8th.—Passed Chhotā Kalkata, or Sultanpūr-Benares: it is a native cavalry station, seventeen miles above Benares on the left bank of the river. Steamers bring to here occasionally, for a few minutes, to land passengers. It has a kankarī or rocky point, that is very awkward for native boats,—as also for steamers, owing to a narrow channel and strong currents; the point is off the cavalry stables, which are called Little Calcutta.
On our arrival at Chunar we moored the boats at the request of the sarhang, as the dandīs wished to go on shore to buy and sell in the bazār; they carry on a regular traffic at all the stations up the river, and gain a heavy profit on their Calcutta lanterns, pankhas, bundles of cane, cheeses, pickles, and a variety of articles. Chunar is famous for its tobacco, and the men were anxious to lay in a stock for sale at other places.
At a short distance from the landing-place, and to the left of it, is a fine peepul-tree (Ficus religiosa), at the foot of which are a number of idols in stone, placed in an erect position, supported by the trunk. A native woman placed some flowers upon the idols, and poured Ganges water over them from an earthen vessel (a gharā), which she carried on her head. Another was performing a religious and superstitious ceremony, called pradakshina,—that is, she was walking a certain number of times round and round the peepul-tree, with the right hand towards it, as a token of respect, with appropriate abstraction and prayers, in the hope of beautiful offspring. For this reason, also, the Ficus indica is subject to circumambulation. The same ceremony is mentioned in the “Chronicles of the Canongate:” the old sibyl, Muhme, says to Robin Oig, “So let me walk the deasil round you, that you may go safe into the far foreign land, and come safe home.” “She traced around him, with wavering steps, the propitiation, which some have thought has been derived from the Druidical mythology. It consists, as is well known, in the person who makes the deasil walking three times round the person who is the object of the ceremony, taking care to move according to the course of the sun.” Near the peepul-tree was an Hindū temple built of stone, but most excessively disfigured by having been painted red; and next to it was a smaller one of white stone. The whole formed a most picturesque subject for the pencil. Thence I proceeded to the Fort of Chunar, and walked on the ramparts: the little churchyard below was as tranquil as ever, but the tombs having become dark and old, the beauty of the scene was greatly diminished. The Ganges is undermining even the rock on which the fortress is built. The birds’-nests, formed of mud, built under the projections of the black rock on which it stands, are curious; and on some parts of the rock, just above the river, small Hindū images are carved. The “Directory” gives the following account of the place:—“On the right bank, about four miles above Sultanpūr, is Chunar, an invalid station, with a fortification, on an isolated rocky hill, which projects into the river, forming a very nasty point to pass in the rains. It completely commands the river, and is used as a place of confinement for state prisoners. There are several detached rocky hills or stone quarries here. It is a very sickly place, owing to the heat arising from the stone, which causes fever and disease of the spleen. This is a great place for snakes. A little above the fort is a temple: tradition states it to contain a chest, which cannot be opened unless the party opening it lose his hand,—four thieves having so suffered once in an attempt upon it. Very fine black and red earthenware may be purchased here,—such as wine coolers, which, being filled with water after the bottle is inserted, and set out in the draft of the hot easterly winds (none other serves the purpose), in the shade, cools the confined liquor as much as iceing it: the cooler must be dried daily. Also, red sandy water-holders or suries, which keep water very cool; black butter pots, with a casing for water, very neatly finished; and large black double urns, to contain bread, and keep it moist. Steamers seldom stop here more than ten minutes.”
The Padshah Begam, the Queen of Ghazee-ood-Deen Hydur, and Moona Jāh, are in this fortress state prisoners.
Moored our vessels off Turnbull Gunge. Of all the native villages I have seen this is the most healthy-looking; it consists of one very long broad road or street, with houses on each side, built after the native fashion, but on a regular plan; and on each side the road a line of fine trees shade the people as they sit selling their goods in the verandahs of their houses.
The Gunge was built by a Mr. Turnbull, a medical man, who made a large fortune in India when medical men were allowed to trade; the place bears his name, and is situated about two miles higher up the river than Chunar.
9th.—A little beyond Turnbull Gunge is a white mandāp (temple), on the right bank; the top of the spire has been broken off, and it stands by a fine peepul-tree. Just in front of it a bank of hard red mud runs out into the river; the budgerow ran upon it with such violence that many things in the cabin were upset; after this little fright we proceeded very well. The dandīs were particularly miserable on account of the rain; almost every man had clothed himself in a red jacket; for these cast-off military jackets they had given a rupee apiece; they were very proud of them, and afraid of getting them wetted. They wore below the usual native dhotī—i.e. a piece of linen, in lieu of trowsers, above which the European red coat had a curious effect. Anchored on a very fine sandbank in the midst of the river; here we found a chaukidār under a straw thatch, ready for vessels.
10th.—“Seven miles above Chunar, on the right bank, is the village of Kutnac, with rocky bottom and hard lumps of earth in the river; a little above is a ravine, which is to be avoided by all boats.”
“Fourteen miles above Chunar is the crossing ferry of the Benares grand road, and of Kitwa and Bhundoolee to Mirzapūr; thence to the latter place is a fine road, distance seven miles and a half by land, and sixteen by water.