The History of the Most Noble Order of the Garter

by Elias Ashmole

The left Shoulder of each of these Mantles have from the Institution been adorned with a large fair Garter, containing this Motto, Honi soit qui mal y pense. These were distinguished from the lesser Garters, anciently embroider’d upon the Surcoats and Hoods of the Sovereigns and Knights-Companions, by the Name of Garters Gross.

Within this Garter was the Arms of St. George, viz. Argent a Cross Gules, and was heretofore wrought in Sattin, with Gold, Silver and Silk; but in descending Times greater Expence and Magnificence became the Practice of the Order, for it was embordered upon Velvet with Damask, Gold, and sundry Sorts of Purls, Plates, Venice Twists and Silks, and the Letters of the Motto and Borders of the Garter composed of fair Oriental Pearl. The Garter fix’d upon the Mantle of King Charles II. was encircled with large Oriental Pearl, so were the Letters of the Motto and the Cross within the Garter, the Diameter of which was seven Inches, but the Depth from the upper Part to the end of the Pendant, ten Inches.

Temp. Hen. VI. it seems to have been the Mode to embellish the Mantle with three or four Velts drawn down the sides, and round the bottom, as it appears by the Monument of John Talbot Earl of Shrewsbury in the South-wall of the Chancel of Whitechurch in Com. Salop.

About that Time the Lining of this Robe was white Damask, and afterwards white Sattin; but of later Date it was lined with white Taffaty, which continues yet in vogue.

For exemplary Ornament, the Mantle had fixed to its Collar a pair of long Strings, anciently woven of blue Silk only (called Cordons, Robe-strings or Laces); but of later Days, twisted round and made of Venice Gold and Silk of the Colour of the Robe, at each end of which hung a great Knob or Button, wrought over and raised with a rich Caul of Gold, and Tassels thereunto of like Silk and Gold.

And at the Collar was usually fixed an Hook and Eye of Gold for its firmer affixing of it to the Shoulders.

§. 3. The Third Ensign of the Order is the Surcoat or Kirtle, which altho’ we find no Place for it in the Founder’s Statutes, is nevertheless as ancient as the Mantle or upper Robe, that is only taken Notice of there, for such a Vesture King Edward III. then made, together with his Mantle and a Hood to celebrate the first Feast of the Order in.

Its Original it owes to the Greeks and Romans; amongst whom this Garment had its determinated Tunica, and was worn next under the Toga, but amongst them was both narrower and shorter; it was girt close to the Body with a Girdle, and so fitted, that the Hem of it reached a little below the Knee, or to the middle of the Ham. It was the proper Mode of the Roman Citizens, and by its trimming were the three Degrees among them known; for the Senators Tunicks were embroidered or purfled over with broad purple Studs, the Knights with narrow ones, and the Plebeians plain.

In setting forth the Surcoat, which was heretofore annually bestowed by the Sovereign or the Knights-Companions, and therefore called his Livery, we shall, as in the Description of the Mantle, treat somewhat of the Name, Materials, Colour, Quantity and Garnishing of it.

As to the Name in the old Rolls of the great Wardrobe, it is stiled Roba, but more properly as the Founder’s first Surcoat is called Tunica, which Name it bears in the red Book of the Order. In English it is rendred Gown, Kirtle, Surcoat, Undercoat and Robe. The Appellation of Gown is attributed to Surcoats of the Sovereigns and Foreign Princes, Temp. Hen. VI. Edw. IV. and Hen. VII. But since, and very lately, it hath been bestowed also on the Surcoats of Knights-Companions; and that of Kirtle sometimes given to those sent to Foreign Princes, as appears by the Books of Warrants in the great Wardrobe, but the rest are Terms of a later Date: As the first Mantles, so the first Surcoats were composed of Woollen Cloth, and tho’ the Cloth of the Mantles was in some space after changed for Velvet, yet the Surcoats continued afterwards to be of Cloth, at least till after the Office of Chancellor of the Garter was erected by King Edward IV. as is manifest by the Precedent of this Livery in the Sovereigns great Wardrobe; but in process of Time they became Velvet, which sort of Silk is yet retained.