Board-Work; or the Art of Wig-making, Etc. / Designed For the Use of Hairdressers and Especially of Young Men in the Trade. To Which Is Added Remarks Upon Razors, Razor-sharpening, Razor Strops, & Miscellaneous Recipes, Specially Selected.

by Edwin Creer

Fig. 37.

It will be seen that there is galloon all round, and to the parting and crown also. A mount of this character can be designed by omitting the latter altogether; it can be made with a crown only, or, with a parting in addition, as shown in the diagram,[^[23]] but in that case, the piece of galloon which now marks a separation between the crown and parting should be omitted. This, of course, could easily be managed by putting on the galloon in the way just previously mentioned. A scalp of this kind can be mounted with white, drab, or other coloured galloon; it might be knotted either on gauze or net, with a human hair foundation parting and crown inserted. Indeed, the variations made in this description of manufacture are of a multifarious character, as may readily be perceived. The mode of attaching these scalps to the head of the wearer is by means of diachylon, or, what is better, the Pomade Toulouse, an adhesive substance easily softened by heat, or else “wafers,” which are made sticky by a little moisture, and used as desired by the wearer.

Scalps with entire Human Hair Foundations cannot be excelled for lightness and a natural appearance. They are made of any size and pattern, with perfectly secured edges, so that no galloon or springs are necessary. They only require to be well and properly attached to the block by means of basting-stitches, and carefully—I might say artistically—knotted all over, the crown, or crown and parting, being done as the work progresses. Some exquisite pieces of workmanship are executed in this line by expert hands, their productions being well qualified to receive the name of “zephyr” which has been given to them by certain manufacturers. The mode of attachment is the same as that mentioned above, by means of cement or gum.

CHAPTER XI.

Of Gentlemen’s Wigs, and a few additional observations thereon—To make a strong and durable Wig with woven Hair throughout—Mounting a Wig—The Metallic Spring again—Various kinds of Net used—Caution against using too much Hair—Sewing on the Weft—The Crown made with Weft—The Parting formed with Weft—Pressing the Work—Of Elastic Springs—The Wig completed.

It is now my intention to treat of Gentlemen’s Wigs, and I think that, so far as general remarks are concerned, there is but little to add to my former observations on the subject. The approved method to be adopted for measuring the head, together with other necessary instructions, have been already given, to which the reader is referred. Like every thing else, gentlemen’s wigs admit of considerable variation, and can be made to suit the pockets of all classes. Some customers are strictly economical; they do not so much care for appearances, their desire being to have a wig that shall be strong, durable, and low in price. Such men will wear a wig until it “goes foxy” (to use a trade phrase which fully explains my meaning). Some people, as they advance in years, have an aversion to putting on new things; preferring that to which they have become accustomed before a fresh, and, it may be, more elaborate article. This applies to clothing, boots and shoes, hats, &c., and why not to wigs? Therefore, in executing an order for a person who habitually wears one, notice every detail associated with that which he is wearing, and deviate as little as possible therefrom. Younger men, who lose their hair early in life, require to be much more particular; they wish to defy the scrutinizing glances of friends and acquaintances, and, as a consequence, seek to obtain that which is lighter, and of a more natural appearance. Price, it may be, is of the last consideration, for nothing, perhaps, would cause them greater uneasiness than to be told by some indiscreet associate, “Why, Jack, you’ve got a wig on.” Men sometimes show their ignorance by making such foolish remarks; and I allude to it here to impress upon the reader how important it is to acquire taste, good judgment, and proficiency in business. I said just now that “gentlemen’s wigs admit of considerable variation,” and it is my intention to describe the manufacture of two kinds, namely, those which are intended to be worn for an indefinite period, and others that have to be renewed more frequently. That is to say, the buyer of a wig at thirty-five shillings would desire it to last for a longer time than he who purchases a more artistically made article at treble the price, and renews it every year.

I propose making a wig (in the first instance) of a strong and durable character, and with woven hair throughout. This description, either with or without patent crowns, or patent partings and crowns (of which more hereafter), I prefer making with weft, because I think them less likely to shrink than if they were knotted. Knotted work for lightness, weft for durability; at least, this is my opinion of the matter. It will be for the workman to decide which he considers preferable, and, as I shall give instructions how to proceed in either case, an opportunity will thus be afforded him to judge of the correctness of my assertion.

Fig. 38.