Board-Work; or the Art of Wig-making, Etc. / Designed For the Use of Hairdressers and Especially of Young Men in the Trade. To Which Is Added Remarks Upon Razors, Razor-sharpening, Razor Strops, & Miscellaneous Recipes, Specially Selected.

by Edwin Creer

CHAPTER VIII.

The Changeability of Fashion—Bandeaux, Fronts, and Fillets—Plain Bandeaux—Waved Bandeaux, with Fringe—To Wave the Hair of Bandeaux—French (woven) Fronts—French (woven) Fronts, with Parting—Diamond-shaped and Wing Fronts—Temple-mounted Fronts—Fillets or Cauls.

Fashion is ever changing, and the fickle goddess does not seem to know her own mind for very long together. And this remark is as applicable to hairdressing as it is to dress, or, indeed, anything else with which the leaders of ton have to do. To coiffeurs nothing perhaps is more interesting than a perusal of old illustrated books, and to note the various styles of coiffure. Fifty years ago, when Felix displayed his talent in hairdressing, the front was distinguished by a cluster of curls, made with properly cut and tapered hair of about seven or eight inches in length, and these curls were designated “frizzed,” or “French curls.” Old hairdressers can remember the “French Fronts,” to which I shall merely allude. They were made upon wires, with full and round curls (though done with a thin layer of hair), and the roots as well as the points were woven in together. There would probably be five, six, or seven of these curls upon each side; but for an illustration of them I can only refer the reader to the fashions of bye-gone days. At the period to which I am referring (and long after), it was no uncommon thing to find in hairdressers’ shops a large stock of fronts and bands, and though they may never come into general use again, still, those who wish to be proficient in board-work, should learn how to make them. To be well-grounded in the rudiments of any trade is of the greatest importance, for all must have a beginning, and the more skilful work of the clever tradesman will surely follow after.

There used to be a good demand for French (woven) Ringlet Fronts, and being so light and pretty, the ingenious way of making them, I think, ought to be preserved.

Fig. 21.

The weaving frame, then, resembles that which was before shown, but has more silks upon it. The peg is specially made for this kind of work, and there are a number of grooves for the silks, but one with twelve spaces will perhaps answer every purpose. Wind the silks upon it in the usual way, and tie up in groups of three according to the customary mode. Let each knot (which forms a stop to the weft) be in a line, thus—⋮ and have nine of the silks placed in position as shown in the illustration.[^[12]] Take first a piece of straight hair of the same colour as the curls, and about twelve inches long, and draw out what is best described as a coarse weft. This has to be plaited, as it were, upon all the silks employed in making the “front.” Hold the root end between the thumb and finger of the left hand, having the long hair uppermost. Commence by placing it at the back of the lower silk, and draw it through. Then over two, under (or behind) three, over two and behind the top one. Continue in the same fashion downwards, but reversing the movement until the whole of the hair is worked up. Plait tight; but it can be made close and firm by pulling the hair as frequently as possible to get it into shape. (See the ends and centre of the next engraving.) Having thus worked the hair, finish off at the lower three silks by drawing the ends towards you, and leave it so for the present. Take three-quarters of an ounce, or an ounce of twelve-inch ringlet hair, and divide into two equal parts, bearing in mind that the curls have to be separated and classed together, and also that curls should always turn to the face, as I have repeatedly stated. Place the proper portion into the drawing brushes, and weave five inches of moderately fine close weft upon the three lower silks. Next make four inches and three-quarters of the same description of weft upon the three middle silks, leaving a quarter of an inch space between the end of the plait and the weft; the reason for doing so will presently appear. Now weave five inches of the same kind of weft upon the three top silks, and the end of each row must be regular. Draw off another coarse strand of the straight hair, and plait all the silks together as before. Three rows of weft are now to be done exactly the same, leaving the quarter of an inch space at the corresponding end; then take a third strand of straight hair and make a finishing plait as at the beginning. The whole length of the “front” should be eleven inches, including the plaited ends, and centre piece. The above illustration is so plain that no mistake can possibly arise if proper attention be given to the subject. Comb out the hair as each row is completed, and form into curls. Now warm a pair of pinching irons, press each section of the weft, and carefully remove with the scissors all superfluous ends and hairs. Cut the centre silk of each group of three, finish off securely and then cut down. I said just now that the reason for leaving the space at the ends of the middle row of weft would shortly appear, and you are now to take hold of those three silks and pull them. Do so at each end, the result will be to shorten the centre row; thus enabling you, with the help of springs, to form the mount as designed.[^[13]] Make two springs, file down the ends, cover with kid or parchment, and sew them up in narrow galloon. Stitch the sides nicely, and fix them to each row of weft by means of a needle and silk. The springs may be about two inches long, and, of course, must be put on carefully. Strings of galloon are to be affixed, and so far as the making is concerned, the job is finished.

Fig. 22.