Tufts of hair are side pieces or curls, and the weft is wound round a side comb instead of being sewn upon it, as will presently be mentioned. The word “tuft” may be applied to almost any small piece of postiche hair, whether it be upon a comb or a hair-pin, as “pin-curls” are made. I have seldom heard the designation of “tuft” applied to any piece of hair in a London shop, though I have known it to be common in some parts of the country, therefore it may be taken to be a provincial more than a common term used in the trade. Tufts, then, can be made of any length and thickness, depending entirely upon the use for which they are intended. Two tufts, i.e., two bunches of lightly-formed ringlet curls, might be employed in a lady’s coiffure with considerable advantage. They could be placed behind the ears, or so arranged near the tie (or knot) as to form a pretty cache-peigne, while “pin-curls” could be put wherever fancy might direct. To make the tufts, take fine weft, and side combs with rather open teeth. Arrange both hair and combs for the right and left sides. Fasten the weft to that part of the comb which is intended to go nearest the forehead, and let the hair hang towards the face. Having secured the weft with needle and silk, cut the silk off, leaving only the weft upon the comb. Then commence winding up the weft around the back of the comb, keeping it firm, and allowing one row of weft to go between each tooth. Each layer of weft conceals that which precedes it, and the weft should all be used up before reaching the top. About two-thirds of the back of the comb might be covered, and when this is reached finish off with the needle. The hair will be found in a rather rough condition, but that does not much signify to a patient workman. It will be necessary to get some one to hold it (which must be done with both hands, to prevent any undue strain upon the comb) while you disentangle the hair, turning the curl over the work on the back of the comb. Put it on a block, press the work with warm irons, and dress out in the form required. “Pin-curls” are simply pieces of weft of short curled hair, and made up after the manner just described.
Fig. 5.
Curls on combs, when nicely made, are very effective, being intended to wear at the sides. Tortoise-shell combs should be used, rather open teeth, and “grailed,” of a pliable quality, and those known in the trade as “rights” and “lefts” I have always found to be the best for this kind of work. Divide, and prepare the hair as in the previous instances. Weave one row of “fly weft” out of each piece, and this should be as long as the fine teeth of the comb extend. Begin and finish this weft in a secure manner, and let each piece be distinct from the other. Pinch, and cut down. Weave the other two pieces in the ordinary way, beginning and finishing off each one separately. Comb out, pinch, and cut down. You have now four distinct pieces of weft, a long and a short, fine piece for each comb. Take the longest piece of weft and fold it into two, three, or four lengths (as the case may be), each length being at least a quarter of an inch shorter than the fine-toothed part of the comb. Sew it up close, because, in this instance, the work has to be “condensed.” You cannot make the weft too flat, and, of course, the weft is to lie upon the comb. Comb out and pinch. Take up the comb, say, for the right side, and the “fly” weft for that side also. Hold the curls drooping in your left hand, and the comb (the concave part uppermost) in your right. Pass the teeth of the comb through the hair nearest the weft, and then pull it gently into its place. Take your needle and silk and, as needle-women say, “fasten on.” This part of the job is to be done carefully, taking one stitch to each tooth (the weft being down towards the points), the reason for this is to avoid breaking the teeth. Bear in mind to make the stitches loose, otherwise the weft will not fit into its right position close to the top of the comb; but if they are too slack the work will not keep in its place at all. This important point, like many others, can only be gained by observation and practice. The “fly” weft, remember, is in the concave or hollow part of the comb, while the “twice in” weft is to be on the convex, or upper part. Take this part, then and put it into its place. Incline it towards the points to allow the needle to pass through easily. Fasten on, and make a stitch to every tooth as before. Push it up close to the “top” row, and with two or three small stitches taken at random connect the whole together. Pursue the same plan with respect to the one intended for the opposite side, when, of course, they will form a pair. Comb out, press with curling irons, and arrange. I may say, inter alia, that while the hair is in a rough, dishevelled state, a little—only a little—of the very best olive oil, nicely perfumed, should be applied. It facilitates the action of the comb, renders the hair easier to dress, and adds a gloss to it which, if not overdone, heightens the effect. Pomade of any kind should not be used to curled, or, indeed, to any kind of “false” hair. My reason for saying so is, that it tends to “clog” the hair, does not impart such a fine gloss, and causes it sooner to become sticky.
“Alexandra curls” form a very pretty addition to the coiffure. The curl or curls are occasionally made with a portion of the back hair set apart for the purpose, but it sometimes happens that there is not sufficient in quantity or length, or that it will not retain the curl, and then the necessity arises for artificial aid. The long ringlet curls here represented, were named after Her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales, and for a great length of time remained in fashion. Sometimes two or more are worn, and in that case, they would be so disposed as to fall in front and behind the shoulder. They add a charm to the coiffure, and impart a nice finish to the whole. They are made as follows:—Take three-quarters of an ounce of eighteen-inch hair, or an ounce of twenty-inch hair, and so on in proportion according to the length. The hair must be specially prepared for the purpose, otherwise the curl will be too heavy, and “break” towards the top. To prepare the hair for Alexandra curls take, say, half an ounce of twenty-inch, and a like quantity of twelve-inch hair, curled. Card and mix the two lengths together, which, if properly done, will form a long curl, and light at the bottom as it should be. But Messrs. R. Hovenden and Sons, as well as other hair merchants, keep “taper curled hair for Alexandra curls” in stock, of divers lengths and shades of colour, and it is much better to obtain the hair already manipulated, than to do it oneself. The mode of making these curls is similar to that adopted for making hair-twists, and fully described in the next chapter. Having been sewn up, the hair must be carefully combed out, pinched at the top where the work is, and dressed. A long stick, termed a “curl-stick,” is generally used for the latter purpose; the hair being adroitly put round it (commencing at the top, not at the bottom) and brushed; the stick is then withdrawn and the curls remain as shown on the previous page.
1. Spanish Coil Chignon. 2. Beatrice Chignon. 3. Straight Hair Bandeau. 4. Cable Twists, for making the Spanish Coil Chignon, &c.
CHAPTER VI.
Making Twists, “Tails,” or Switches—Back and Side Plaits—Chignon Universel—The Zephyr Coiffure—Semi-waved Curled Chignon—A Novel Chignon—Of Chignons in general.
