Fig. 19.
To make one as indicated above, with which long straight hair is associated, take ten, twelve or more inches of galloon (according to the size decided upon), double it together, and sew firmly at the ends, leaving, say, a quarter of an inch free. Find the centre of the galloon, tack it by means of “points” to the forehead portion of a clean wig-block, and affix the ends in a similar way; your object being to make a “mount” about three inches deep in the centre, four, five, or six inches long, and tapering off at the sides. The galloon ends, of which I spoke just now, must be at the top, so that when taken off the block only a fine seam is noticeable. Having attended to this, the mount has to be “basted” and formed. The one I am describing is of a diamond shape, and the basting stitches are to be at the bottom, top, and sides. Drive a point into the centre of the block an inch and a half below where you purpose the lower part of the mount to be. Use stout cotton, single, tie a knot at the end of it, and attach to the “point”; take a firm stitch through the galloon and draw it gently down into position. Twist the cotton round and round the “point,” finishing with a loop made with the finger; then take one or more similar stitches upon each side terminating in a like way. Give the “point” a tap or two with the hammer, bend it down, and knock the head of it into the block. Proceed with the top in a like fashion, and then the ends, or sides. You have now made a step towards “mounting,” and that which I have described is not by any means difficult of execution.
It must be borne in mind that I am not addressing myself to novices, but to young men who, at all events, have some knowledge of the trade, and I presume they will not experience much trouble in getting a practical illustration from a friend should they require it. To proceed; take the block in your lap, and commence sewing on the net. Begin on the right-hand side of the inside edge of the bottom galloon, the stitches being moderately close together. Having reached the left-hand corner, turn the block round, and commence sewing in the same manner to the inside edge of the top piece of galloon. While all this is being done pull the net tight, keep it smooth and avoid “puckering,” cut away the superfluous net, but—and this is important—the edge of the net which is stitched to the mount ought to well cover two-thirds of the galloon. Now you have both galloon and net upon the block, and the work ought to be strong and secure. A spring, rubbed or filed down, and covered as before described, is to be placed in the centre; but it must not overlap the mount, either at top or bottom.
About half an ounce of short, curled hair (or less, according to the size of the mount) and an equal quantity of sixteen or eighteen inch straight hair will, perhaps, be sufficient; but more can be added if desired. The hair has to be made up into rather fine front-weft or “twice-in.” The straight hair weft should also be fine, and equally divided; but the curled hair can be left all in one piece. Sew the straight hair on to the sides first; begin at the point (or end of the mount), and let the rows of weft be firm, regular, and at equal distances from each other. I need scarcely say that the straight hair has to be incorporated with the wearer’s own hair when it is dressed, and then two or three hair-pins will keep the “fringe” in place. That portion of the mount to be covered with straight hair will depend upon circumstances, of which you must be the judge. The curled hair has now to be sewn to the mount. “Fasten on securely,” as seamstresses would say, and sew along the bottom of the galloon, from right to left, taking about one stitch to every weft. Turn the block, and sew another row along the upper part of the galloon, being careful to cover the free edge of the net, which thus becomes stitched a second time by this operation. The rows of weft are sewn in a like manner until the mount is covered. When turning the weft see that it is done neatly where it joins the straight hair, so that no irregularity or ugly spaces are visible. The weft has now to be pressed (for which a special tool called a “pressing-iron” is used), and the hair properly arranged. Cut the basting stitches, pull them out from the mount, and examine your work. If the stitches are very small, the weft even, the mount a good shape, and the work unmistakably firm and secure, I should pronounce it to be satisfactory; but if there be imperfections in any of these respects, then follow the best advice it is possible to give, and, “Try, try, try again.”
Fig. 20.
This design shows a scalpette, intended to cover the top of the head, and, when it is worn, the straight hair should be tied, or twisted in with the natural hair at the back. A covering of this description is very useful when a bald place exists, or there is a thinness of the natural growth of the hair.
In making it, the following instructions should be observed: Upon a clean block, mark with a black lead pencil (in its proper position) the form and size of the mount wanted. Take a piece of galloon and commence by driving a point or two through it, somewhere about the temple. Keep it firm by means of points, as you proceed along the pencilled lines, until both ends of the galloon meet. Cut off, but leave sufficient length to take hold of with the thumb and finger. Pinch together, and with needle and silk sew tight and close, leaving short ends as before. I will suppose that you intend to put on a mount four inches deep, and five inches wide, in shape nearly square, the front (or lower galloon) being drawn down a little. You will have to put basting stitches at the four corners, and also in the centre to make it the desired form. Sew on a piece of galloon extending from left to right, an inch and a-half from the top, one spring in the middle, and others if necessary to keep the corners out. Cover with net, and the mount is complete. You now have an inch and a-half space for the back hair and two and a-half inches space for the front, the joinings taking place upon the piece of galloon affixed for the purpose. Sew on the straight hair first, and then the curled, observing the directions before given. About half an ounce of short curled hair will be sufficient for the one part, and three-quarters of an ounce of sixteen or eighteen-inch hair for the other. Fine weft; press, finish off, and a reference to the illustration[[11]] will show its arrangement.
A great many articles of this description are “knotted” instead of being woven, and it is simply mentioned here to enable me to say that I shall deal with that part of the subject by-and-bye.