No. 2.—Measure from the centre of the forehead (where the hair should be) to the nape of the neck.
No. 3.—Ascertain the distance from ear to ear across the forehead (see the lower dotted line).
No. 4.—Measure from ear to ear over the top (or highest) part of the head.
No. 5.—Note how many inches it is from temple to temple, round the back of the head.
Fig. 33.
These directions are simple enough and only require careful attention; be very exact in writing down the figures, and observe the formation of the head. Of course, all these measurements are not wanted for a scalp (some scalps at all events), but the different kinds of work are so intimately associated that it is difficult to make any very marked distinction here upon the subject. Besides using a tape measure, it will be as well to cut out a paper pattern for a scalp. An expert might say there is no necessity for doing both, but I am not addressing myself to the advanced men in the trade, who do not stand in need of assistance from me. I direct my remarks more particularly to apprentices, improvers, and to beginners in general. To them I say—you cannot be too particular, therefore do not spare yourself a little extra trouble, as you may probably reap advantage from it before the job is finished. A paper pattern for a scalp comes in very useful at times, more especially when there are some intricacies to be noted. It need not be exactly a pattern, but still it should unmistakably show the outline of the patch which is to be covered. Having taken the dimensions, then, the next thing is to cut off a piece of hair for the colour. Your customer should be advised to wear his hair a convenient length for the purpose in view, (say) from two and a-half to three and a-half inches long. Fashion, of course, has much to do with the length of men’s hair, but you cannot make a wig or scalp with hair so preposterously short as is worn by many at the present time—that is out of the question. The real hair as well as the “false” should be sufficiently long to allow of one combining with the other. There ought not to be any division, and the length of the hair must, as a consequence, be taken into consideration. Whether a crown is to be put in, or a crown and parting, should next engage attention; also, whether the parting is to be in the centre, on the right, or left side; if it is to be skin or transparent; and what kind of foundation. These preliminaries being arranged, I will proceed with the making of a scalp.
The scalp you are to make is without a patent parting, but with a crown either of silk or skin. If any parting is to be made on this scalp, it should not be clearly defined, but whether it be formed with weft or “knotted,” the hair ought to be set closer than it is elsewhere. This, however, will be alluded to later on. Should a rather narrow scalp be all that is required, and the wearer’s hair thick enough, a parting could well be made upon the head, some of the natural hair being trained to comb over and allowed to mingle with the hair of the scalp. Nothing could be better than an arrangement of this kind, where it is possible to adopt it. Attention must also be paid to the “set” of the hair upon the brow; if allowed to remain in slight disorder perhaps that would be the better way to wear it. At all events, a “wiggy” and cloudy aspect should be avoided.
Fig. 34.