Board-Work; or the Art of Wig-making, Etc. / Designed For the Use of Hairdressers and Especially of Young Men in the Trade. To Which Is Added Remarks Upon Razors, Razor-sharpening, Razor Strops, & Miscellaneous Recipes, Specially Selected.

by Edwin Creer

Fig. 27.

In addition to the parting, take an ounce of the best hair (say) sixteen inches long (the hair in the parting being of the same length), and weave a top row. Weave the remainder of the hair in rather fine front weft, and then divide, marking the division, however, by merely tying a piece of string in the place. The parting should next be dealt with; turn in the edges as previously directed, “tacking” as you proceed, and finishing with the lower portion. Sew the parting in its proper position, beginning with the two corners in front; it will then be as well to sew it at the top, and afterwards the sides. The parting should be straight, and exactly in the centre; perfectly smooth, and not stretched or puckered in any direction. The weft must be sewn on next, but should there be a rather wide space between the parting and the top edge of the galloon, put in two or three rows of weft first. Sew the weft along the bottom and top edge of the galloon and then at regular intervals until one side is completed. Do the same with the other side, and, finally, put on the top row.

The number of rows will, of course, depend upon the quantity of weft, of which you must be the judge, and calculate accordingly. Press, tie the hair of each side together or loosely plait in three, leaving the wearer to arrange it when upon the head.

What I have already said is sufficient to show the learner how to make a “band” with a parting of either silk or skin, or any other similar substance. Indeed, when a “band” has to be produced for a very low price, it can be made without a patent parting at all, as the parting can be made to consist of weft only. To do this, the springs need not be so wide apart, and the intervening space is to be filled up with weft, sewn close, one row after the other, beginning at the bottom. If the weft is well done and fine, it will lie flat, then, with the comb, a parting should be made, and pressed into shape. True, the wearer cannot show the parting, but such work is designed for elderly ladies, and the cap border, or other head-gear hides it completely. Partings are generally used, however, and I merely allude to this very plain way of making a “band” to suit humble and, necessarily, economical customers.

For making a Waved Bandeau, with fringe, turn to the instructions for mounting already given, and notice the mount upon the block. A mount of a similar description is to be made, but without the arched piece of galloon in the centre, for the parting being of a transparent material, the skin of the head should be seen through it. Besides, a dark line of galloon just in the most conspicuous spot would be sadly out of order.

Proceed as follows: Take a clean block, and mark with a pencil the exact dimensions of the mount, in its proper place. Be very particular about this, because the pencilled lines you should strictly adhere to. These lines, then, having been made, commence by driving a point through the end of the galloon near the crown, and on your right side as the tracing faces you. Continue the galloon down to the angle upon the forehead where the spring goes, and fix with a point. Keep the galloon flat, and turn it towards the ear where it is also to be secured. Pass the galloon along the top, and when in the centre of the block (being mindful of the depth of the parting) drive in another point. For the other side continue the galloon as before, and end on the top of the block in a corresponding position to that where it begins. The mount should then resemble the illustration to which your attention is directed (Fig. [26]), but with this difference—the centre arched portion of the galloon is absent.

The galloon is now to be “basted,” and preceding instructions observed. The mount being tight and firm, the strings are to be neatly sewn on, fixed in the neck, and the long ends put out of the way as before. It is now seen that there is a gap in the centre, and unless some kind of stay is put at the lower part, the parting will, in all probability, soon get torn. To obviate this, it is usual to employ a material called “silk-worm gut,” which is securely fastened across the bottom, or nearly at the bottom, for the parting should be so arranged as to lie flat on the forehead—the closer it lies the better. Sometimes a white horse hair is used for the purpose, and occasionally white silk, but whatever the material, it should be strong and durable. It is usual, also, to put additional “stays” about an inch apart, right along the parting, for they are not seen upon the head, and much greater strength is given to the article. Indeed, when the parting is more than three inches deep it is absolutely necessary to do so.

Put on the springs as before, let them be narrow, and in this instance they may be covered with black tape, as the galloon upon which they will be sewn conceals them from view when off the block. Now attach the net, and the mounting is completed.

A mount, let me observe, should be accurately designed, and measurements taken from any convenient place upon the block must correspond, one side with the other. Indeed, where much board-work is done, it is a strong recommendation to be a good “mounter,” and a correct eye is not among the least of such a man’s qualifications. It matters not how well done the knotting, weaving, or sewing may be; should the mount be inexact, the work is faulty from the very commencement, and might result in the article being returned. This is best avoided. Therefore, make it a rule to “start fair” with your work, and, if slow, be sure, remembering at all times that “practice makes perfect,” and how important it is that strict attention should be paid to minute details.

The mount having been finished, the next thing is to put in a transparent parting, with a “fringe.” This “fringe” should be of short, curled hair, which can be arranged when the job is finished. In transparent partings generally there are no edges to turn up, like those made of silk or skin, and alluded to before. Commence by sewing the parting to the corner of the mount on your right hand first, finish off, and then attach it to the corresponding corner on the left side, keeping the line of parting exactly in the middle. It will then be proper to sew the top; see that it is firm, straight, and smooth, and conclude by stitching the sides. About the same length and quantity of hair will be required for this as was used in the previous one; therefore, weave a top row, divide the weft, and proceed according to the instructions already given. Sew the weft on in rows, beginning at the bottom; neatly and securely turn the corners; and, lastly, affix the top row. Press, and dress as required; take it off the block, draw out the basting stitches, and the work is done, unless you wish to give a waviness to the hair.