I have before alluded to the different kinds of net used in wig-making, and there is also variety in galloons, some being white and some flesh-colour, as well as the ordinary brown. Bear in mind my remarks about ladies’ wigs being well-balanced, and when measuring the head, carefully observe the shape. If smooth and round, two elastic springs in the neck will be absolutely necessary; but should the head incline to fulness (either back or front) these more or less prominent organs, speaking phrenologically, will perhaps give a “stay” to the wig, and the elastics may be considered unnecessary. A word or two concerning natural elevations and depressions may probably be useful. It has been previously stated that in mounting a wig the block must be at least half an inch larger round than the actual measurement; this is to allow for shrinking. Should there be any protuberances or “bumps” apparent, a similar elevation must be made upon the block, and, of course, exactly in the same position. This may be done with thin sheet lead, such as tea-chests are lined with; but should there be a depression, then the place upon the block must be filed or scraped away if necessary. The block is, as it were, the model; and with a good model to work upon, a perfect fit can almost be ensured.
I need not dilate upon any other styles of ladies’ wigs, believing that I have said quite enough to enable a man to make almost anything that might be required.
CHAPTER XIV.
The use of Leather Rollers in Curling Hair—Papering and Pinching Hair with the same object in view—Plaiting Hair (for Coiffures)—Of Razors, Razor Setting, and Razor Strops—Miscellaneous Recipes.
Besides the preparation of hair for making it into twists, curls, bandeaux, scalps, wigs, etc., there are many other things to be done with care and attention, and “Board-work” will not be complete without some allusion being made to them. For instance, there is the curling of hair with leathern rollers. These rollers are smooth, soft, round, and well adapted to the purpose. They make a nice curl if properly manipulated, do not break the hair, and only the application of a little warmth is necessary. For ringlet hair nothing can be better, no matter whether it be real or false. Next to the employment of rollers, is the process of papering and pinching the hair. A dexterous workman experiences no difficulty whatever in rolling up a thin strip of hair (no matter whether it be long or short) with his thumb and finger, and wrapping the usual three-cornered curl paper around it. But a curling-peg is more generally employed. This is a round piece of hard wood about six inches long, perfectly smooth, with one end much thinner than the other. The reason is—should the hair be short, or a tight curl required, the small end must be used, but if the hair be long, and a full, round, curl wanted, then the thicker portion has to be employed. The curl is made by rolling it round and round the “peg” (beginning at the points and ending at the roots), and keeping it as flat as possible all the time. Then hold the curled portion securely between the thumb and fingers of the left hand, withdraw the “peg,” and place the curl within the three-cornered paper aforesaid, screwing up the ends to make all secure. When this is done, the curl should feel perfectly round within the paper, the centre being equally as well formed but hollow. Bear in mind what I have so frequently said before, that all curls should turn to the face. Only a medium quantity of hair is to be taken for each curl, and all ought to be about the same size. The curls are next to be “pinched,” and, for this purpose, pinching irons are brought into requisition. If the hair be somewhat new, and of good quality, the less heat that is applied the better, but should it be otherwise much warmth and pressure is necessary. Old hairdressers can recollect when the fronts and curls which came to be re-dressed had to be baked (they were so numerous), and how trouble was caused sometimes, through their being “overdone.”
The papering should be done in regular order, and all quite cold before the papers are removed. For dressing, a little oil (not pomade) should be used, and the curls—if long or short ringlets—formed with the aid of a curl-stick or cold curling irons. True, they can be formed with the fingers, but the other method I consider best. Short, round curls, of course must be made with the fingers after a little frizzing, but these operations are difficult to explain in writing—they want practical illustration, which, now that we have societies and schools, is easily obtainable.
Concerning the beautiful art of plaiting hair for ladies’ coiffures, the reader is informed that copious instructions are already given in my “Lessons in Hairdressing,” and to that work he is respectfully referred.
Of razors and razor-sharpening much might be said, both as regards the instrument itself, as well as the proper mode of keeping it in order. Every hairdresser and barber knows when he is in possession of a good razor, and undoubtedly takes proper care of it. He is to be commended for this, as he simply follows the course adopted by those in other walks in life. Whether the old-fashioned description of razor is better or worse than the more modern “hollow-ground” I will not discuss, believing that a great deal depends upon the shaver, the nature of the beard, and the conditions under which the shaving operation is performed. Good practice in a barber’s shop is the best school in the world for imparting a knowledge of easy shaving; while ordinary intelligence combined with shrewd observation, will go far towards making one a master of his art.
“It appears,” observes a writer[[32]] on the subject, “that the choice of a razor may quite as well be left to the makers, as determined by the purchaser; however, it sometimes happens, that, exclusive of its goodness, the weight, the poise, &c., of a razor, are circumstances which seem to claim acquaintance with particular hands; and, with regard to these, every one will do well to suit himself.