Perruque à bourse.
Wigs were first worn by barristers about 1670, to which opposition was made by the judges, and some of the leaders were not allowed to plead in their new head-gear. In the time of James II. wigs increased in size, becoming still larger in the following reign (William III.), when wigs were adopted by all classes, but among those of humble station they were moderate in size and price. Gentlemen’s wigs, however, were large and full, requiring much hair in their manufacture. It is recorded that in 1700 a sum of £60 was given for a country girl’s hair, and that the grey hair of an old woman deceased sold for nearly as much—the ordinary price of a first-class wig being at that time forty pounds. Full-bottomed wigs were invented, it is said, by Duviller, for the purpose of hiding some natural defect in the shoulders of the Dauphin. Children wore wigs, or the natural hair was curled to look like them. Archbishop Tillotson was the first of our prelates who wore a wig. Steele’s wig cost as much as forty guineas. Dean Swift had a fine wig for state occasions, and “Colley Cibber’s wig, in which he played a favourite character, was of such noble proportions that it was brought upon the stage in a sedan by two chairmen.” The tie-wig (the long-curled wig abridged) was not considered court dress.
“How to wear a wig,” says the author of “Trichocosmos,” “was part of the education of a man of the world, not to be learned from books. Those who know what witchcraft there is in handling a fan, what dexterity in the ‘nice conduct of a clouded cane,’ will imagine the wits and gentlemen of old did not suffer the wig to overshadow their temples with perpetual gloom, like the wreath of smoke which overhangs our Modern Babylon. And many a country squire must have tried in vain to catch the right toss of the head; to sport a playful humour in those crisp curls; or to acquire the lofty carriage of the foretop, or the significant trifling with some obtrusive lock; and felt as awkward in his new wig as a tailor on horseback, or a fat alderman with a dress sword dangling between his legs.”
Natural coloured wigs were worn till about 1714, when it became fashionable to adopt bleached hair, which soon faded, then wigs were powdered. It is said that wigs of peculiar excellence cost as much as £140 each, and it is on record that “a petition from the master peruke-makers of London and Westminster, presented to the king (George III.) in 1763, points out the great decline of their use to have taken place at that time.” In this memorial they complain of the public wearing their own hair, and say, “That this mode, pernicious enough in itself to their trade, is rendered excessively more so, by swarms of French hairdressers already established in those cities, and daily increasing.”
Theatrical wigs will supply many capital illustrations of those that were worn by notable personages in former years, and a ramble through the National Gallery, Hampton Court Palace, and other public as well as private picture galleries will be found highly instructive to wig-makers of the present day. The chief art now consists in making wigs so closely to imitate Nature as to defy detection, and those who succeed in doing so may well be classed among the most talented men in the profession. Wigs and scalps will always be worn, and probably there is a good trade to be done in such manufactures now, but great attention to every detail is necessary so as to withstand the keen glance of scrutiny.
I will now apply myself to the task before me, but consider that a few general observations are necessary and important before entering into the technicalities of the art.
When taking an order for a lady’s or gentleman’s wig, observe the shape of the head, cast of countenance, and age of the person who intends wearing it. Note whether the head is long, broad, or high, as a correct shape ought to be maintained by the wig-maker, who, in this and other respects, should be an artist. Observe also whether the face is long, round, or oval, because the arrangement of the hair on the forehead and sides of the head has much to do in presenting a good appearance. If this passes observation and comment, the result may be considered satisfactory; but should there be “a something” objectionable which causes remark, find out what it is, or where the fault lies, and either remove or alter it if possible. Again, notice the countenance; do not put in contrast to an aged face hair that is only suitable to youth. Let the hair be consistent both in colour and quantity with the age of the wearer, and, above all, endeavour to avoid anything extravagant or out of place. A gentleman’s wig must be cut and trimmed after it is made, to adapt it to the style and taste of the wearer; it ought to fit easily in every part; and where springs are, no undue pressure should be allowed to exist. While the general appearance has to be well considered, the comfort of the wearer must always be kept in view.
The reader is, doubtless, fully aware that baldness is not confined to age, for some men lose their hair early in life. You may, without much trouble, find a bald-headed man at thirty, and it is perhaps as easy to discover a man at sixty with a fairly good head of hair. All classes are likely to be more or less troubled with baldness, for it makes its mark in a variety of ways. Sometimes the hair recedes from the brow, giving the appearance of a very high forehead, at other times it only attacks the crown. Then, again, the whole of the top part of the head is left bare, which not unfrequently extends to the occiput behind. A partial baldness requires merely a scalp which may, according to the circumstances of the case, be either large or small, but when the baldness is extensive, a wig will be found the most convenient and suitable head-covering. Scalps are consequently made in a variety of shapes and sizes; the mountings are equally variable, and the method adopted for holding them firmly in position admits of great ingenuity. Some scalps are mounted with galloon, net, and springs; others have a metallic-spring attachment, which sensibly, though not uncomfortably, grips the head, while another mode of fastening is by means of “penknife springs” or clasps.[[19]] (These open as the name indicates, and being closed, a small portion of the growing hair is shut in or clasped at the same time.) Some scalps, when made for the top of the head and crown have, in addition, a strip of galloon, which, being covered with hair, easily adapts itself to the lower part of the back of the head. By an arrangement of this character a scalp cannot possibly go forward on to the forehead of the wearer. Scalps when made very light and delicate, and intended for a small-sized patch upon the upper portion of the head, and sometimes the crown, are fixed only with gum, a gummy substance sold for the purpose, or diachylon. This gossamer-like scalp admits of very superior work (knotted), while the mounting, if required, should be of the lightest possible description. Where strength and durability are concerned, probably nothing can be better than a well-sewn, woven scalp or wig; but when art steps in to closely imitate nature, and attempts to defy the keen glance of scrutiny, then both single and double knotting are brought into requisition. This presents a more natural appearance, of course, and though the cost is increased, the work is not so lasting. In wig and scalp making there is plenty of scope for ability, ingenuity, and taste, for to insure success very much is left to the judgment of the maker, and to the carefulness and discretion of the wearer, so as to prevent his “secret” being discovered. I will give some working directions, with suitable illustrations, as I proceed, but for the present I am chiefly concerned in impressing certain leading points or features upon the mind of the learner, as success will greatly depend upon strict attention to minute details.
Of course, careful measurement is all important, for no matter how well the work may be done, if it proves to be a misfit, disappointment and annoyance, to say the least, will surely be felt by the parties concerned. Besides, a mistake of this kind is likely to prejudice the mind of the customer, and another article (however well-made) might not, perhaps, be received with favour; therefore, be exact. I wish now to direct attention to the illustration which appears on the next page and to the following directions for measurement.
No. 1.—With a tape measure ascertain the circumference of the head.