While the glue was hardening, the two pieces for the top and bottom were squared up and bevelled with the smoothing plane on the long sides, the block plane on the ends.
The cleats for the top were next made, drilled and countersunk for the screws as at b.
A careful full-sized drawing of half of the top was made, and a chip carving design drawn for it. The cleats were not put on until the carving was finished and short screws had to be used so they would not come through and spoil the surface.
The next day the body of the box was removed from the hand screws and squared with a smoothing plane. The top and bottom were put on with 1-inch brads. These were "set" with a nail punch to prevent any possible scratching and the whole box was rubbed down with wax dissolved in turpentine.
For fine cabinet work, the dovetail joint makes the most satisfactory method of fastening, but Harry was not yet skilled enough to do the fine work it demanded.
The second box was for handkerchiefs, dimensions 8 × 7 × 3 inches outside, and no overhang at either top or bottom. The construction brought in several new features. Sides and ends were dadoed together as in the first box.
The top and bottom, after being squared, were rabbeted on all four sides until they fitted snugly into the opening top and bottom. They were glued in these positions and placed in hand screws over night. ([Fig. 149].)
"How are you going to get into that box?" asked Harry. "You've closed it up solid and glued the top on."
"Wait and see," was all the satisfaction he got.