For the time being, the cotillion, or German, has gone very much out of fashion. The modern system of continuous dancing and taking only short turns with each partner, makes it less of a compliment than formerly to engage a young lady for a single dance. Hence special emphasis is now laid on the invitation to supper. A man who wishes to make some return for hospitality extended to him, or to show a young woman particular attention, asks her to go in to supper with him, as he would a few years ago have engaged her for the German. Hence it is very desirable for a girl to have this part of the programme arranged in good season. If she has no partner when the supper-hour arrives, she is in rather an awkward position, especially if she has no chaperon. The man with whom she is talking at the moment will be obliged to excuse himself if he has previously arranged to take in some one else. She should ask him to escort her to her chaperon, if the latter is present, or to the patronesses; or she may retire to the dressing-room or go home. Occasionally one girl joins another who is provided with an escort, but this is seldom advisable, even if the two young women know each other well. Since “Two are company but three are a crowd,” a girl does not wish to spoil her friend’s pleasure by making an unwelcome third member of the party.
If the young lady has a supper-partner, the question may be asked, what becomes of her chaperon at a subscription dance? The latter sometimes goes into the dining-room with one of the older men, or she joins the patronesses. These ladies are now quite independent, and go in to supper with or without male escort, as they find convenient, since few of the husbands attend the dances. The young people march in after the elders, going in pairs, but not arm-in-arm. Sometimes four or five couples arrange to have supper together, and thus make a merry affair of it.
At a dance in a private house, when the musicians play the march which indicates that all is in readiness in the dining-room, the host leads the way thither with the eldest or the most distinguished lady present. The other guests follow without formality. The hostess makes sure that all have preceded her, or, if some of the ladies prefer to remain in the drawing-room, she despatches a gentleman or one of the waiters to attend to their wants. This in case the service is “en buffet.” If little tables are provided for the guests, then all should be seated thereat. Should the supper-room not be large enough to contain these comfortably, the tables should be brought in and distributed about the drawing-rooms and halls. With this arrangement a course supper is provided. The buffet service is easier and calls for fewer waiters to serve the guests. The large table, decked with lights, flowers, and many good things to eat, produces a brilliant effect. As much space as possible is procured by setting all the chairs against the walls of the dining-room. It must be confessed, however, that when the company is large there is often an unpleasant jam in the supper-room.
Bouillon, salads, croquettes, oysters, sandwiches or rolls, ices, fancy cakes, bonbons, and coffee constitute the usual bill of fare, to which other and more expensive dainties, such as terrapin and birds, are sometimes added. For an informal dance the menu may be much simplified. If wine is served, it is usually champagne, although less expensive and less “heady” beverages, such as light Rhine wines, are sometimes substituted. There should always be a punch-bowl filled with lemonade, wine-cup, or punch that is not too strong, placed in the hall or elsewhere for the benefit of thirsty dancers. On a formal occasion a servant ladles this out. At an informal affair the guests help themselves.
At a large public function, such as the Charity Ball in New York, the floor committee make introductions if these are desired, but the guests usually go with their own parties. Where the tickets cost five dollars apiece, in addition to the price of the supper, a certain degree of exclusiveness is attained, although, as we all know, there are many persons who have plenty of money yet lack social culture and experience.
The opening of such an affair is quite imposing. The officers of the ball enter in a grand march, the patronesses coming first on the arms of the governors, the remaining members of the committee following two by two, all the men wearing badges. Where officers of the army and navy take part, their uniforms add to the brilliancy of the general effect. There is usually no reception of guests at such a function, and no formal entrance to the supper-room. The thoughtful man endeavors to have a table reserved for his party when a great many people are present.
All the large hotels in New York now have roof-gardens where there is dancing in the afternoon and evening. Many people go to these as lookers-on, ordering a cup of tea, ices, and coffee or wine. The price of admission in the daytime usually includes the cost of the tea. At certain of the evening resorts the very objectionable custom exists of charging no entrance fee but demanding that guests shall purchase a bottle of champagne. Those who refuse to order wine and insist upon having a milder beverage are furnished with coffee at the price of one dollar for each cup. Careful people do not patronize places of this sort unless they look in for a short time as a matter of curiosity. If they wish to dance, they go to hotels of established reputation, usually in parties of four or six. They can thus have a good time together and be entirely independent of the rest of the company.
“Dinner dances” may be given either at the residence of the hostess or at assembly-rooms, as is most convenient. An entertainment at a private house brings with it an atmosphere of hospitality which is lacking in a hotel ballroom. Hence, if the affair is not on so large a scale as to overcrowd her rooms and if these have good hard-wood floors, the hostess will probably decide to use her own house. If a large number of persons are to be invited, it will be necessary to engage the requisite space at a good hotel. The hostess sends out two sets of invitations; those for the dinner are in her own name, and that of her husband also, with the words “Dancing at eleven” or “ten,” as the case may demand, in the lower left-hand corner. The invitations for the dance are in the name of the hostess alone. They may be in the “At Home” or “Requests the pleasure” form. The hour for the second part of the entertainment must be late enough to insure the termination of the dinner before the arrival of those invited for the dancing only. Great pains must be taken to have the floors in first-class condition, polished sufficiently, yet not made too slippery. For a small dinner dance at a private house, the supper should be a simple affair, served “en buffet.”
The combination “dinner dance” affords a pleasant way of dividing the evening’s hospitality so that no hostess need be unduly burdened. Several friends arrange to give dinners on the same evening, one of the circle undertaking to have a dance at her house, or at an assembly-room if she prefers. In either case she assumes the expense of the occasion; she furnishes the supper, engages the musicians, and the hall also, if the affair takes place there. The guests “go on” in automobiles or omnibuses from the various houses where they have been entertained, meeting at the dwelling of the latest hostess, or at the assembly-room, at ten or eleven o’clock. The dancing usually lasts till one or two o’clock.
For a ball, women wear their handsomest clothes, and married ladies adorn themselves with a profusion of jewels. All appear in décolleté gowns made with short sleeves and more or less train, according to the fashion of the moment. In America many elderly ladies claim exemption from this fashion, thinking the costume inappropriate to persons of their years. Here, at least, we are certainly more sensible than our English sisters, who make a sort of fetish of the low-necked gown. While some American women carry this style to an immodest extreme, the majority are too wise to do so. Ball dresses for married ladies are made of rich and expensive materials—silks, satins, brocades—trimmed with beautiful laces or combined with chiffon or other gauzy stuffs. While a great deal of jewelry is worn, it is well to have a certain unity of effect. The woman who puts on a great variety of jewels combined in a tasteless way may produce a strong impression upon the beholder, but it will not be an agreeable one. For young girls, décolleté gowns of diaphanous material, either white or of a delicate tint, are the most appropriate and becoming. They should wear little jewelry, simplicity being the keynote of their costume. Diamonds and rich laces are not suitable for a débutante. Men wear the regulation evening dress, black swallow-tail coat with trousers to match, low-cut white waistcoat, white dress-shirt, patent-leather shoes or pumps, black socks, white lawn tie, and white or light gloves.