The port was crowded with ships, steamers, barges, ferries and small boats, so numerous that they appeared as if swarming on the waters, numbering many thousands. This magnificent bay accommodates twelve hundred sail, and is sufficiently deep to float ships of war of the largest magnitude.
For advantages of trade and commerce, and for beauty of situation, Constantinople undoubtedly excels all other cities in the world. It stands upon two continents, Europe and Asia, and upon two seas, the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmora. Its population is variously estimated at from five hundred thousand to eight hundred thousand; of these about three hundred thousand are Greeks and Armenians, sixty thousand Jews, and thirty thousand Europeans. It contains forty colleges, one thousand mosques, many Jewish synagogues, and numerous Catholic churches.
We visited the American Minister, and spent a few hours in his company very pleasantly. We have made it an invariable rule to call on our American Ministers and Consuls, and, without an exception, have been courteously and kindly received, and in several instances our company has been solicited. Our cards and letters of introduction from President Young, on every occasion, have been noticed and honored.
While in Constantinople we visited the principal mosques, the tombs of the sultans, the offices of the Sublime Porte, the Treasury, Armory, Mint, Repository of Antiquities, the bazars and the Palace of the Osmanli Sultans, the Royal Seraglio. The Mosque of St. Sophia, which we inspected, in several respects is the most remarkable edifice in the Turkish empire. It is three hundred and fifty feet in length, by two hundred and thirty-five in breadth. It was built for a Catholic temple in the sixth century, by the Emperor Justinian, and was sixteen years in course of construction. At that time it was celebrated as the most remarkable and magnificent temple in the whole empire. In the fifteenth century it was converted into a mosque, through the conquering sword of Mohammed the Second, at the capture of Constantinople. It has two flags suspended on either side of the pulpit, indicating the victory of Islam over Judaism and Christianity, and the Koran over the Old and New Testaments. The roof is constructed in such a manner that it exhibits nine cupolas, the great dome forming the highest summit, and so arranged that it appears as if suspended in the air; the whole seen together presents an appearance of singular grandeur and magnificence. The walls and numerous arches are built of brick; the interior of the building is adorned with the richest and most costly materials—granite, marble and porphyry of every description; black marble with white veins, white marble with rose-colored stripes, green and blue marble, and Bosphorus marble with black veins. We counted eight large porphyry columns, which were taken from the "Temple of the Sun," at Baalbec, and six or eight of green columns of porphyry, which our guide informed us were from the Temple of Diana at Ephesus. The floor is formed of variegated marble with waving lines, imitating the movings of the ocean. The tiles which cover the arches of the cupolas were made at Rhodes, of chalk-white clay of peculiar lightness, being only one-twelfth of the usual weight; and had inscribed upon them, "God has founded it, and it will not be overthrown: God will support it in the blush of the dawn." It has sixteen gates of bronze, adorned with crosses; the spaces between them are decorated with beautiful marble, and above them are mosaic pictures. The central dome is one hundred and seven feet in diameter, with a rise of forty-six feet, and with an elevation of one hundred and eighty feet above the ground, with semi-domes on two sides, of equal diameter. The grand dome is supported by arches resting on four immense piers, supported by abutments. Its numerous arches, pillars and cupolas are all inlaid with marble mosaics of the most beautiful designs. In the cupola are inscribed the following words from the Koran: "God is the light of the heavens and the earth." On ceremonial occasions, during the night, these expressive words are illuminated by thousands of lamps, suspended in circles, one above another, which, aided by attachments of ostrich eggs, and quantities of tinsel, and numerous artificial flowers, are said to produce a wonderful effect.
One hundred architects, during the construction of this mosque, superintended ten thousand masons, five thousand working on one side, the other half at the same time engaged on the opposite side of the building. It is said of the Emperor, that during the progress of the work he paid occasional visits, to inspire the workmen, dressed in coarse linen, a cloth around his head, and a rough stick in his hand. When the walls had reached about six feet above the ground, an expenditure of about twenty-two tons of gold had been incurred; and a traditionary account is given, that when this extraordinary structure had been completed as far as the cupolas, the funds were exhausted, and the people groaning and murmuring under the heavy burden of imposed taxes; whereupon an angel appeared, and, leading the mules of the treasury to a subterranean vault, loaded them with four tons of gold!
We went aboard an Austrian Lloyd steamer, April 5th, and steered for Athens, the capital of Greece. In going down the Archipelago, the usual dulness and monotony of ocean life was partially relieved by the changing scenery and charming views, constantly exhibited on the numerous islands we were passing. Syra especially attracted attention; the picturesque appearance of its capital city of thirty thousand people drew expressions of surprise and admiration. Stopping a few hours at anchorage gave opportunity of inspecting this locality. The city is built on a gigantic, conical hill, rising steeply from the shore in a semi-circle, over a mile in width, extending to an immense height; its narrow and pointed summit crowned with a large cathedral; the whole hill, with its indentures and depressions, covered from base to summit with elegant buildings painted white, with green window shutters, blue cornices and balustrades.
It chanced to be a holiday with the Greeks—they were celebrating their independence. Flags were floating from the tops of buildings and tall masts of the ships in the harbor. At night, before our departure, there was a grand illumination, in which the entire city and ships at anchor participated. The appearance altogether was very striking.
We arrived at Piraeus, the seaport of Athens, 7th ult., having experienced a favorable passage. We took carriage and drove to Athens, five miles distant, over a beautiful road, skirted with poplar and pepper trees.
Munich, Bavaria, April 22d, 1873.
The whole of the modern city of Athens has been built within the last forty-five years. It is situated about five miles from the sea, on the Plain of Attica. Many of the buildings possess some architectural beauty, which, combined with their yellow-washed stucco, present an agreeable and lively appearance. Olive groves, the scene of Plato's meditations, stretching along the plain, the trees and shrubbery in the Queen's garden, an orange grove fronting the King's Palace, pepper trees skirting the boulevards, a few cypresses and Italian poplars, form the principal foliage which is seen in and around Athens. The Queen's garden attached to the Palace is a beautiful enclosure of several acres, extending along the boulevards and partially encircling the palace, and adorned with rich shrubbery, flowerbeds, luxurious foliage, grass-plats, artificial waters and winding gravel walks. Fronting the palace is a small, enclosed area, decorated with orange trees; in the centre is a fine fountain surrounded with seats for the convenience of promenaders. The trees were constantly dropping their golden fruit here and there, on the gravelly walks, but left untouched by the multitude of pedestrians. The King's Palace is the most conspicuous building in Athens. It is located on a gently rising eminence at the foot of Mount Lycabettis, and facing what is termed the "Square of the Constitution." On this square, September, 1843, the people and troops assembled, and continued ten hours without any act of violence, waiting for King Otho to grant the request of their leaders in signing the constitutional charter, to which, at last, he reluctantly consented. The front of the palace has a portico constructed of marble—the walls of the building are composed of broken limestone faced with cement.