Board-Work; or the Art of Wig-making, Etc. / Designed For the Use of Hairdressers and Especially of Young Men in the Trade. To Which Is Added Remarks Upon Razors, Razor-sharpening, Razor Strops, & Miscellaneous Recipes, Specially Selected.

by Edwin Creer

Fig. 41.

I must, therefore, again direct the reader to observe Figs. 38 and 39, and attentively read the instructions with which they are accompanied. Having done this, the above illustration is to be studiously regarded, and a marked difference will easily be perceived. The outline, as a matter of course, is to be preserved, and if the student feels so inclined, he can take a tracing and fill in the markings shown upon the others. There is no necessity for doing so, except that it impresses the mounting of a wig upon his memory in a more effectual manner. This wig is intended for a transparent parting and crown, the foundation of which may be either human hair, gauze, net, or such material as is generally used for the purpose. Before putting on the mount, it is best to provide the parting and crown, as well as the hair to be used for the other parts of the wig. Instructions as to length and quantity have already been given. My reason for saying that the parting and crown should be obtained before putting on the mount is, because exactness can be better observed. The edges of the parting work lie on the galloon to which it is sewn; the inner edges of the galloon must come close up to the margin of the implanted hair; “gaps” or vacancies should not be observable, but when the wig is removed from the block and examined, the parting and crown, being surrounded with the galloon, ought to look like a piece of artistic work well set in a frame. Of course, a silk or skin parting and crown may be employed instead of a transparent one, but then there is no occasion to leave the opening in front, as shown in the engraving.[^[27]] In that case the galloon can pass round the head, be continued across, and the whole covered with net; this will impart strength to the wig—a transparent effect not being required.

To mount a wig for the transparent parting and crown, commence tacking on the galloon at the neck, the free portion lying towards the left hand. Proceed, keeping the galloon fairly tight till you reach the lower part of the ear; use more points, and continue till the top of the ear is approached; carefully curve the galloon and make a decided point in front of the ear. Then incline the galloon as shown on the temple, and up to where one corner of the parting is intended to be attached. Turn the galloon and trace the outline for parting and crown, returning to the angle near the centre of the forehead. Incline the galloon sufficiently low (but not lower than is absolutely required) and continue round the other side of the block till the starting-place is reached. Cut off, but see that there is at least half-an-inch of free galloon upon each side, which will presently have to be sewn together. You have now the outline galloon upon the block, which, after careful measurements, must be securely basted. (The “points” and basting stitches sufficiently well indicate this.) Afterwards, it will be found that the galloon is puckered in various places; pinch some of these together, sew through and through close to the block, and fix so as to obliterate all such indications. The inner galloon or “fillet” is next to be put on. This passes round the back of the head (at the neck) and is fastened upon the galloon at each side of the parting. A piece of galloon is then placed at the back, extending from the crown to the lower part of the neck; pieces of galloon being put at the sides, reaching from the top of the ears to the crown. Another piece of galloon is attached to the point upon the forehead, and joins the parting galloon in a straight line with the piece at the back. Springs are placed as shown in the engraving, or in such other positions as may be required. No metallic spring across the top can be used, and one at the back is best avoided, for with correct measurements, and perhaps one or two elastic springs in the neck, a close-fitting wig may well be assured. A reference to the illustrations will suggest other minor details, and, after all that has been said, the learner will know how to deal with them. The mount having been completed, the springs being neatly covered and placed in position, it now remains to put on the net. Given a transparent parting and crown, the other portions of the wig should be knotted. Indeed, all the better class of work ought to be so treated, though, in some instances, a little weft may be employed with advantage, especially if strength be required. However, in this instance, I have designed a knotted wig, the openness or closeness of the net being left to your own selection; regard always being paid to the kind of work you are going to do. When this part of the wig is completed the net ought to “fit like a glove,” and wherever there is galloon, the net must be sewn to the edges of the same.

The knotting or insertion of the hair ought to be done with neatness and great regularity, and should be continued until nearly the whole of the wig is covered, with the exception of the parting and crown. Having dwelt at length on this part of the subject in other places, I cannot do better than ask the student to refer back for more complete details.

With regard to the transparent parting and crown, the reader is invited to look at Fig. [41], and he will perceive that the side galloons (on which the edges of the parting and crown are intended to be sewn) are securely held in position by some large stitches placed in a zigzag direction. These stitches can be increased or diminished at pleasure, or taken away altogether if such a step be desired, but I do not recommend it. They are intended to impart additional strength to the zephyr-like parting; to keep it from tearing, and to prevent its widening or stretching, as it most likely will do, unless something effectual be done to stop it. Most certainly there ought to be a “stitch” or “stay” within half an inch of the front of the parting, another should be placed where the parting ends and the crown begins, while a third might well be put mid-way between the two. There is a substance specially employed for making these stitches, called “Silkworm Gut,” which can be obtained at Messrs. Hovenden & Sons’ warehouses, and, as its name implies, is a kind of gut, white in appearance, and impervious to perspiration. The best white silk cord (about the thickness of coarse thread) is sometimes preferred; it can be renewed when thought desirable, and is, further, soft to the head. This arrangement, then, being completed, a piece of skin, used for the purpose, can be attached to the side galloons, but is not required when the foundation is made of human hair. The skin should not be allowed to reach the front of the parting, and must be turned upwards and inwards, so as to present a neat and even appearance at the edge when the wig is taken off the block. These preliminaries having been duly attended to, the parting and crown may now be put in position and sewn carefully, so as to avoid any wrinkles or puckering; it must lie flat, be perfectly smooth, and resemble the natural parting of hair as much as possible. Herein lies the art of the wig-maker—to imitate nature so skilfully that detection is almost impossible—a feat that is accomplished not unfrequently by some of the most skilful wig-makers of the day.

The larger portion of the mount being now covered with hair, and the parting and crown fixed, it remains for the intervening spaces to be filled in, which having been done the work is ready to be pressed. Instructions and remarks on this branch of the subject have already been given.

If possible, it is at all times desirable to try on a wig before giving it up to the wearer, and this remark has special reference to gentlemen’s wigs. Elastic springs (in the neck) may or may not be put in before the fitting process takes place, and the finishing touches should, if required, be completed upon the head. The hair ought to be well combed and dressed to the face, and anything striking or likely to draw attention to the wearer (so far as the wig is concerned) must be studiously avoided.

CHAPTER XIII.

Of Ladies’ Wigs, and important remarks thereon—Of Mounting and Making Ladies’ Wigs—A well-balanced Wig essential—A Wig with Parting and Straight Hair throughout—All Weft to be concealed—Alterations—Of Wigs with transparent Partings—Mounting and Making the same—Shape of Head to be noted, together with any elevations or depressions—The Wig-block should be a correct Model of the Head.