Board-Work; or the Art of Wig-making, Etc. / Designed For the Use of Hairdressers and Especially of Young Men in the Trade. To Which Is Added Remarks Upon Razors, Razor-sharpening, Razor Strops, & Miscellaneous Recipes, Specially Selected.

by Edwin Creer

The pressing iron can now be used, the curls—be they many or few—arranged, a pair of side-combs placed in position if desired, and the front is finished, as above shown.

There are other fronts with ringlet curls beside those just described. For instance, there is a mounted front of a diamond shape, which is made to slide, technically called a “diamond” front. It is made as follows: cut off two pieces of galloon about eight or nine inches in length each. Sew the ends (through and through, not over and over) neat and firm; these are for the two sides. Place one of them upon a block, in the position it is intended to be worn. The ends of the galloon (where it has been sewn) must be uppermost at any place except a corner. Open the ends and hammer slightly, so as to make them lie as flat as possible. Take four points, and spread out the galloon in a diamond shape, so that it will be about two inches deep, and perhaps four inches long. Now take your needle and cotton, points, &c., and baste out in the required form; the upper and lower bastings (where the springs go) to be somewhat pointed; the ends are to be square, equal to the width of the galloon forming the strings. Make another mounting on the corresponding side of the block, and both must be alike in every particular. Upon the block (between the right and left sides of the mountings) a space of two inches or more should be left, because the wearer’s own hair must be seen when the curls are worn. Bear in mind this is to be a sliding front, and the lady will be able to adjust the curls to her own wishes or taste. Now, the two sides being in their proper positions, and firmly secured by means of the basting stitches, sew a piece of galloon on one side only from one end to the other; the reason for doing so will presently be given. Cut off sufficient galloon for the strings, and this must be long enough to encircle the head, leaving plenty to tie in a double bow as well. Find the centre of the galloon, and temporarily fasten it with a point between the mounts. One of these strings is to be continued along the mount, corresponding with that upon which a piece of galloon has been sewn, the remainder being fastened by means of a point in the neck. The other half is to be abruptly turned back over the crown, and temporarily secured to keep it out of the way. Measure off two springs, grind the ends, cover with narrow galloon as previously instructed, and fix in their respective places. Put on the net; sew it to the inner edges of the mount only, and to both sides of the centre galloons and springs. The mountings are now ready for the hair.

Take sufficient hair, say one ounce of twelve-inch ringlet, and divide it equally. Weave a top row first, and ordinary front weft with the remainder. Do the same with the second lot of hair. Remember what I have said before—“All curls should turn to the face.” Sew on the weft, beginning at the bottom of the lower galloon, turn the corners neatly; let the weft appear in regular rows, and, lastly, sew on the top row. Comb out the hair and curl it over the fingers in proper form before doing the other side, which, when done, is to be treated in a similar manner. Warm your pressing iron, divide the weft in conveniently small portions, and press carefully. Take the mountings off the block, and now I will give my reason for sewing on the first piece of galloon, namely, because this is the mounting intended to slide. Cut off another piece of galloon an inch longer than appears to be necessary. Turn in about half an inch at one end, and sew the corners securely to one of the ends of the mount. Neatly stitch the edge of this piece of galloon to the edge of that which is attached to the mount, but before fastening off, turn in the free end as you did at the beginning. Sew along the other edge of the galloon as before, and secure the stitches. Now there is a hollow space for the string to travel through, and a bodkin is the necessary instrument for leading it in the first instance. Replace the front upon the block, dress and arrange the curls as required.

Wing Fronts are made in a similar way, but instead of being of a diamond form they are shaped like birds’ wings; the narrow end, of course, towards the upper part of the head, and the broad part near the ears. Mounts of this shape are very pretty, the curls lie nicely together, and, furthermore, they are easy to wear.

Bandeaux, or as they are more generally termed, “bands,” embrace a variety of designs to suit different requirements. Some are made plain with a patent parting of silk or skin; others have net, gauze, or human hair foundations, and latterly a material called “Yak-hair” has been used, which answers the same purpose, and is less expensive. Then, again, there are bandeaux with waved hair or waved hair and “fringes,” while others have long hair attached for combing in with the natural hair at the back. Indeed, this branch of the business offers a wide field for the display of taste, judgment, and ability. The hair used to be “banded” and then secured at or near the end of the mount, and dressing “bands” and “fronts” in the days of my apprenticeship was a continual source of employment and profit. The hair, at the time I speak of, was generally worn smooth, oils and pomades were in request, and rough hairdressing, it was thought, showed want of skill on the part of the hairdresser. But styles are ever-changing, and what is approved to-day will, perhaps, be condemned to-morrow. From smooth hairdressing we come to that which is dry, wavy, frizzy and crisp, and I am disposed to think that ladies sometimes imagine a coiffure should present a rough appearance to obtain approval. This loose method of arranging the hair is to the advantage of bandeaux, and coverings for bald places, because the false piece can be more easily arranged by the wearer.

Fig. 26.

To make a plain bandeau, take a yard and a-half of galloon, measure ten inches from one of the ends but do not cut it off. Turn it back and give it two or three raps with the hammer so as to make a mark. Keep the galloon even and smooth, and turn back another ten inches at the other end; both of which are to be brought together. The ends are to be turned in, and stitched over and over. Double these sewn pieces exactly in the centre, and tap with the hammer again. Open out, and you will find that a mount of between nine and ten inches is begun. Now take a mounting block, which should be clean and smooth, and place the galloon thereon. The centre of the mount has already been found, and after opening it (say) two inches, temporarily fix by means of points in the centre of the block. There is no difficulty about this because a fine line marks the place, and I need scarcely say the mount should be on the block exactly as it is intended to be worn on the head. With the block in your lap (the face being turned inwards) take the galloon in each hand, pull tight, double one piece over the other, and drive a point through both at the back of the neck. Hammer it down firmly, and then fix the remainder of the galloon, which I need hardly say is intended for the strings, as you think proper, so long as they are out of your way. I will now suppose that you are going to make a three-inch silk or skin patent parting band, therefore you must commence with basting the lower galloon first, and then the top one, drawing it back at the same time, so as to give the necessary depth. Indeed, if you make it a rule to give a quarter of an inch more depth than the parting, it will be, I think, all the better. Next draw back the lower centre, and form a pretty curve, the object being to keep the galloon out of the way lest it be seen in the most critical part of your work, and, further, that the parting should lie upon the forehead both flat and close. Having done basting, the next thing is to put on the springs. Break two pieces of watch spring the proper length; the ends of which are to be rounded off and covered with kid or parchment, afterwards neatly enclosing the springs in galloon. They should have just sufficient bend to easily fit the head, and assist in holding the parting in position. A reference to the engraving will illustrate all that I have endeavoured to explain.[^[14]]

Having well secured the mount which, let me say, should always be tight and firm upon the block, take a piece of ribbon, exactly the width of the centre between the springs, and sew thereon, the object of this being to give a neat appearance to the band when off the block, and, also, to conceal the work in the parting which otherwise could be seen. The net should next be attached, as directed in previous instructions, and then the mount will be completed.