The Acropolis is a vast rock, rising to the height of three hundred and fifty feet above the plain, with a flat summit, about one thousand feet long by five hundred broad. The Areopagus, or Hill of Mars, is a lower eminence, forming a kind of offshoot to the Acropolis. The remains of the celebrated Temple of Jupiter Olympus occupy a broad square of ground a little eastward of the Acropolis. Fifteen Corinthian columns of immense size are now standing, out of one hundred and twenty-four, which formerly covered a space of three hundred and fifty-four feet, by a breadth of one hundred and seventy-one feet. These marble columns are fifty-five feet in height and six feet four inches in diameter. One of the marble beams, supported by these gigantic columns, is said to weigh twenty-three tons. We noticed one of the pillars which had been thrown down in a high wind—it is formed of eighteen sections. It is estimated that three thousand dollars would be required to set up these sections and restore the pillar to an upright position, which will afford a faint idea of the cost of erecting the entire building.
We ascended the Acropolis to inspect its stupendous and melancholy ruins. When it stood in the fulness of its splendor, the whole summit was occupied with temples, sanctuaries, statuary and monuments; only sufficient now remain to show their former grandeur and magnificence. There were the marble temples of Minerva, Propylaca, Wingless Victory, the Erectheum and the Parthenon; also gigantic statues of Grecian deities, from forty to sixty feet in height, on lofty pedestals decorated with ivory and gold, glistening in the sunlight. Some of these colossal statues could be seen from the decks of vessels, standing a long distance out at sea. A few massive columns of temples are seen sustaining huge marble beams, over twenty feet in length. In the Propylacan Temple, quantities of black marble were used in its construction, and, the same as other heathen sanctuaries, was adorned with costly paintings and historical decorations. The entire expense of this building has been estimated at about two and a half millions of dollars. The Parthenon is built entirely of marble, and is two hundred and twenty-eight feet long by one hundred and one broad. Its ceiling is supported the same as that of the Propylacan, by huge marble beams, resting on massive columns. One of the doorways is thirty-three feet in height and sixteen feet wide; the head of the doorway is formed of marble lintels, nearly twenty-seven feet in length. The Erectheum has a number of standing columns, supporting massive marble beams and lintels over doorways; most of this temple, however, lies in a heap of superb ruins. The frieze of this building was composed of black marble, adorned with figures in low relief, in white marble. The surface of the Acropolis is mostly spread with ruins, broken pillars, pieces of entablatures and sculptured fragments.
The Greeks have some very peculiar customs. When, after a lengthy absence, friends meet, or when parting for a considerable time, it is usual to kiss one another on the cheek. I have noticed in Athens, the same as in Italy, two gentlemen meeting on the public street, with hats off, demonstrating their affection by hugging and kissing each other in the most violent manner. Many of the Greeks have a habit of carrying in the hand strings of glass or wooden beads, which they manipulate or work with their fingers, while walking the streets or in conversation, the same as the gentleman his watchguard, or twirls his cane, or the lady flirts her fan, having no religious reference as the Catholic in counting his beads.
It is customary to make the sign of the cross in the following manner: Uniting the tips of the thumb and first two fingers of the right hand, and touching alternately the forehead, navel, right breast and left breast, three times in rapid succession, whenever passing a church, seeing the cross, or hearing the name of the Savior spoken. They have a singular form for burying the dead. I witnessed the ceremony of burying two persons, who apparently had occupied respectable positions in society. The processions were preceded by boys in white robes, carrying a crucifix and other ecclesiastic insignia of considerable splendor, followed by priests, chanting in a low, monotonous, melancholy tone, while all hats were off and every hand was making the sign of the cross, as the solemn train was passing along the crowded thoroughfare; the corpse, with ghastly features exposed to full view in an open coffin, covered with white cloth, variously decorated; the lid of the coffin, painted with a large cross, was carried along in the procession, in an upright position. The corpse was dressed in the clothing customarily worn while living; the head partially elevated, and the hands folded in front of a picture of the Virgin, placed on his breast.
Returning from the Museum, we met the King of Greece, who was walking leisurely along the sidewalk, among the citizens, dressed in plain, ordinary costume. His appearance is rather prepossessing; his figure is slight—of medium size, light complexion, and eyes expressive of both kindness and determination. He has the reputation of honesty and frankness—without affectation, and his domestic life above reproach, and makes the welfare and improvement of his people a direct aim and constant study. He is about twenty-eight years of age—married the daughter of the Grand Duke Constantine of Russia, and has a family.
The Greek Church and Greek nation may be considered synonymous words, as one cannot exist without the other, being interwoven like cotton and woolen threads in a garment. It is a strong prevailing feeling in the people, that, as the church cannot exist without the people, so the people cannot exist as a nation without the church. The banners of the revolution were constantly blessed by the bishops, and among the first victims of that revolution was the Greek Patriarch of Constantinople. In fact the first article of the constitution makes the Greek Church the corner stone of the political fabric. It is as follows: "The dominant religion of Greece is that of the Orthodox Oriental Church of Christ. All other recognized religions are tolerated, and the free exercise of worship is protected by law. Proselytism and all other interferences, prejudicial to the dominant religion, are forbidden." Therefore any attempt made by Protestants, in the way of proselyting, is regarded with suspicion.
Mr. Francis, the American minister, invited our party to spend an evening at his residence. We had a pleasant time with the minister, his lady and son, also Mr. Goodenough, the Consul General of Constantinople, who was spending a few days in Athens. In conversation with these people, we gathered interesting items in reference to modern Greece, the king and government. Mr. Francis' fine abilities and conversational talent drew around him many visitors especially Americans. Mrs. Francis is a lady of intelligence, of lively disposition and polite manners.
We left Athens on the evening of the twelfth, on an Austrian Lloyd steamer, for Trieste, Austria, where we arrived on the seventeenth, after a pleasant passage. This is a charming town, built in the form of a crescent, on rounded and conical hills and mountain acclivities. It is surrounded with beautiful scenery. The city has a population of about one hundred thousand. We were shown many objects of attraction and curiosity.
The nineteenth, we took train for Munich, the capital of Bavaria, through the Brenner Pass, by the way of Verona, a town in Italy. Our route led through an interesting country, under an excellent state of tillage—the landscape covered with verdure and rich in luxurious foliage, the apple, plum, apricot, cherry and chestnut adorned with blossoms, and the vine clothed with leaves; patches of clover, grain in full growth, green pastures and meadows, and off in the distance a long high range of mountains, with summits mantled in snow. We arrived at Verona in the evening and remained over Sunday.
The country from Verona to Munich is in the highest state of cultivation, abounding in fields of grain, vegetable gardens, fruit orchards and vineyards; nearly the whole region is dotted with walnut, apple, cherry, apricot, plum and mulberry, the grapevine stretching from one tree to another, clinging to the branches, while below flourish luxuriant gardens or waving grain. We passed over a narrow, winding vale, extending over seventy miles, skirted by lofty mountains and adorned with towns and villages, and churches here and there, on high plateaus above the plain; streamlets are seen now and then dashing and foaming over rocky steps, producing cascades of great beauty and grandeur. We noticed images of the Savior, nearly life-size, representing His crucifixion, and secured to posts placed here and there along the public road. Women were laboring in the fields, driving plow, spading ground, scattering manure, and some in tops of trees trimming the branches.