Fig. 40.
I previously stated that “I propose making a wig (in the first instance) of a strong and durable character, and with woven hair throughout;” but I have another object in view besides strength and durability. In all that I have written about “Board-work,” I have addressed myself chiefly to apprentices and improvers, and in this particular instance I wished the young wig-maker to possess himself of a good specimen of his abilities. Indeed, I am now about setting a task which will try his ingenuity, and if successful in doing it well, he may justly feel proud of his work. It is to make a crown according to the illustration given on the preceding page.
A reference to Fig. [39] shows a wig mount, with the circular space left for the crown, which is, moreover, divided into four parts. In each of these divisions the weft (carefully and finely made for the purpose) is to be sewn according to the diagram Fig. [40]. It will be seen from the covered half that each row of hair overlaps the other, and the greatest nicety should be exercised in working the exact centre, so as to conceal, if possible, every sign of weft. This is to be done by adroit workmanship, assisted by a warm iron and careful pressing.
To make a parting with the weft take a needleful of white cotton, mark the place for the parting, and the width it is intended to be. Simply make two straight lines from the crown to the temple, about an inch apart, and on the side the parting is worn. Having done this, remember that when sewing on the weft, it is to be turned back for an inch, and then returned again, so as to follow on in its proper course; these turnings and re-turnings being necessary (1) to bring the rows closer together, and (2) to make a division without showing the net foundation. Of course, a clear and distinct parting must not be attempted in this case, but just such a division as a hairdresser should be able to make on a gentleman’s head with a brush only.
All being so far completed, the next thing to do is to press the work, but not the hair, otherwise the curl will disappear. Take a smooth, warm, pressing iron and begin, say, upon the left side, nearest the face. This will be at one of the angles, or points. Separate three or four rows of weft at a time, and of a convenient width, so as to hold the slip of hair firmly between the two fore-fingers of the left hand. Damp the weft only, with a small sponge, or the finger, at the same time inclining the curled ends to the face; press, lay the curl flat and leave it undisturbed. In like manner the whole of the work has to be treated, and when finishing off at the crown, see that its peculiar circular turn or inclination is well preserved. Having allowed a little time to elapse for all to get cold and “set,” cut the basting stitches, and carefully take the wig off the block. Pull out all loose threads, examine your work, and see that everything is as it ought to be.
I have said that the block for this kind of work should exceed the circumference of the head by half an inch or more; this allowance is necessary, as it insures an easy fit, and provides to a certain extent for shrinking. Besides, should it prove to be a fault, it is one easily got over by means of an elastic spring, or springs. These springs are made of different lengths; but for a gentleman’s wig, one would probably be two-and-a-half inches long, and it has to go at the back of the neck. Take the wig, turn the back part inside out, so as to get at the lower galloon easily. Cut a piece of galloon the same width, and full an inch longer than the spring. Mark the centre, and sew neatly (both edges) to the lower galloon, so as to form a casing for the spring. The stitching should not be continued to the ends. Now take a needle with doubled silk and fix it to one end of the spring; put the head of the needle foremost, and pass it through as though it were a bodkin. Draw the spring into position, and firmly sow first one end to the wig, and (having previously attached a second needle and silk to the other end) then the other. The degree of tightness required must be your guide, both as to the length of spring and amount of elasticity. Turn in the free ends of the galloon and sew neatly as before, until all is perfectly covered. Should a second spring be required, it is to be placed above, in exactly the same way, upon the fillet or band which goes around the head.
The wig is again to be put on the block, the hair cut with a razor, by a kind of gliding motion (to taper off the ends as much as possible), brushed and dressed. It is now ready for the wearer, and any other alterations in regard to trimming, etc., can be done upon the head, so as to adapt it to the features.
CHAPTER XII.
Of Gentlemen’s Wigs (continued)—Difference between Woven and Knotted Wigs considered—Instructions for Making a Knotted Wig—Of the Parting and Crown—Of the Crown only—Pressing, Dressing, etc.—A Superior kind of Wig Described, and Making the same—The Transparent Parting and Crown—Sundry Important Details.