Fig. 28.
Of course the hair can be left straight if desired, but if waved (it need not be very strong), the effect is much more natural. Put the band on the block again, and the hair can be waved in either of the following ways:—(1) By plaiting. Slightly damp the hair, and make two or more three-plaits upon each side. Plait rather tight, and pinch with moderately warm irons, but only sufficient to remove the moisture, if any, and to fix the wave. This, perhaps, is the most simple and natural way of doing it. (2) With hair-pins. Divide the side-hair in two or three equal portions, so as to make the wave regular and uniform. Take a long hair-pin, and with the left hand hold it close to the roots of one of the pieces, keeping the prongs rather wide apart. Then, with the right hand, entwine the piece of hair in and out, as though forming with it any number of figures 8. Having come to the ends (or done as much as you consider necessary), push up close to the head of the pin, turning back one of the points to keep the hair well in place. Do the same with all; pinch with warm irons, and allow it to be quite cold before drawing out the pins. (3) Curling-irons are used also for waving the hair, but, although permissible when dressing a lady’s hair, I do not advise their use for work of this description. There are other methods of waving hair, as with string, card, wire, etc., but what I have described, if carefully done, will answer nearly all requirements.
Fig. 29.
Temple-Mounted Fronts.—Measure off twenty-three inches of galloon, double it, and stitch at the ends through and through. Shift the ends a little, so that they will come anywhere but where basting stitches are likely to be put. Now double the galloon again, tap it with the hammer, open it, and you will find that you have made two creases. Put these creases upon the line which marks the centre of the block, and fix them with points to about the depth of the parting. Take other points and bring the mount into shape. You will now require a rule, or tape measure, a pair of compasses, and a large double-threaded needle, to enable you to make correct measurements. You can measure from any convenient spot, but when the strings are on, they should be so adjusted that, when off the block and tightened, the mount will incline inwards both at top and bottom, thus proving that it will bind, or fit well to the head. The shape is well defined in the illustration,[[15]] and the places where basting stitches are to be put distinctly shown. Springs are made and fixed on the top about the width of the parting, the intervening space being filled up with a piece of ribbon. A spring is also placed on each side near the ear, so as to keep the mount well in shape, and the strings, as will be seen, are made to cross over from the bottom galloon to the top. The trained eye will perceive at a glance how comfortable this shaped mount is likely to be to the wearer.
Having sewn on the net, commencing, as usual, upon the inner edge of the lower galloon, the next thing is to put in the parting, which should be either skin or silk—but if transparent a deviation will have to be made as already explained. The same remark applies as to whether the hair should be knotted or woven. These matters must always be decided upon at first, when the mount is commenced. Take (say) 1¼ oz. of twelve-inch ringlet hair, and put the curls in two lots as usual. Weigh one parcel against the other, and balance evenly. Remember what I have said about the curls inclining to the face. Make a thin top row, comb out, and cut down. Weave the hair in fine front weft, and contrive to make it of a similar length for both sides. Commence sewing on at or near the string, and proceed as before instructed. In stitching on the weft be careful to well secure the net, and the spaces must be according to the length of the weft used—certainly they should not be so much as a quarter of an inch apart. Let both sides be uniform and alike in every respect. Press and dress as required, and retain the hair in position by means of side-combs. If, at the outset, it is decided to “knot” the hair, then the mount should be prepared accordingly, respecting which I have given instructions in another place.[[16]]
Fillets (or Cauls).—A fillet signifies a little band intended to tie about the hair; and a caul (probably a modification of cowl) intimates, in trade parlance, a net or some such covering for the head. But that which I am going to describe is probably unknown to many, although it was formerly adopted by elderly women instead of a wig. This can be accounted for in two or three ways. (1) Because at the time I speak of “fronts” were generally worn; (2) ladies’ wigs were heavy and expensive, and (3) a fillet or caul, being much cheaper, well answered the purpose. Indeed, where the necessity exists for wearing a head covering, through loss of hair, or other causes, perhaps a fillet would be most acceptable to many in want of some such assistance. Proceed as follows: Measure the head, and use a mounting-block about one inch larger in size. Put on any shaped mount you please so long as it is adapted to the purpose, and suits the requirement of the lady for whom it is intended. In place of strings use a piece of wide galloon which is neatly attached to the mount, and fits comfortably round the head. The galloon may be half an inch or more in width, or a mount can be made in the neck (extending from ear to ear) resembling that portion of a lady’s wig. Having the mount, springs, and wide galloon in position, you have next to obtain a silk net, and put it on to the block, covering the entire mount and neck-piece as well.[[17]] The meshes of the net should not be too open, because the weft has to be sewn upon a part of it. I need hardly observe that no portion of the net must be allowed to project over the lower edges of the galloon and mount. The hair is now to be divided as before; a top-row woven, and good front, or “twice-in” weft made. Bear in mind that instead of sewing it along the lower galloon, and turning at the parting and strings, it is now to be sewn from bottom to top; in other words—begin sewing on the weft where the wide galloon joins; let the hair incline or fall over the ear, and, as I said just now, sew the weft from bottom to top, turning each row upon the lower and upper galloon. The reason is, that as the meshes are much more open than in the ordinary description of net, the rows of weft ought to be shortened so as to give additional strength. Having finished the front part, attention must now be directed to the back, or rather that portion which fits in the neck and extends from ear to ear. Have ready (say) half an ounce of “Sevigny,” or “doll” hair. This is tight curled hair of about four or five inches in length—the same in fact as that used in making “fringes.” Weave very fine, and sew on to the wide galloon, turning at each end of it. The long and short hair will thus meet near the front of the ear, where the joining must be neat.
If the hair is to be worn either plain or wavy and banded, of course hair (say) of sixteen inches in length should be used, but if in curls, probably ten or twelve-inch hair will be sufficient. Dress as required. The short-curled hair (after the work is pressed) can be arranged in small ring curls, or in the manner of a close fringe.
Remember, I said that a block somewhat larger than the head was to be used, and the reason is plain. The fillet is sure to be large enough, and this will allow for shrinking; besides, there is to be an elastic spring put in the neck which must be done so as to grip or bind the head properly. If these details are carefully attended to, the fillet will fit “like a glove,” be a source of comfort to the wearer, and a credit to the maker. How an elastic spring is to be placed and held in position will appear in due course.