Fig. 1.
From the above it will be seen that the hair to be woven is placed in the brushes which lie upon the table; the roots allowed to project a little, and convenient to the workman’s hand. The three “strings” as they are sometimes called, are in reality silk, one skein of weaving-silk being wound round each groove of the weaving-peg. The silk can be had either fine, medium, or coarse, according to the taste or requirement of the user. A tack is generally driven into the other peg (to which the “silks,” by means of a loop, are attached) and around it the weft is wound as it increases in quantity, or occasion may demand. When the “frame” is in position, all the silks ought to be of an equal degree of tension—neither too tight nor yet too slack; and a “jockey” should be provided in the event of its being wanted. Do not bear heavily upon the silks in a clumsy manner; avoid weaving too much in one place, and as the weft lengthens, work higher up, towards the weaving peg. By observing these rules you may escape the annoyance of the silks breaking—a vexatious mishap, which sometimes necessitates undoing that which is done, and re-weaving it. Should a silk break, however, you must tie it close to the last weft, but there is a particular way of fastening which can easily be shown but is awkward to describe.
Fig. 2.
“Once In” weft, which has several designations, and is also indicated by the letter N, is chiefly used when a moderate quantity of hair is required to be put together in a small compass. It is employed for “top-rows,” “bunches” or “tufts,” “twists” or “tails,” plaits, chignons, etc. To enable the reader more easily to comprehend the modus operandi, I will for the sake of convenience number the silks 1, 2, 3, beginning at the bottom. On the next page an illustration of the weft is given, to do which proceed as follows. Draw out a weft and hold it firmly between the thumb and finger of the left hand. Also, gather the silks together as indicated in Fig. [1], and with the index finger of the right hand push the roots between 1 and 2, and draw them towards you between 2 and 3. Turn the root over the top silk; draw it between 3 and 2; pass it under 1 and 2, drawing it through 3 and 2 again. Finally, turn the roots over the top and draw them between the two lower silks. Then hold the longest portion of the hair with the thumb and finger of the left hand, firmly hold the roots in a similar manner with the right, and draw them up as close, i.e., as short as possible to the silks, at the same time sliding the weft down to its destination, as shown in the first engraving. Push up close with the thumb and finger of the right hand, and, should the hair be stubborn, it will be necessary to use the “jockey,” of which I spoke before. This procedure appears somewhat difficult to the uninitiated, no doubt; but I think that persons in the trade will find it tolerably easy. If properly executed, the work will be regular and smooth—not “gouty,” as it sometimes appears when done by a careless person, but firm and compact. This kind of weft, or, indeed, any kind of weft, can be made coarse or fine, according to the purpose for which it is intended; but however thick or thin it may be, the work must be uniform and evenly set.
Fig. 3.
“Twice In,” or Front Weft (Fig. [3]), somewhat resembles, when the silks are open, the letter M, and to do this properly the weaving has to be increased so as to keep the wefts farther apart, and withal, firm. Should the weft be loosely done, it will be unpleasant to sew up, and the job when completed is not likely to be durable or satisfactory.
Follow the directions previously given, until you come to “drawing it through 3 and 2 again.” Having done this, continue as follows:—Pass it under 1 and 2, draw it through 3 and 2, turn it over the top, and end as before by bringing the roots through (or between) the lower silks.