Board-Work; or the Art of Wig-making, Etc. / Designed For the Use of Hairdressers and Especially of Young Men in the Trade. To Which Is Added Remarks Upon Razors, Razor-sharpening, Razor Strops, & Miscellaneous Recipes, Specially Selected.

by Edwin Creer

This kind of weft can be executed by an expert both rapidly and well, but perhaps a yard an hour would be considered satisfactory, especially if it were found perfect when completed.

“Thrice In,” Crop, or Wig Weft, should be very finely made, taking about six or eight hairs at a time to make a weft, depending of course on the quality of the hair used. Each weft should be tolerably wide apart, and firmly woven, if durability in a wig be required. When it is remembered that twenty or thirty yards are wanted in the manufacture of a gentleman’s wig, my reason for saying that the wefts should be fine and well-set must be apparent, for were it otherwise, the article would be heavy and uncomfortable to the wearer. Lightness ought never to be lost sight of in matters of this description, neither should strength and durability be forgotten. Bearing these instructions in mind then, proceed as though you were going to make “Front weft” but giving the hair a turn or two more, and end by drawing the roots through between the lower silks. Nimble fingers can do this kind of weft in a very expeditious manner, and I have heard of regular weavers making about three yards of wig weft in an hour—so much for constant practice.

“Fly” weft, for top rows, lies very close and compact; the roots fly apart or separate from the other portion of the hair, and they are either to be removed by the scissors, or else pressed downwards with hot pinching-irons previous to cutting down the weft. Indeed, it would be advantageous to “pinch” all pieces of close weft, where flatness and neatness are desired. “Fly” weft covers work very nicely; it should always be finely done and pushed up close. It is made the same way as “once in,” but with this exception, namely,—instead of drawing the roots “between the two lower silks” at the last movement, draw them again through the top ones. The roots will stand out or “fly” in an upward direction, and it may be necessary to use a “jockey.” By preference, press the roots with hot irons instead of cutting them off, for a weft or two might come out in wear, and then, to say the least, it would look unsightly, and jeopardise the rest.

I shall have occasion to refer again to weaving, but enough has been said for the present.

“Ringlet bunches” applies chiefly to side curls made of ringlet hair, irrespective of the length of hair, or quantity. They can be sewn up close, showing a back as well as front; with all the weft concealed except that upon the top, or in diamond shaped-openings, as shown in Fig. [4].

Fig. 4.

The illustration represents one of a pair of “bunches” made with three-quarters of an ounce of fourteen-inch ringlet hair. To begin then: separate the hair, putting the curls which turn one way together, and do the same with the others. All curls which come from the hair-merchant turn both right and left—two ringlets to one lock of hair. In making up either, always remember that the curls should be so arranged as to “turn to the face,” for if you do not attend to this at the beginning, the curl is not likely to form or droop properly, and there will most likely be a “cramp” necessitating its being rolled up again and heat applied. With new work this is best avoided, and by attention to the instructions the curls will be made “right and left” as they always ought to be. Next weigh the hair, putting an equal quantity into each scale. Tie up each lot; card it properly, and it will assume almost of itself, or with a very little help, a curl. Now you have two curls, tied at the roots, and inclining one to the right and the other to the left. Take one of them, place it in the brushes, and weave (see Fig. [2]); when woven, comb it out carefully while on the frame, and form several ringlets all turning the same way. Cut the middle silk six or eight inches from the weft, tie it to the others, and fasten off securely. Now weave the other tress, making the weft to correspond, so as to resemble the first piece as much as possible, in every respect; the curls of course being all turned in a reverse direction. Fasten off and cut down as before. You have now the weft for a pair of curls, and it has to be sewn up. Take one of the pieces, and double it, pressing the fold with your thumb and finger so as to temporarily mark it. This will give the centre of the piece. Fold one of these halves into three (so as to get at the width to make them) and then let the top one go loose. You are now holding between the thumb and finger of the left hand two rows of weft. Sew the end to the adjoining row with silk specially made for trade use, and the stitches are all to be in one spot. Then sew at a proper distance again and again in the same manner, and this will complete the two lower rows of weft. Take up another row, so arranging as to bring the stitches exactly in the centre of the “diamond” until you get to the end of that row. Do the same with any other rows until completed. Pull into form with the thumb and finger; slightly damp the weft, and press into shape with warm pinching-irons. The other bunch, of course, is to be made to match. If intended for stock they had better be attached with the needle and silk, so as to keep the “bunches” together, otherwise they will get mixed and cause confusion.

I must here observe that the experienced eye will notice a slight difference between the letterpress description and the illustration. I did not perceive the error until too late, but for the sake of accuracy I think it necessary to draw attention to it. The weft as shown in the engraving passes from bottom to top and vice versâ, whereas in the description it is in rows—one above the other. The artist has in the main given the design correctly enough, but the modus operandi by which it is produced is not so clearly indicated as I would desire.

Sometimes the weft is sewn up close, and that is more particularly the case when space is taken into consideration. If the work has to cover a rather large surface, it is best to sew it up in diamond shapes, but if it is to be condensed, then the wefts should be fine, close, and made up in as compact a manner as possible. Take, for instance, another lot of hair, the same in weight and length as the preceding. Observe the instructions given concerning its division, and weave as before. Measure off as previously described, and supposing that you allow for six rows of weft, proceed as follows:—Fold back one over and above the other, and securely stitch the end by way of a commencement. Push the needle towards you through the centre of the lower row of weft, and from you through the upper row of weft. Avoid sewing “over and over.” Keep all the stitches small, and the sewing-silk is not to be doubled. Having worked in this way from end to end, take another row of weft, and put in position over the lower row. Sew it as before described, and so on until the whole is completed. The weft will be seen at the back, occupying, when made up, about half the depth required in Fig. [4]. The worker must be particular in keeping the rows of weft straight and flat, which he can easily do with attention and the proper use of his thumb and finger. I say “finger,” because curled hair should never be held in the hand, for the warmth of the hand is likely to cramp or weaken the curl. Comb out, press, and dress as before described. Another way, so as to hide the weft altogether, excepting the top row, can be done when required. Take a similar lot of hair, and weave it. Commence sewing up as before, and when the two rows are done, instead of turning the weft backwards and forwards so as to show the work, turn it round and round in order to conceal it, still sewing-up flat as previously described.