“I have lately ventured, notwithstanding the long-established notion that weight is a very requisite property in a razor, to recommend those which were deficient in this respect; and I will embrace this opportunity to offer the reasons which influenced my judgment on the subject.
“It does not appear, upon considering by what means a razor acts, that its ponderosity can assist in the operation; the performance depending upon the condition of the edge, abstractedly from its weight; momentum can assist only where force is requisite; thus, in dividing a tough piece of wood, we find that the edge of a knife, however keen, cannot make its way; it becomes necessary, therefore, to use some instrument of more weight, which, being applied by an accelerated action of the arm, becomes equal to the task. The weight of all cutting instruments should be adapted according to the nature of their acting; and if the beard required to be hewn, or chopped off, doubtless, a hatchet, with a sharp edge, would answer the purpose better than a razor; on the contrary, if the beard can be erased by an unforced incision, which is certainly the case, an instrument of no considerable weight, with a proper edge, will always deserve the preference; for the hand, having nothing to overcome in point of weight, performs with more exactness and ease, than it possibly can, when feeling the oppression of weight in the instrument it has to manage.”
As regards hollow-ground razors much can be said in their favour, and many in the trade consider them to be the best, but of this each man must judge for himself. I think that much depends on fancy, and what we are accustomed to, as well as to the mode of treatment. Sometimes it is requisite to put a long-used razor by for a time so as to restore its edge, and the following observations anent “Tired Razors” are à propos of the subject:—Barbers often assert that razors get “tired” of shaving, and that they will work satisfactorily if permitted to rest for a time. It has been found by microscopic examination that the “tired” razor, from long stropping by the same hand, and in the same direction, has the ultimate fibres of its surface or edge all arranged in one direction, like the edge of a piece of cut velvet; but after a month’s rest the fibres rearrange themselves heterogeneously, crossing each other, and presenting a saw-like edge, each fibre supporting its fellow, and hence cutting the beard instead of being forced down flat without cutting.
Razor-setting cannot well be taught—it must, (like tuning a violin)—be acquired. Some persons are unable to set a razor with any degree of certainty, while others become recognised as clever in that branch of the business. The quality of the hone is an important consideration in razor-setting; it should neither be too hard nor too soft. The razor has to be rubbed from heel to point in the usual way, and always turned on the back. The edge should be tried from time to time upon the thumb or finger-nail, until it feels quite smooth and keen, it is then to be fixed or “set.” This is effected by passing the razor to and fro, as lightly as possible and with single strokes upon the hone. Do this for a short time until the edge “bites” the nail as it were, when the setting is completed. Should it not do so, the assumption is that the setting has not gone far enough; the other extreme being when the edge is wiry, and then the setting is overdone. In either case the job is not satisfactory, as the razor is “not in tune,” and will quickly require to be set again.
Stropping assists greatly in fixing the edge of a razor, and perhaps I cannot do better than quote what Mr. Savigny says upon the subject:—
“In strapping a razor, it is necessary to observe, that the thick or hind part bears upon the leather at the same time the edge does: for if the back is raised, the hand loses its only guide; in which case it could not fail of receiving some injury; but if the razor is applied flat, and the strap a proper one, ten or twelve strokes, on each side the blade, will be sufficient to give the edge its necessary refreshment.
“I have always given directions to draw the razor downwards, from the termination of the edge to the point; having experienced that this is the most steady manner the hand can act in; and it is an observation pretty well established, that any thing may be drawn to a much greater degree of exactness, than it can be shoved; and in the present case, were a razor to be pushed upwards along the strap, that is, from the point to the termination of the edge, there would be some danger of its turning on the rivet, and cutting both the leather and the fingers; to be as secure as possible in this respect, it will be well to place the hold just above the rivet, grasping at the same time the handle, and that part of the blade which issues from it.
“The manner in which a proper strap acts upon a razor must necessarily form an edge most suitable for the purpose, as it neither wears it so fast as the hone, nor confines its effects entirely to a flat; by the gentle manner in which it operates, and being in some measure yielding to pressure, it cannot leave that roughness upon the edge, which the hone, on account of its quickness, and the solidity of its surface, is commonly found to produce.”
There cannot be two opinions regarding the importance of a good strop, and its being kept in proper condition, if the edge of a razor is to be considered.
For ordinary use, I give the preference to buff leather mounted upon wood in the old style, but there should always be a layer or two of common leather or other suitable substance between; otherwise there will be a hardness which, to say the least, is not agreeable. Softness and pliability should always be aimed at, and, doubtless, this is why many prefer a long piece of buff securely fastened to the wall. In preparing the leather for shop use, after having cleaned and thoroughly dried it, saturate it with olive oil, and then let it be well dressed with suitable razor paste. (If the leather is intended to be affixed to wood, it must be glued on first and time allowed for the glue to harden.)