In the afternoon, the capacious square in front of our hotel was enlivened with thousands of promenaders gaily and richly dressed. The fashionable Grecian ladies, however, made no display of the "Grecian Bend." A company of politicians passed us—directly a row ensued, and one was stabbed to the heart a few steps from where we stood.
We took steamer for Alexandria and arrived here early this morning. We had fine weather, a smooth sea the whole distance, and no sickness, a very remarkable circumstance. We remain here four days, and then proceed by rail to Cairo, one hundred and thirty miles distant.
Port Said, Egypt, February 22d, 1873.
We have now completed our tour in Egypt, which in many respects has proved the most agreeable and interesting of any country we have visited in regard to its physical appearance, and the character, religion, customs and manners of its inhabitants. It occupies the northeastern part of Africa, and embraces nearly six millions of people—Egyptians, Turks, Arabs, Greeks, Armenians, Jews, Syrians and Mamelukes. The great majority are husbandmen, and their social condition of a low grade, generally ignorant and uneducated and fond of frivolous amusements. The climate being warm, and their style of living cheap and simple, their habitations consisting chiefly of low mud huts, very little labor or expense is required for the maintenance of families. I noticed, in passing through many of their mud villages, that they appeared to be swarming with children. We were told, and from personal observation believed it to be true, that in Egypt the practice of raising offspring is the general rule and is fashionable and popular, and that the estimation in which the wife is held by her husband, and even by her acquaintances, depends in a great measure upon her fruitfulness and the preservation of her children. By men and women, whether rich or poor, barrenness is considered a curse and a reproach, and it is regarded, also, as disgraceful in a man to divorce, without some substantial reason, a wife who has borne him a child, especially while her child is living. If a woman desires a husband's love, or the respect of others, her giving birth to a child is a source of great joy to her and him, making her own interest a sufficient motive for maternal tenderness. Children here appear to have great respect for their parents. We are informed that an undutiful child is scarcely known among the Egyptians or Arabs, and whenever such an instance does occur, being considered one of the greatest crimes, its punishment is very severe. It is said that cases are very rare in Egypt of wives being unfaithful to their husbands.
In visiting the Turkish mosques, we observed that there were no pictures, images, statues or altars, which universally decorate the cathedrals in Catholic countries. Friday is their day for worship. The public service commences about noon by reading portions of the Koran, and delivering sermon or addresses by the "Imens." They hold Moses in profound reverence, and also Jesus Christ, but Mahomet as God's last and greatest prophet. Their creed is, "There is no Deity but God, and Mahomet is God's apostle." Adam, Noah, Abraham, Moses and Jesus Christ were all God's servants in their various ages, but the greatest and best is Mahomet.
The Copts are avowed Christians, the descendants of the ancient Egyptians, and are very numerous. They have regular convents, nunneries, monasteries and about two hundred churches. The other religions are the Greek Church and the Latin or Roman Catholic.
But little attention is paid to education. Parents generally content themselves with instilling into the minds of their children a few principles of religion. The child, as early as possible, is taught to say, "I testify that there is no Deity but God, and I testify that Mahomet is God's apostle." The boys are placed under a schoolmaster to be instructed in a few simple rudiments of education. The common manner of instruction is to sit upon the ground or floor, pupils and schoolmaster, each boy with his tablet in hand or a portion of the Koran or a kind of desk of palm sticks. All the boys recite or chant this lesson aloud, at the same time rocking their heads and bodies incessantly backward and forward, this practice being thought to assist the memory.
While in this country I have not witnessed a single case of intoxication, though I have been in many places of large gatherings for general amusement. On every occasion the people were remarkably orderly—no boisterous speeches, loud talking or laughter. In these large crowds, and at hotels where only Egyptian servants and Arabs were employed, I considered my little effects more secure than at American or European establishments.
The dress of the men of the middle and higher classes consists generally of the following articles: First, a pair of drawers of linen or cotton, tied around the body by a draw-string or band, the ends of which are embroidered with fancy colored silk. The drawers descend a little below the knees or to the ankles. Next is worn a shirt, with full sleeves reaching to the wrists, which is made of linen or cotton, muslin or silk; over this is worn a garment of silk or cotton descending to the ankles, having long sleeves. The costume of men of the lower classes is very simple. These, if not of the very poorest class, wear drawers, or shirt or gown with wide sleeves, and a woolen girdle or broad red belt. Their turban is generally composed of a white, red or yellow woolen shawl, but we saw many different forms of turbans; the common style among the servants consists of several spiral twists, one above another, like the threads of a screw. Those worn by the upper class are of a better style. The dress of the Egyptian ladies is much after the fashion of that of men, but more elegant.
The Mohammedans, like the Christians, are divided into various religious societies, each having its peculiar tenets and practices. The Dervishes constitute an important sect—are very numerous, and in many parts of Egypt are highly respected. Their customs and modes of worship are singular and curious. Sometimes they enter a solitary cell, remain forty days and nights, fasting from daybreak till sunset, employing their time in imploring forgiveness, praising God, etc. Their religious exercises consist chiefly in the performance of what is called "zikers." Sometimes standing in the form of a circular or an oblong ring, or in two rows facing each other, sometimes sitting, they exclaim or chant "Lailah, Ella-llah!" (there is no Deity but God;) "Allah! Allah! Allah!" (God! God! God!) or repeat other invocations until their strength is nearly exhausted, accompanying their ejaculations or chants with a motion of the head, or of the whole body.