Fig. 8.
It will be seen that when neatly done the whole forms a hollow and “puffed up” twist, light in construction, full in appearance, and very suitable for a coronet or as an embellishment to the chignon.
In the hairdressing business there are innumerable changes of fashion, while the various requirements of different individuals continually make demands upon the practical knowledge of those who carry on the trade. Some articles that I have spoken of, and others to which I shall have occasion to refer, are “not in fashion,” but there is an occasional demand for something or another that would puzzle many who profess to know how to make almost everything. It is the duty of a hairdresser to assist nature in matters appertaining to the chevelure, for thin locks have to be supplemented by artificial aid, and bald heads not unfrequently require to be covered. It is not at all times pride and vanity that causes people to resort to the use of “false hair,” as it is termed, any more than it is pride and vanity which compels some folk to use spectacles, wear false teeth, or have recourse to surgical mechanicians for their especial aid and comfort. I could laugh at the remarks occasionally given expression to, for “goody-goody” people seem inclined to condemn in others that which they can dispense with themselves.
To resume. A back plait with a flat top can be made from any quantity or length of hair. It may be wide or narrow as circumstances require, and although the twist before described is in general requisition, yet there are occasions when a flat top is most convenient and suitable. Take half-an-ounce of twenty-inch hair, and two ounces of eighteen. Close, or “once in” weft, throughout. Weave the long hair moderately fine for the top row, or rows, and the eighteen-inch hair should be woven rather coarse, but uniform from beginning to end. There should not be a “break,” for all the weft must be in one piece. Pinch, temporarily plait in “threes,” and cut down. Decide upon the width the plait is to be made, and sew up firm and regular.
Side Plaits are made with sixteen or eighteen inch hair, after the manner of closely-sewn ringlet bunches; two or three loops are attached to each bunch through which a piece of wide galloon or ribbon is passed. This serves to fasten them to the head, and as they are made to slide, the width apart can be adjusted according to the discretion of the wearer. I have also made side plaits on combs, after the method adopted for making curls on combs, leaving the ends of the plaits to be fixed by the wearer, or by “tacking” them to the combs after being plaited. The ends of these side plaits should be securely fastened by means of black thread, and the whole neatly covered with a piece of ribbon.
Concerning the plaiting of hair, the reader is referred to “Lessons in Hairdressing,” wherein copious instructions are given.
Fig. 9.
The “Chignon Universel,” as it is called, is a clever arrangement for making good a deficiency in the back hair; it is most convenient, and unmistakably “defies detection.” To be made with smooth hair on the top, with the underneath hair either créolé, or plain. If fulness be desired the former plan is most expedient, or else long frizzettes should be introduced. But much depends upon the length and thickness of the hair and the way it is going to be arranged. To manufacture the Chignon Universel proceed as follows:—Take half an ounce of twenty-two inch hair, and having previously selected a comb, weave sufficient “fly” weft to make a top row, pinch, securely fasten off, and cut down. Then take two ounces of twenty-inch hair, which is to be woven rather coarse, and I need scarcely add, close, or “once in” weft; the object being to get as much hair as possible into the smallest compass. Sew up as though you were going to make an ordinary back plait according to the instructions previously given. Pinch, and make it as flat as you can. Cover the top of the comb with a piece of strong net, such as is used in wig-making, and do all the sewing on the front part of it, so that when finished it shall present a neat appearance, as shown in the illustration.[[5]] Securely stitch the piece made with the twenty-inch hair to the net, at the top part of the comb, and in such a way that it lies flat. Then take the piece of “fly” weft, and (putting the roots underneath) sew it on the top, so as to cover all. Press, and comb out the hair. When completed, the work ought to look as compact and pretty as it does in the wood-cut annexed.
Ability comes with practice, and as I am writing for the benefit of those who desire to improve, I would just hint that they need not be afraid of doing their work too well. At the outset inferior productions might reasonably be expected, but, as the apprentice or improver advances, better work should be forthcoming. There is an old saying that “practice makes perfect,” and that is exemplified in numberless instances every day.