Board-Work; or the Art of Wig-making, Etc. / Designed For the Use of Hairdressers and Especially of Young Men in the Trade. To Which Is Added Remarks Upon Razors, Razor-sharpening, Razor Strops, & Miscellaneous Recipes, Specially Selected.

by Edwin Creer

The mount represented above is, as I before stated, for a scalp with a crown, but without a patent parting. In reference to mounting, detailed instructions have frequently been given, which I need not here repeat. Take a clean, smooth, mounting block, and with a blacklead pencil carefully mark the size and form of the work taken in hand. Having done this, commence at the back by tacking on the galloon (which should be a little wider than that ordinarily used for fronts, bands, &c.), and with it follow the line marked until the ends meet. Arrange this so as to have half an inch or more to spare at both of the ends. Of course, in following the pencil marks with the galloon, you have found it necessary to use points so as to keep the shape, drawing the galloon at the same time moderately tight. You are now to hold the free ends between the thumb and finger of the left hand close down upon the block, while you stitch them through and through, so that when done they may be close and firm. Open the ends, gently hammer the sewn part, and take a few stitches to keep the ends in place. You are now to baste where it has just been sewn, observing to maintain an even roundness so as to fit nicely at the back of the head. Come now to the front and form the peak upon the forehead, but it should be more rounded and less pointed than is indicated in the engraving.[^[20]] The sides are to be basted out as shown, and to impart a graceful curve, points are to be driven into the centre of the block and the galloon drawn inward as required. I will now assume that the outline of the scalp is formed; the galloon moderately tight and firmly held in place—and that it is ready for other matters to be proceeded with. Sew a piece of galloon from temple to temple; affix another piece at the sides (across the top) and then connect the front and back together. A glance at the illustration shows clearly what is to be done.[^[21]] Springs are now to be attached, and for this purpose take a piece of watch-spring sufficiently long to reach from the forehead nearly to the crown, or quite to the edge of the crown if considered necessary. Two other springs are to be prepared extending from the side angles to join the centre one. At this point they are not to overlap, but must fit evenly and flat. Here, again, a reference to the engraving will indicate my meaning. It may be necessary to put two springs at the back also, especially if the scalp be rather large, otherwise, the patent crown might be found sufficient. The springs are to be somewhat flattened, so as to fit the mount exactly, for unless this be attended to, the scalp will not lie upon the head as it should do. They must now be filed or ground off at the ends, and tipped with kid, thin leather, or parchment, the whole neatly covered with galloon, and then sewn in their proper places. The next thing is to put on some silk net, carefully sewing it all round the inner margin of the scalp. Cut off, leaving an edge which must not extend beyond the outer line of the galloon. Fix this in place by means of the “herring-bone” stitch, and sew the net to all the other edges of the galloon and springs. I may observe that it is intended to cover this mount with weft, but were it to be “knotted,” the edges of the net should be left rather long, then turned in, and firmly sewn to the outer line as previously instructed.

“Pen-knife” springs should now be attached.

Fig. 35.

They are, as before stated, made to open, and upon being closed, a small portion of the natural hair is shut in with what might be termed the blade. Here is the representation of a “penknife” spring (open), and it is drawn the exact size.

The scalp now in course of manufacture would require three or four of these fastenings, namely, one on each side towards the front, and one or two at the back in convenient situations.

Observe that these springs are intended to lie as flat as possible, being made with a slight concavity, which should go next the head. They must, consequently, be arranged as “rights” and “lefts.” Take a piece of galloon the width of the spring (that which is used for the mount will probably answer the purpose), turn in the ends, and sew over and over right round, except where the blade shuts in. In order that you may properly secure the covering, notice three small holes in the spring, through which stitches should be made. These details having been attended to, the springs are to be attached to the mount, and, I need scarcely say, they ought to be secure.

The hair is now to be put on, and the weft I presume is ready. Correct judgment, together with the requirements of the work, should, to a certain extent at least, guide you. As the rows of weft are arranged, so the hair will “set,” and this should always be borne in mind. A properly made and well-dressed gentleman’s wig is a “study,” from which much is to be learnt, and young men in the trade should never allow such ingenious productions to pass unnoticed. Of the “cutting and dressing a gentleman’s wig” I shall speak presently, and merely allude to it here for the purpose of showing the importance which attaches to a proper arrangement of hair in the first instance, whether it be woven or “knotted.” Remember, as a rule, that in gentlemen’s wig-making the hair should always be dressed to the face, but this effect cannot be produced without careful attention to the rows of weft, or “knots.” However, in this instance suppose you adopt the following plan. Commence sewing on the weft at the back, at the lower edge of the galloon, and continue it all round; go round again, sewing the weft moderately close to the first row. It is important that these should be well and neatly put on. Continue sewing till you come to one of the angular places which is to be filled up, bearing in mind the preceding observations. Then pass on (without cutting the weft) to another and another, till all the corners are disposed of. If this be judiciously executed, you will then have a “clear field” to work upon, and may go on sewing the weft round and round until you approach the crown, when the rows must be a little closer together. While there is yet plenty of room, take the crown (silk or skin I am supposing it to be), sew the edges, as is done when putting in a patent parting, and fix neatly, yet firmly, in its proper position. Then go on with the weft, and finish off upon the crown, close to the hair.

Having done with the needle, the work is now to be pressed (and some of these observations apply to wig-making in general), about which you must needs be careful. The hair employed in this description of manufacture (short crop hair) is specially curled for the purpose, and in making gentlemen’s wigs, hair of two, three, and sometimes four different lengths is used, so as to avoid cutting, if possible. It stands to reason that the hair put at the top of a wig or scalp should be longer than that in the neck, while at the sides the hair required is probably of a length something between the two. Therefore, when purchasing the hair, calculate the length before-hand, or, should it be in stock, cut it off at the roots before weaving or “knotting,” if it is found necessary to do so. In pressing and dressing this scalp, I will assume that merely the points of the lower hair are to be removed, therefore push back with a comb the same as though you were about cutting a lady’s hair, and remove the ends with a sharp razor. Even this must be done in a particular manner, and is to be produced by a kind of sliding motion. Let me tell you the object which is to be attained, that you may the more readily understand what and how to do it. The natural ends of hair are finer and more pointed than they would be if cut. They curl and combine more readily if left in their normal condition, with which ordinary cutting is likely to interfere: therefore the employment of a razor is to make the points resemble the original as near as possible.

Pressing, you can now perceive, is equally important, and should be done first. You must press the work, but not the hair—that is, the curl; for if you do that, the job will be spoilt before it leaves your hands, that’s all! Therefore, press carefully; incline each section of the hair as it leaves your fingers to take up its proper position; do not injure the curl in the least, and endeavour to impart to it a natural and becoming appearance.