Note.—The illustrations, with one exception, are from reproductions of
photographs taken by the authors.
| FACE PAGE | |
| A Ya-Yieh or Yamen Runner | [Frontispiece] |
| Cart used in the Osh District | [26] |
| Daoud and Sattur | [41] |
| Watering Horses in the Tuman Su | [56] |
| Kashgar Women and Children | [58] |
| Water-Carriers at Kashgar | [60] |
| Shoeing in the Kashgar Bazar | [62] |
| A Kashgar Grandmother | [64] |
| Priest at the Temple of Pan Chao | [67] |
| Kashgar City (showing the city wall and Tuman Su) | [68] |
| Women at the Shrine of Hazrat Apak | [69] |
| Chinese Soldiers at the Kashgar Yamen | [74] |
| Jafar Bai displaying the Visiting Card | [77] |
| Study of Kashgar Women | [82] |
| Ruins of the Buddhist Tim, Kashgar | [85] |
| The Shrine of Bibi Anna | [93] |
| Fording the Gez River | [109] |
| Kirghiz Women in Gala Dress | [118] |
| Loading up the Yaks | [124] |
| Bringing in an Ovis Poli (Nadir with rifle) | [146] |
| (a) The Game of Baigu—the Mêlée | [150] |
| (b) The Game of Baigu—the Pick-up | [150] |
| (c) The Game of Baigu—the Victor | [150] |
| Nasir Ali Khan, a Muki of Sarikol | [156] |
| Sarikoli Dancers | [158] |
| Muztagh Ata—The Snout of a Glacier | [162] |
| A Kirghiz and his Daughter | [164] |
| Kashgar Musicians | [170] |
| Our Arabas on the Yarkand Road | [176] |
| A Hunting Eagle | [182] |
| Ferry on the Yarkand River | [192] |
| The Pigeon Shrine | [206] |
| Beggars at the Gate | [212] |
| A Dulani Shaykh | [222] |
| Dulani Musicians | [224] |
| A Dulani Woman and her Son | [226] |
| The Tian Shan or Celestial Mountains | [236] |
| The Tungani Commander of the Troops at Khotan | [242] |
| Tamerlane | [268] |
| A Load of Clover from Isa Haji’s Farm | [302] |
| The Sons of Isa Haji ploughing | [304] |
| A Magician and his Disciple | [314] |
| A Kashgar School | [316] |
| A Woman throwing Mud to effect a Cure | [320] |
| Ovis Poli—the 51-inch head | [328] |
| Hunting-Dogs with Kirghiz owner | [330] |
| MAPS | |
| Supplementary Sketch Map showing Country to the East ofRoute Map | [275] |
| Map to illustrate Authors’ Routes | [(In pocket at end of volume)] |
ERRATUM
Page 134, line 22, for “there was no sign of a division” read
“it was broken up into islands.”
PART I
CHAPTER I
ACROSS THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE IN WAR TIME
The cities are called Taskent[1] and Caskayre,[1] and the people that warre against Taskent are called Cassaks[1] of the law of Mahomet, and they which warre with the said countrey of Caskayre are called Kirghiz, Gentiles and idolaters.—Anthony Jenkinson.
On March 5, 1915, my brother and I started off on our long journey to Kashgar, the capital of Chinese Turkestan, where he was to act for Sir George Macartney, the well-known Consul-General, who was taking leave.
Owing to the War, we were obliged, as the first stage of our journey, to travel to Petrograd by the circuitous route through Norway, Sweden and Finland. The small Norwegian steamer, the Iris, in which we embarked at Newcastle, made its way up the coast of Scotland to a point opposite Peterhead in order to avoid mines and submarines, after which it crossed to Bergen. We passed two choppy nights in stuffy cabins with the portholes tightly screwed up, and I was too prostrate with sea-sickness to care when the engines of our steamer stopped dead during the first afternoon. My brother rushed up on deck to see if we were held up by a German submarine, which might mean the unpleasant experience of internment for him, but after a couple of hours we went on again, and no explanation of the delay was given us.