“Do you not think,” said a gentleman to me one day, “that a wig made with weft is rather old-fashioned?” The question can only be answered in the affirmative, because knotted work has very generally superseded it, but, I maintain, for a man to be clever in any trade or profession (and wig-making forms no exception to the rule), he must be acquainted with all the rudimentary parts. To be well grounded in the first principles of an art is, other qualifications being equal, a sure precursor of success. Careful instructors are well aware of this, and as a consequence, cause their pupils to undergo much preliminary training before entrusting them with more difficult tasks. The medical and legal professions, painting, sculpture and music, chemistry, photography, and many others might be enumerated to show the amount of technical instruction which must, as it were, be drilled into a man before he is sufficiently clever to take a foremost place in his profession. The art of hairdressing furnishes another instance of what I am asserting, and the talented coiffeurs, who give expositions of their skill at the different concours in Paris and London, afford examples of untiring energy, and great attention to the most trifling details. The fact is, he who desires to be clever must go plodding, plodding on, regarding nothing as too trivial for him to do, and nothing (within reason) too difficult for him to attempt. Weft of one kind or the other will always be in requisition; it is the key-stone of the hair-work trade, affords employment to the less skilful, imparts durability to false hair manufactures, and is contributory to cheapness.
My inquiring friend could have put a similar question to me respecting the metallic spring; but, let me ask, if a customer did not wish it, and it was not considered necessary by the wig-maker, why introduce it at all? The spring can be left out, and other lesser springs substituted, as it is very much a matter of taste or convenience. Some persons cannot bear the pressure of a metallic spring, which, perhaps, is attributable more to the spring not fitting the head properly than to the oversensitiveness of the wearer.[[26]] Yet I am under an impression that, for ordinary wear, a wig with a well-fitting metallic spring across the top, or at the back of the head (the latter especially) is both secure and comfortable; the wig retains its shape better, and, with weft, is much more durable. In matters of this description a great deal depends upon circumstances, and the arrangements made between buyer and seller. My desire is to give completeness to the work which I have undertaken; to have, as it were, a “word in season” for every emergency; to lead the pupil far on the road towards proficiency, and, having arrived there, he can well be left to look after himself, for he is no longer a learner, but a good boardsman.
To make a knotted wig, I will direct the reader’s attention to Figs. 38 and 39, and request him to mount a wig in accordance with the instructions given therewith. He can mount it with, or without, the metallic spring, but in either case, care must be taken to affix springs of the requisite lengths, and in suitable places to keep the angles or points well in position. All the springs must be neatly covered, and put on before the net; in fact, as the wig is to be knotted, all galloon work should be done first, and the net affixed last. Silk net is to be used. In sewing, first stitch the net to the edge of the galloon in the usual way, and allow it to overlap the other edge before cutting off. Now that portion which overlaps is to be turned under and sewn, of course, to the second edge, and thus all the galloon becomes firmly covered with net. The same applies to the springs and with even greater force to the edges of the mount itself; and here it is necessary to be extremely careful, for when the job is completed and comes under the scrutinizing glance of the master, all wefts should be as regular and well-set as plants in a garden. There must not be inequalities, gaps, or other irregularities, all should be neat and trim. In this instance I do not propose inserting either a parting or crown. I rather prefer leaving the student to “try his ’prentice hand” in making them himself, at least, so far as he is able. My last wig was not intended for a clearly defined parting; neither is this one. The mount is now ready for the hair, instructions concerning which have already been given.
