should be used either hot or boiling, according to the depth of colour required. The accompanying formula is very effective. (16) Logwood, ¼ lb.; copperas (sulphate of iron), 1 oz.; nut galls, 1 oz.; and about 2 quarts of water. Boil for an hour, or longer according to the shade required. It is necessary to observe that the hair should be taken out of the dye-bath several times, and freely exposed to the air. This is called “airing,” and is done to allow the oxygen of the atmosphere to act upon the ingredients of the dye, and especially on the iron; as without this action of the air a good colour cannot be produced.
To possess a head of hair of the “golden” blonde, flaxen, or auburn hue, has been the desire of many ladies from time immemorial, and various expedients have been resorted to to produce the desired effect. At the present moment I do not intend to dilate upon this subject, but of all substances used for the purpose of bleaching or blanching hair, whether it be upon or off the head, nothing surpasses peroxide of hydrogen, respecting which Mr. Alfred H. Mason says:—“The best known application for peroxide of hydrogen is probably in its employment as an auricome for bleaching dark coloured hair, producing the yellow tint: for this purpose a 10-volume solution is used, the hair is saturated with it, and then exposed for two or three days, when the oxygen is liberated and the hair partly decolourised; if wanted in a shorter time, after immersion the hair is dried in a water-bath for a few hours, but the ultimate result is not so satisfactory. A London hairdresser produces white hair, and it is conjectured that he employs a 20–volume solution, with the addition of strong solution of ammonia, and so completely decolourises and bleaches the hair, at the same time rendering it practically destroyed excepting so long as it holds together.”
I think enough has been said upon dyeing, to enable the intelligent reader to overcome many of the difficulties that are sure to arise in the course of his business pursuits. The operation, whether it be performed upon the growing hair, or upon that which is faded and dead, must be carried out with carefulness and patience to ensure a satisfactory result. Men in all branches of science, have to perform one experiment after another before they can achieve success, and hairdressers, if they wish to be clever in their profession, must be content to do the same.
CHAPTER V.
The First Lesson in Wig-making, Weaving the Hair—“Once In,” Close or Ringlet Weft—“Twice In,” or Front Weft—“Thrice In,” Crop, or Wig Weft—“Fly” Weft, for Top rows—Making Ringlet Bunches—Tufts—Curls on Combs—Alexandra Curls.
I now approach the second and, perhaps, most important part of my work, viz., the art of Wig-making, and under that heading I intend dealing with the manufacture of Ringlets; “Tails,” Twists, or Switches; Plaits; Bandeaux; Fronts; Chignons; Scalpettes; Fillets; Scalps; Wigs; and, in short, everything which appertains to this branch of the business. Weaving is one of the first lessons which a boy has to learn in a hairdresser’s shop where “a knowledge of board-work is required.” No matter whether he is employed in a first-class establishment where superior work has to be done, or in a shop of less pretension, good weaving should be aimed at, and demands primary consideration. In some of the principal houses, professional weavers are engaged, who take the hair home with them, and bring it back when completed, receiving so much per yard for their labour, the price being regulated by the kind of weft made. This practice is generally pursued, for assistants have not much time or inclination to weave, their services being more valuable, so this operation is confided to other and less skilful hands; but whoever does it, or wherever it is done, excellence should always be aimed at.
Every hairdresser is more or less acquainted with the weaving-frame, therefore I need not give particular instructions in reference thereto. Besides, the accompanying illustration indicates nearly all that I would say about it.