Five weaves are recognized by the Tinguian, but they are really variations of two—checkerwork and the diagonal or twilled.
The first and most simple is known as laga, the technic of which is the passing of each element of the weft under one and over one of the warp elements. Where the warp and weft are of uniform size, as in mats, it is impossible to distinguish the one from the other, but in many cases the weft is the smaller. Fish traps and storage baskets for mangoes and cotton are generally of this type ([Fig. 19], Nos. 1 and 2).
A variation of the laga known as minmináta—“many eyes”—([Fig. 19], No. 3), is found in certain types of carrying baskets, the woven tops of hats, and the like. Here the warp is crossed, and the weft passes through it in regular order so as to produce hexagonal openings.
Another variant is known as kaláwat[16] ([Fig. 19], No. 4). In this the warp stems are in threes. Starting from A they are bent down, pass over and under similar sets of three, curve on themselves or other warp stems so as to leave open spaces between. The rattan wall-hangers for coconut shell dishes are usually in this weave.
Figure 19.
Basket Weaves.
The greater part of the baskets are in the diagonal or twilled weave, in which each element of the weft passes over two or more warp elements. Variations are numerous, either to produce certain Page 423effects or to accommodate designs. Of these the most common are
| 1 under 2 over 2 etc. |
| 2 under 2 over 2 etc. |
| 2 under 4 over 4 etc. |
The weaver also frequently constructs the bottom with 2 over 4 under 4; then when the sides are made he changes to 1 over 2 under 2, until the center is reached; then 1 of the warp passes over 3 of the weft; for the balance the stitch is 1 over 2 under 2. This variation produces a chevron-like pattern which, in general, is known as binakol; but when it is desired to designate more closely, this name is applied to the weaving having an oblique effect ([Fig. 19], No. 5), while the horizontal is known as dinapálig ([Fig. 19], No. 6).