I felt a great curiosity to witness their manner of worship—fortunately an opportunity presented. We took carriages, accompanied by a Dervish guide of some distinction, and proceeded to one of their mosques in Cairo. We were requested to take off our boots before entering the building—their places of worship being considered sacred and holy. About fifty Dervishes were standing in the form of a semi-circle—their head priest in the centre. They were bowing their heads and bodies nearly to the floor, simultaneously and very rapidly, keeping time to miserably wretched music, their long, flowing hair and wild, fanatical expressions, together with their horrible ejaculations and howls, made them appear more like lunatics or demons than rational beings. They continued their exercises about fifteen minutes, until, becoming exhausted, they rested a few moments, then commenced repeating the ceremonies. One of them, either through a high state of religious enthusiasm or vehemence of exertion, with a terrible groan, fell prostrate, foaming at the mouth, his eyes closed, his limbs convulsed and his fingers clenched. The Dervishes were pleased with this occurrence, considering it a divine manifestation, which increased their enthusiasm. At length the presiding Dervish raised the fallen man and placed him in the circle in charge of two of his companions. Another occurrence of similar character happened previously to our leaving the mosque. While these exercises were going on, two Dervishes stepped inside the circle and commenced whirling around, using both feet to produce the motion, extending their arms and spinning around like tops, with great velocity. I expected every moment to see them precipitated headlong upon the floor, but having continued nearly ten minutes, they joined the circle, apparently but little exhausted.
We were pleased with our visit in Alexandria, and with our Hotel de l'Europe, which nearly equals the first-class hotels in America. Pompey's Pillar, Cleopatra's Needle, the Catacombs, Museum of Antiquities, etc., received a due share of our attention. But little improvement is at present being made in Alexandria, compared with that of Cairo—it seems merely of importance as a maritime city.
In traveling in Egypt along the delta of the Nile, wherever its waters can reach by overflow or irrigation, the soil is remarkably rich, fertile and productive. Heavy growths of wheat, barley, clover, cane, cotton, with now and then a field of flax, also fields of beans, orange, lemon and fine vegetable gardens, with peach trees now in full bloom.
In passing from Cairo to Ismalia, we saw one steam plow in operation but generally the ground is cultivated by rudely constructed plows drawn by oxen or an ox and camel yoked together, sometimes by two camels.
We have visited Suez and looked upon the beautiful waters of the famous Red Sea, and enjoyed a delightful sail over a portion of the great Suez Canal.
This afternoon we leave by steamer for Jaffa, where we arrange for our Palestine tour, which will occupy about four weeks, and be performed on horseback.
Lorenzo Snow.
LETTER VII.
Jaffa.—Traveling arrangement.—Place where the Ark was built.—House of Simon the Tanner.—Mohammedan funeral ceremony.—Plains of Sharon.—A night in the desert.—Battlefield of David and Goliath.—Rose of Sharon.—Mount Zion.—Mount of Olives.—Jerusalem.—Rachel's Tomb.—Solomon's Pools.—Church of the Nativity.—Studio of St. Jerome.—Shepherds' field.—Jordan River.—Dead Sea.