To give completeness to my work, a short account of “The Genealogy of Implantations,” from the Moniteur de la Coiffure, will, no doubt, interest the reader, for it has a direct bearing on the subject.
The journal named had the following under the heading of “Croisat and the 101 Coiffeurs.”
“In 1805, Leguet, hairdresser at Lyons, invented the flesh-coloured hair-net. Postiches had hitherto been so coarsely made that this improvement in the manufacture of wigs caused quite a sensation. The fame of the inventor soon reached Paris, and M. Tellier, hairdresser at the Palais Royal, tried to buy Leguet’s patent. In 1810, Leguet, who had found that his wigs did not keep the desired firmness (the hair being badly knotted), easily agreed to cede his patent to Tellier. An English firm having heard of Leguet’s invention, procured one of his wigs, which they imitated and improved. This came to the knowledge of Tellier, who went to London to study the improvements. Meanwhile, Carron, another coiffeur at the Palais Royal, bought from a Lyons silk weaver the process for the implantation on silk of a different kind, which, though less suitable for men’s wigs than that of Leguet’s, gave much neater partings for women’s work. Tellier, on his return to Paris, intending to considerably extend his novel industry, associated himself with a stocking-weaver of the Cevennes. Hence arose a law suit between Carron and Tellier. But, contrary to the ordinary rule, this law suit, instead of ruining the parties more immediately concerned, helped to make their fortune. All the papers were full of this suit, and every baldhead—feminine or masculine—in the kingdom was eager to see and perchance try to rejuvenate itself by the novel inventions. The poor Lyons weaver, who had parted with his patent, being unable to witness others amassing fortunes by its means, while he remained in misery, put an end to his days. In the law suit M. Tellier, having produced the patent bought of Leguet, got the best of it.
“Michalon, a weaver, invented the silk parting, produced with a long piece of silk without head, which he put on his shuttle. Dufaur invented the knotted hair foundation, knotting the hair by means of a gauze needle. Then a workman established himself in the Faubourg St. Denis, who made partings in the way Carron made them. He was the first to make partings in heart shape. The brothers Lavacquerie perfected the work of the latter. Valon, one of Dufaur’s workmen, further perfected the wigs by giving a tighter and better fit.
“In 1822, Souchard took out a patent at Bordeaux for implantations made with an embroidery needle, and having in the course of time perfected his invention, he tried to implant hair on a pig’s bladder, which, being lined with gros de Naples, made an excellent bald-wig for theatrical performances, and produced a very good effect.
“In 1823 Souchard went to England, to study the manner in which the English made their silk net wigs. He found the English silk net infinitely superior to the French, and be adopted the former for his wigs.
“This genealogy of M. Souchard’s was written in 1836, and since then implantation has made immense progress.”
Enough, perhaps, has been said about the manufacture of partings to acquaint the reader with the manner in which this kind of work is done; but I regard parting-making as a separate branch, and only those who have constant practice can expect to become proficient.
Knotting, however, lies more within the hairdresser’s domain, and to be a clever knotter the worker must be patient, careful, have good eyesight, and bring to bear sound judgment in the arrangement and execution of his work. In parts not seen, or rather where knots are concealed through being covered with the hair above, they may be somewhat coarsely done, but in conspicuous places, such as partings or crowns, the greatest skill must be exhibited, and Nature copied as exactly as possible. I have had occasion to refer at different times to knotting, and it will be well, perhaps, to speak of it in general terms before dwelling upon any class of work in particular.
In preparing a mount for knotting (no matter whether it be for a bandeau, front, scalp, scalpette, or what not) you have to decide first whether there is to be weft upon the edges of the net, and likewise upon the galloon. If so, the net need only be cut off as before mentioned; but when the mount is to be knotted all over, the edges of the net must be allowed to extend the eighth of an inch or more beyond the whole of the galloon. Here is the reason: in order to knot over the galloon and close to the edges of it, that portion of the net which projects must be turned under and in upon the galloon, to which it should be neatly and securely sewn. Indeed, the net must be sewn to the galloon wherever edges occur, for it not only holds the net firm and tight, but when taken off the block there are no ugly openings visible. Bear in mind the net is to be put on firm and tight, the meshes well open, and no “bagginess” in any part. There are different kinds of net, and you will have to select particular sorts for special work, about which experience—if no other instructor can be approached—must be your guide.