How soon the young Hindūs begin to comprehend idolatry! A group of children from four to seven years old were at play; they had formed with mud on the ground an image of Hunoomān, after the fashion of those they had seen on the river-side; and they had made imitations of the sweetmeat (pera) in balls of mud, to offer to their puny idol.
I was at Benares eight years ago (in November, 1836); the river since that time has undermined the ghāts, and has done so much damage, that, in another ten years, if the Ganges encroach at an equal rate, but little will remain of the glory of the most holy of the Hindū cities. The force of the stream now sets full upon the most beautiful cluster of the temples on its banks; some have been engulphed, some are falling, and all will fall ere long; and of the Bāiza Bā’ī’s ghāt, which was so beautiful when last I visited the place, nothing now remains but the ruins! Her Highness objected greatly to the desire of the Government, to force her to live in this holy city: poor lady! her destiny exemplifies the following saying—“He who was hurt by the bel (its large fruit falling on his head) went for refuge to the bābūl, (the prickles of which wounded his feet,) and he that was hurt by the bābūl fled to the bel[50].”
The Rajah of Sattara resides a state prisoner at Bunarus.
A buggy is to be hired at Secrole for four rupees eight ānās a day, which is preferable to a palanquin: in visiting the city the better way is to quit your buggy, and proceed in a tānjān, if you wish to see the curious and ancient buildings to advantage.
I am so much fagged with the excitement of the day, gazing and gazing again, that I can write no more, and will finish this account with an extract from the “Directory.” “Benares on the left bank is considered as the most holy city in India, and is certainly one of the most handsome when viewed at a distance on the river, there being such numerous stone ghāts and temples, some of which cost seventeen lākh of rupees. It is the residence of some native princes, pensioners of the Hon. East India Company, but their dwellings are divided into so many little chambers or pigeon-holes, that the internal part of the city has the appearance of a mass of mean buildings, piled up without any regard to order and appearance, and narrow filthy lanes instead of streets.
“There is a large enclosed mart, called a chauk, which opens at 5 P.M., where trinkets, toys, birds, cloth, and coarse hardware are exposed for sale. It has a large well in it, and is also a resort for native auctions. Close to the chauk is the principal alley or mart for gulbadan, a very fine silk of various patterns worn by natives as trowsers; also fine caps with tinselled crowns, and very elegant gold and silver embroidery; also scarfs and turbans, and pieces for fancy head-dresses. There is likewise a traveller’s chauk, or native inn, and a large horse mart, where very fine horses, of the Turkī, Persian, and Cabul breeds are procurable,—as high as eight, ten, or fifteen thousand rupees,—that are brought here by the fruit-carriers, who bring grapes and pears from those countries. Here are several miniature painters, and also venders of miniatures on ivory, said to be likenesses of different native princes, their queens, and nāch girls; and also true likenesses of native servants in costume, tradesmen, and beggars. Delhi jewellery of the best gold is brought on board the steamers by sending for the dealers. Here is also an old observatory, and two very high and slender minarets, one of which has a slight inclination; travellers ascending them are expected to give to the keeper the fee of a rupee. From their tops is a fine view of the city, the adjacent country, and the river,—so gratifying a sight should not be passed over by any traveller. Provisions are procurable; partridges, quail, and wild ducks of all sorts, are to be obtained. Steamers remain at Rāj ghāt to take in passengers, to discharge and take in packages, and to receive coals. The civil and military station is about four miles inland, direct from Rāj ghāt, where reside the commissioner, the judge, the magistrates, the collectors, the general, and all the officers of the native regiments quartered here, and some European artillery.
“Letters must be sent for to the post-office, as they are not forwarded, which is very inconvenient. The city is about two miles long: the natives are very uncivil to strangers. Numerous fanatics are here, who drown themselves, believing that the holy Ganga and the city of the most holy secures them eternal happiness. Benares is from Calcutta, viâ Bhagirathī, 696 miles; viâ Sunderbands, 984; and by land or dāk, 428. Letters take four days, banjhīs seven days. Palanquins are procurable here, but they are infested with vile vermin.”
So much for the “Directory,” from which I differ. So far from the distant view of the city giving you the best idea of it,—it is not until you are in the midst of and close to the various and beautiful ghāts and temples just beyond the minārs that you can have an idea of the beauty of Benares. The best conveyance in which to visit and sketch the ghāts is a small boat with an awning.
We passed the residence of the Raja of Benares at Ramnagar, one mile and a half above the city; it is a handsome native palace.