Fig. 149. The handkerchief box
The next day the hand screws were removed and the box squared up exactly as if it had been a solid piece of wood. Ralph then made two gauge lines around the four sides, 3⁄4 inch from the top and 1⁄8 inch apart. Then he cut the box in two between these two lines with a rip saw, after slightly rounding all corners except the bottom ones with a plane and sand-paper.
By this method, the box and cover must be exactly alike in outline, and by planing to the gauge lines, they will fit perfectly.
It only remained to hinge the two parts together, but this operation proved to be no slight task.
The body was placed in the vise and the cover laid upside down on the bench top. The two parts were brought together as shown at c, and the four knife lines laid out as shown with knife and try square.
The distance between the lines at a and b must be equal to the width of the hinge, and the wood between these lines removed to a depth equal to half the thickness of the hinge at its joint when closed. If too much is removed, the box will be "hinge bound" and will not close in front. If too little is taken out, it will close in front and have an open joint at the back. In the former case, a thickness or two of paper placed under the hinge will often be enough to make it close in front. In the latter case, of course more material must be cut out. It is a delicate operation, as the depth of these cuts for 1-inch hinges is only about 1⁄16 inch. It is a question of accuracy, pure and simple.
Holes for the screws can be made with a brad awl.
The boys made several boxes of various sizes and styles, some plain, some decorated with carving. Pyrography, or burnt work, is frequently used for decoration, and the best wood for this purpose is basswood, because of its white color, softness, and freedom from pitch.
Other woods may be burnt, but pine, which has veins of pitchy sap, is not suitable.