The course to be pursued when knotting the hair, is similar to that which was adopted with the weft—the object being the same. I would observe that, instead of turning in the net as before directed, the maker can (if he chooses) sew upon the galloon two or three rows of very fine wig-weft; one or two of them, however, must cover the edge of the net as well. Additional firmness being thus secured, the knotting can then be proceeded with. In knotting over or on the galloon and springs, coarser work, if considered desirable, may very well be done, but when it is executed on the net, the knots should be moderately fine and regular. The angles, or points of the wig, are to be well and properly filled in, and of course, all the hair should be drawn in the direction in which it is intended to lie. How close, or how far apart, the knots are to be placed is difficult to say. All net is not made alike; some meshes being large while others are small, and, of course, a fixed rule would not apply. Besides, all workmen are not painstaking or patient, therefore the knotter must observe closely the aspect of his work, and be the judge. Perhaps, with a moderately close mesh, it might be sufficient to knot hair in every other space; if this appears to make it too thick, reduce the number of hairs. This is a tolerably safe rule to follow, and a little practical experience will do the rest. The shorter hair is to be used for the neck and sides, the longer for the top; but in these matters such copious instructions are already given that the student cannot well make a mistake if he reads them attentively. He has merely to substitute “knots” for “weft,” and the whole will apply to the job he has now undertaken.
As to the parting and crown, some of the details which have appeared are applicable here. As a clearly defined parting is not intended, it is merely necessary to implant, or knot the hair closer and finer on the side where the parting should be, than in any other portions of the wig. What division there is should be made with the brush (not with the comb), care being taken that the foundation is well covered with hair, and, of course, concealed from view. The crown is to be done last of all, and, if knotted upon the wig net, the design given for making a woven crown, Fig. [40], should be carried out as far as possible. The four sections are to be knotted in such a way that the hair of one falls over the other, while the knotting immediately in the centre should be finely and closely arranged.
Except it be for practice or an economical customer, I do not expect that such a crown will generally be made, because a silk, skin, net, gauze, or other crown can be obtained from the hair merchant, or patent parting maker, which, of course, imparts a better finish to the wig, and presents a more natural appearance. The illustration, Fig. [39], gives a circle adapted for either of the crowns just mentioned, and if a silk or skin one be employed no alteration in this part of the wig is required; but, should a transparent one be inserted, the cross-pieces of galloon must be omitted when mounting, or else cut away afterwards—the reason is obvious. If a transparent crown be inserted, it is optional whether a piece of thin skin (or other light material) be put on first, so as to prevent, to a certain extent, the effect of perspiration, but if a human hair foundation be employed, no such precaution is necessary. Whether a protecting substance be used or not, that part of the crown in which hair is implanted should be brought close to the inner edge of the galloon, and the free portion, i.e., that upon which no hair appears, should lie flat on the galloon, to which it must be neatly sewn. Should any of the material on which the crown is worked overlap the galloon, of course it must be cut away. The vacant space (which will be just the width of the galloon) can then be filled in with weft, unless the net is properly arranged for knotting. But, should a non-transparent parting be employed, the galloon can remain as shown, and the whole be covered with the net used for the wig. In this case the edges of the crown are to be turned in very neatly before it is sewn in position, and, if possible, they ought to be concealed by means of the galloon, the intervening space is either to be filled in with weft, or else the hair can be knotted.
It will thus be seen that various methods of finishing off what might be termed the crowning point of a common wig can very well be adopted.
For Pressing, Dressing, Elastic Springs, &c., see remarks which have from time to time been made.
I have given such copious directions for making gentlemen’s wigs, and dwelt at such length upon the various points essential to a good fit and the comfort of the wearer, that, perhaps, but little more need be said upon the subject. My instructions have been chiefly associated with productions that are strong and durable, for it may be accepted as a truth that when a man can execute the commoner work well, only a short time will elapse before he attempts, or is called upon, to do something better. Besides, as I have so frequently remarked, my instructions are more intended for learners than for skilled men. These do not stand in need of instruction; indeed, it would be impertinent to offer it to them; but with apprentices, improvers, and others whose opportunities for learning are few, the case is widely different. Though I have dwelt at some length on the manufacture of gentlemen’s wigs—wigs that will endure a fair amount of every-day wear—yet a few particulars concerning the better-class article will certainly not be out of place, and might prove to be exceedingly useful.