The History of the Most Noble Order of the Garter

by Elias Ashmole

MATERIALS.

That Mantle prepared for the Founder against the first Feast of this Order, appears to be fine Woollen Cloth, and it is not improbable this Material was chosen, rather than any other richer, to the Intent the Founder might give the Preference to our native Commodity, altho’ there’s permitted in the Statutes of Institution a permission for the Proxies of Foreign Princes to bring over with them Mantles of Silk and Velvet when they came to receive possession of their Principal Stalls, either because other Countries were better stored with such Commodities than our English Cloth, or that it might be more agreeable to represent the State and Grandeur of Foreign Princes, as accounting Silk or Velvet the nobler Representation.

What Duration the wearing Cloth had, is not directly set down, but the first time we discover their Mantles to be of Velvet, is about the beginning of the Reign of King Hen. VI. which Sort of Silk hath thence remained until this Day. About this Period, ’tis observed, that the Mantles of Foreign Princes were made here of Velvet, for so was that transmitted to the King of Portugal, elected Anno 1346. Concerning the Mantles of the Knights-Companions, there is no doubt but they were of the same Materials with those made for the Sovereign, viz. at first of fine Woollen Cloth, and when the Sovereign exchanged it for Velvet, they followed his Example; but we cannot meet with equal Satisfaction in this Point, because the Knights-Companions provided this Robe at their own Expence; and their private Accounts herein passing thro’ so many Contingences, were of no great Durability. But their Surcoats were of the Sovereigns Donation, and consequently the Particulars of them remain on Record in the Rolls and Accounts of the great Wardrobe.

The Colour of these Mantles is appointed by the Statutes to be Blue, and of this Colour was the Founders; by which, as by the Ground-work of the Royal Garter, it is not improbable he alluded to the Colour of the Field in the French Arms, which a few Years before he began to Quarter with those of England. But the Colour of the Surcoat was changed every Year, as will appear by and by. Of the same Colour were the Velvet Mantles, made temp. Hen. VI. who tho’ he altered the Stuff, did not vary the Dye. It is apparent, that the blue Colour was retained to King Edw. IVth’s Reign, for when this Sovereign transmitted the Habit and Ensigns of the Order to Julian de Medicis, the Mantle was of blue Velvet.

But in King Hen. VIIIth’s Statutes there’s no mention at all of the Colour of this upper Robe, save only of the Mantle, which the Proxy of a Foreign Prince was enjoined to bring with him when he came to assume the Stall of his Principal; which, tho’ it does not come directly up to the Point, yet it is to be observed to be of blue Velvet. And it’s highly probable that the blue Colour remained still to be used; for within a few Months after the compiling the said Statutes, it’s plain, the Mantle sent to James King of Scotland, was of blue Velvet, and in the ancient Form of Admonition and Signification appointed to be spoke at the Investiture of Foreign Princes, and then in Plea it is called the Mantle of celestial Colour. Likewise the Mantle sent to Emanuel Duke of Savoy, 1 and 2 Ph. and Mar. was of the same Composure.

In Queen Elizabeth’s Reign, upon what Ground History is silent, the Colour of Foreign Prince’s Mantles was changed from Blue to Purple, for of that Colour were the Mantles sent to the French Kings, Charles IX. Anno. 6 Eliz. and Hen. III. Ann. 27 Eliz. So also to the Emperor Maximilian 9 Elizabeth, to Fredrick II. King of Denmark, An. 24 Eliz. to Joh. Casimire Count Palatine of the Rhine, Anno 21 Eliz. to Christiern IV. King of Denmark, An. J. R. IV. But that sent to Frederick Duke of Wirtemberg in the same Year, was a mix’d Colour of Purple and Violet.

Thus the Purple Colour came in Request, and continued till about the 12 of King Charles I. when he determining to restore the Colour of the Mantle to the primitive Institution, gave Directions to Mr. Peter Richaut, Merchant, to provide himself with a Quantity of rich blue Velvets from Genoa; and upon their arrival into England, signify’d his Pleasure by Sir Thomas Rowe the Chancellor, That all Knights-Companions should purchase as much of the said Velvet as would furnish them with new Robes against St. George’s-Day next ensuing; compliance to whose Will, all the Knights paid Obedience, at the Rate of Thirty seven Shillings a Yard, being the Price the Sovereign paid to Mr. Richaut for the Velvet of his own Robes. And the first Essay of these Mantles was to honour the Installation of the Prince, afterwards King Charles II.

And because there were many Knights-elect to be installed after the Restoration, it was ordained at the Chapter held at Whitehall the 14th of Jan. Anno 12. Car. 2. (called to consider of the Preparations of the grand Feast then at hand), That Directions should be given to the Master of the Wardrobe to negotiate Abroad for excellent Velvets of Skie Colour, and Crimson, and other Materials agreeable for the Mantles and Surcoats, both of the old Knights-Companions, and those that were then to be installed; which was accordingly effected, and they were transmitted in time to accommodate them at the said Feast.

Tho’ the just Number of Ells of Cloth for the Sovereigns Mantle at the first Institution are not set down, yet in the Total for his Mantle, Hood, and Surcoat, there was allowed ten Ells of long Cloth. The Mantle of King Henry VI. took up one Piece, five Ells and three Quarters of blue Velvet; and those sent to Frederick II. and Christian IV. Kings of Denmark; and to the French King, Henry III. contained each twenty Yards of Velvet.

This we find to be the Allowance for Foreign Princes, and are the more full and extensive, by reason of their long Train, which being more scanty in the Mantles of Knights-Subjects, eighteen Yards was sufficient to make one of them. The full Length of King Charles II. from the Collar behind to the end of the Train, was three Yards the Length of the foreside, one Yard and three Quarters from the Foot along the bottom to the fixing on of the Train, was two Yards, and from thence the Length or Compass of the Train, two Yards.