Twists, “Tails” or Switches are made first into sections or stems, and two, three, four, or five, are required to form a complete twist, or “tail.” The word “tail” is used more as a trade term than anything else, although I have seen it written upon tickets attached to long pieces of hair, exposed for sale in hairdressers’ shop-windows. It is not by any means an elegant way to indicate the article, and “torsade” or “twist,” is, to my thinking, preferable. The number of stems employed is, generally, three, and they may be long or short, according to the length of hair; the purpose for which the article is designed; and last, but not least, the price. And here, again, the price, as well as the style of manufacture, admits of great variety. A twist can be made to sell for pounds, or shillings, according to the colour, length, thickness, quality, and workmanship. These are matters with which persons engaged in the trade are well acquainted, and I need not further refer to them.
Fig. 6.
Here is the method of making a twist. Take two ounces of twenty-inch straight hair, and divide into three parts, but one part is to be thicker than either of the other two, so as to allow for a top row, in addition, being made from it. Having done this, tie each lot, temporarily, so as to keep it intact. Fix the weaving frame, and three silks, as on previous occasions. Put the thickest portion into the brushes, and weave a very fine top row of “once-in” weft, about three and a-half inches in length. This is not to be cut down, but go on weaving the remaining portion of the tress of hair; the only difference being that it is to be coarser. The weaving should be graduated, as it were, so as to avoid an abrupt thickness of the weft, for it would, doubtless, spoil the appearance of the work. Plait up in three, and twist the weft round the weaving peg. Leave a space of about four or five inches, and then resume. Commence with a very fine weft, and weave it in the usual manner, taking care to secure it firmly to the silks by a little extra-close weaving. There is a special way of doing this which an expert can easily show, but it is difficult here to describe. Another way of proceeding is to press the first portion with warm irons, cut down, and then begin again, of course without making another top row. Weave the third and remaining tress in the same way, and the work then is ready for sewing up.
Fig. 7.
To sew up, take a rather short but plain weaving peg, and bore a hole in it about five or six inches from the top. Through this hole pass a stout wire, bend it down to keep it in its place, and form a hook at the bottom; turn the other part of the wire in a corresponding direction, but leaving a piece standing out to form a handle. If this is designed properly, it can easily be turned round and round without becoming detached from its position. Take a piece of black tape, Russian cord, or some other suitable material, about the length of the weft; tie a knot at top and fix it to the wire hook. Commence about an inch from the bottom, by sewing the thick end of the weft to the lower part, and having done so, break off the silk. Begin, then, turning the handle of the wire above described; this will cause the tape or cord to twist, and when sufficiently twisted, it will be proper to roll the weft upon it. Having done so for a little distance, turn the wire again, so as to keep it firm; continue this till the end of the weft is reached, and then fasten off. (See the accompanying illustration of one of the stems, Fig 6.)
It will be necessary to observe that each row of weft should lie close to and above the preceding row, and when there is much weft to be rolled or twisted up it ought to be stitched in several places. Now, having completely made two of the stems, make the third one, i.e., the one with the top row attached. Sew this up as before instructed until you come to the top row, when stop. Take the other two stems, and place the free ends of the tape, cord, or whatever may be the material used, with that which you are now working, and stitch them all together. Having done so, begin sewing the top row, neatly, and well, but having started it, take sufficient Russian cord to make a loop, put it in its place, cover all with the top row, and finish off securely. Each stem is to be pinched separately, and pinched again when completed. (Fig. [7].)
These twists are exceedingly useful, and if well-made, with hair of good quality and length, they can be applied to a number of purposes in connection with the coiffure. They may be twisted up with the back hair, made into a plait or plaits, used as a solid twist or a light torsade for a coronet, or back hair dressing. Speaking of a torsade, the following instructions, taken from “Lessons in Hairdressing,” will doubtless prove acceptable. That which I am about to describe is known by the names of Torsade Dondel, Torsade Repoussée, Torsade Gouffrée. It is made “with a long thin strand of hair, and is hollow when completed; consequently, where lightness is required, two or three of these may be introduced with charming effect. Proceed to make it in the following manner:—Take a piece of hair from twenty-four to thirty inches long, and separate a thin strand, which afterwards serves as a ‘draw.’ This put on one side till wanted. Divide the hair into two equal parts, and friz well upon the inner side, at the same time spreading out the hair so as to make it wide and flat. It may then be compared (for further illustrating my instructions) to a long and somewhat wide strip of cardboard. Hold the end in your left hand, and turn upon the thumb of the right hand, which, for the purpose, should be placed near to the top, or roots. Having given it a bend, it then forms a ‘hollow,’ which is to be so twisted upon itself, and in a spiral direction to the end. Then either pin down temporarily or get the lady to hold it. Proceed in the same manner with the second portion. Having done so, take one end in each hand and twist both together, being particular to pass that held by the left hand over that held by the right. Take then the little strand of hair, and pass it round the torsade in such a manner that it falls into every second space. Hold the end firmly, and push up the frizzed twist; fasten off, and place in position.”
