Another way of fixing the scalp is by means of a metallic spring (see Fig. [36]), and it can easily be adapted to the purpose. The galloon which passes across the top could either be dispensed with, or arranged so that the spring, when covered, passes along unseen. The front of it could easily be made to come forward, while the corner springs (either front or back) must be reduced, or otherwise designed so as to keep the scalp well in shape.
Fig. 36.
These springs, I may observe, are made to go across the top of the head, while others are constructed to go at the back, just below the bind of the hat. It is of the former description that I now speak. For making either a scalp or wig with a metallic spring it is best to keep some of these springs in stock, and when taking an order try them on, so as to get one that will be easy and comfortable. Heads vary in size, so do the springs; therefore, this mode of fitting a spring is essential. That part which extends from front to back is movable, and can be readily adjusted, while the behind part may be broken off at pleasure, the end, of course, being filed and covered in the usual way. With these preliminaries arranged, take a long piece of galloon, fasten on to a given point (say the front), and wrap round to the end, firm, smooth, and regular, holding the spring at the same time in the left hand; the upper edge of the galloon which is on the spring being covered with the lower edge of that which is free. Continue this from one end to the other and sew firmly. Now do the side-spring in the same way; cover neatly the centre at the top of the head, and sew wherever necessary. Of course, the spring will by this arrangement project at the sides, and extend down towards the ears. All this part, then, must be covered with weft, the hair well “set,” pressed forward, and made to combine with the natural side hair of the wearer.
The mounting already shown is capable of numerous modifications, but the general directions remain the same. The form may be enlarged or diminished, it can be oval-shaped or round (or three-cornered if needs be), nevertheless, all the details must be carefully attended to if good workmanship be desired.
Baldness is not particular to age, neither does it assume any definite form; it varies upon different individuals. As a consequence the size and shape of scalps vary considerably, and the class of work is regulated not unfrequently by the purse. These deviations from any fixed rule, therefore, afford ample scope for the display of ingenuity and taste on the part of the boardsman; and to be a good wig-maker is a strong recommendation to first-class situations. Clever workmen, as I have stated before, do not stand in need of instruction, and were I to offer it some offence might reasonably be taken; but with apprentices and improvers, as well as those in business whose experience in the wig-maker’s art is limited, the case is altered, and if I can be the means of helping them my task will not have been undertaken in vain.
To manufacture a scalp of a like description but with a silk or skin parting and crown inserted, proceed as follows:—Mark the outline of the mount upon a clean block and put on the galloon as before. Note the width and length of the parting, which should always be placed on the left side except when ordered otherwise, and arrange so that the centre of the crown will fall into its proper place. Having basted the galloon which marks the shape or outline of the scalp, you can then attach the piece which extends from front to back, and a cross piece right in front, if necessary (see illustration).[[22]] Notice the width of the parting, and in regard to this portion of the work, deal with the mount as instructed in mounting a front, paying great attention to the edge where it joins the forehead. About this you cannot be too particular. Now take the galloon and drive a point in the end of it, near to one of the basting-stitches, and conduct it upwards towards the crown; form the outline of the crown with it, and return to the fellow basting-stitch where it is to be cut off. I will now assume that you have the exact form of the parting and crown, the galloon being held in position by means of points driven into it at intervals. Sew the ends in their places, and baste the galloon, making a neat circle at the crown. Here the galloon will become puckered; the puckers are to be pinched together, sewn through and through, and made to lie as flat as possible. Having done all this, what, let me ask (in order that I may be clearly understood), is the object in view? It is to impart neatness to the work, and to conceal the margins of the parting and crown; it renders the scalp more durable, and when off the block the edges of the parting, &c., are neatly concealed.
The net and springs are to be put on, then the hair, and all finished off in a proper manner. Scalps of this description can be held in their places by means of a cement made and sold for the purpose (to which I shall presently allude), but I cannot help thinking that, after all, springs are preferable.
A better class of work is done upon gauze, and the best of all is made upon human hair foundations. Other materials for the purpose, of an inferior description, are used, to which I need not here refer, as the two kinds named are sufficient for my purpose. The gauze is very fine in texture, and can be mounted with galloon or not, just as it may be considered necessary. Of course, galloon affords additional strength to the article, and if lightness be not the chief requisition, I should say that gauze scalps were more durable when mounted. Here is an outline of one:—
