CHAPTER IX.
General Observations on the Manufacture of Partings and Crowns—Non-transparent Partings; Silk and Skin—Transparent Partings; Net, Gauze, Yak, and Human Hair Foundations—“The Genealogy of Implantation”—Knotting, and some remarks thereon—Single Knotting—Double Knotting.
Partings, no matter for what use they may be intended, are either transparent or opaque. The foundation of transparent partings is invariably net, gauze, yak hair, or human (white) hair, the two latter substances being specially adapted to the purpose. Indeed, anything that will enable the worker to imitate nature so closely as to defy detection, might be employed, if it be durable and impervious to the effects of perspiration—two points never to be overlooked. The great art of parting-making is to cause the joining (where it comes in contact with the forehead) to be so exquisitely well done, that it passes unnoticed even by a keen-sighted and critical observer. Now is a chance for some ingenious young man to make himself famous, as perfection is not yet reached, I venture to think in this respect. True, the “fringe” goes far to produce a natural appearance in those who are still young, but a “fringe” is out of place altogether upon the brow of a matronly dame, or attached to the parting of a gentleman’s wig; therefore I repeat there yet remains something to be done in the matter of partings, and probably a fortune awaits the lucky inventor. But there are professed patent parting makers, and, as a rule, it is most advisable to purchase this portion of the work ready made, or have it done to order. When convenient, especially if a hairdresser resides at a distance from London or certain provincial towns, it is expedient to keep a small stock of such goods in the house, for occasionally it happens that an order is wanted in a hurry. Most in request are partings of three, three and a-half and four inches deep, made with hair sixteen or eighteen inches long, and, I may add, common colours. Here then is a little “stock-in-trade” which is sure to come in useful. Should the reader, however, wish to make the parting himself, I will merely say that “foundations” of the usual length and width can be obtained through the usual trade channels, but I may hazard an opinion, which is, that very few hairdressers execute this kind of work themselves.
Non-transparent partings are made upon silk or skin, the latter consisting of a very thin skin upon white or pale-pink silk. I have known other substances used (more by way of an experiment than anything else) but the foundations named are, so far as I am aware, universally employed. Silk partings are the cheapest, skin partings and net partings come next, and so on, the price per inch being regulated according to width, foundation, length and quality of the hair, workmanship, &c.
It is worthy of observation that fronts, in years gone by, were almost universally worn by married women. “The first grey hair” gave the signal, and a visit to the hairdresser followed shortly after. His aid was invoked, and, if holding a good position in the trade, his design was to produce a front natural in appearance, and sufficiently open in the parting, to suit the expression of the features. But since the introduction of silk and skin partings (which occasionally show a division little more than a straight line) the aim seems to be different, and a parting is produced thicker and closer than would be seen on a young girl’s head. The result of this is to impart a heavy aspect to the countenance, which is at all times undesirable, and will account in some degree for their discontinuance. These unnatural-looking partings are sometimes demanded by persons who make no pretension to good taste, and they will not be advised by the tradesman, who knows full well what is likely to suit them best. Partings which require the most skill in their manufacture, if the aim be to produce a good article, are silk and skin partings, and to make the first of these proceed as follows:—In proportion to the length of parting required prepare a stout wire frame—say six inches long, and four inches wide, and that you are going to work a three and a-half inch parting. With the help of a needle and stout cotton, stretch the silk firm and secure in the centre of the frame, so that it is immovable and longer than required. Weave the hair in “close,” or “once in” weft, keeping it free from grease or dirt lest the foundation be soiled. Attach the weft to the back of the silk, and draw a few hairs through at a time by means of a small hook made for the purpose. Work regularly and methodically, bearing in mind the width and length required. The centre portion must be done very fine, while the sides may be coarser, a somewhat larger hook being used. Having drawn all the hair through to what is now the top, take a comb and “make a parting” the same as you would upon a lady’s head. Comb the hair smoothly on each side, warm the pressing-iron, and press into shape. Cut down, and the parting is made.
It is not reasonable to expect first attempts to afford much satisfaction, but procure a well-made parting and strive to imitate it by all the means in your power. With a good pattern, you may observe what can be done, and if you desire to enter the foremost ranks, you must endeavour to equal, if not excel others.
Skin partings are made the same way, but, as I have before said, a thin skin (sold for the purpose) is laid upon the silk before working.
Transparent partings are to be made upon a net, gauze, Yak-hair, or human-hair foundation. Professed patent-parting makers no doubt use a frame, but a hairdresser would, in all probability, make the parting upon a block, and in its proper place. Of course, it is best to do the parting as a separate portion, because it can be easier pressed into shape, and the piece of thin skin (previously sewn underneath) for preventing the effects of perspiration, will escape being punctured by the knotting needle. However, this is a matter for consideration by the worker, who must necessarily be somewhat experienced before venturing to knot partings. The kind of net used for partings can be purchased at a hair merchant’s; it is made of cotton, and should be fine, smooth, and as regular as possible consistent with durability. Gauze is much finer and closer than net, being manufactured expressly for the purpose. It is largely used for scalpettes, gentlemen’s scalps, and fine knotted work generally. TulleYak, or Yak-hair foundations, are made abroad, and well suit the purpose for which they are intended.
Like other work of this description, the meshes vary in size, and can be had either open or very close. But the best foundations are made of white human hair, with a square, round, diamond, or diamond-barred mesh; the foundations for crowns, and crowns and partings, being specially prepared. Speaking of the Yak-hair manufacture, a recent writer says, “there is a large quantity of good lace made in the mountain villages of Saxony and Bohemia, and thousands of hands are thus constantly employed. This industry has of late received an addition in the manufacture of a peculiar lace or tulle made of white hair. It was introduced into this district a few years ago by a Normandy lady, and has since then extended to such a degree that now in one town (Rothenkerchen) alone several hundred persons live by it. The lace is made of white human hair procured from all countries of Europe, but principally from Italy. The price paid for it ranges from one penny to two shillings per gramme, according to quality, and the fine lace made out of it is used as a foundation for wigs.”