[49]. Service brake lever.
[50]. Demountable rim clamp bolt.
[51]. Differential housing on rear axle.
CHAPTER XXXIX
OVERHAULING THE CAR
Before starting to dismantle the car for overhauling, see that all the necessary tools are at hand and in good condition. Place them out separately on a bench or board near the car. Then secure a number of boxes to hold the parts of each unit in order that they may not become intermixed.
When overhauling is to take place, start at the front of the car and work back. First, disconnect and remove the radiator and inspect the tubes for dents or jams. If any of any consequence are found, pry the fins up and down on the tubes clearing the affected part, which is removed and replaced with a new piece of tubing and soldered in place. Then turn a stream of water into the radiator and let it run for fully an hour, or until it is fully flushed out. Next, inspect the hose connections, as the rubber lining often becomes cracked and breaks away from the fabric which retards the circulation, by filling the passage with hanging shreds of rubber. Then plug up the lower entrance to the water jackets and fill the jackets with a solution of 2 gal. of water to 1⁄2 lb. of washing soda. Let this solution stand in the jackets for one-half hour; then flush out with clean water. The carburetor and manifolds should be removed and cleaned. The float, if cork, should be allowed to dry. It is then given a coat of shellac and allowed to dry before reassembling the carburetor.
The engine should then be turned over slowly to test the compression on each cylinder. If it is found to be strong on each cylinder, the piston rings and cylinder wall may be passed as being in good condition. In case you find one cylinder is not as strong as the others, the trouble may be ascertained by inspection. It may be caused by a scored cylinder wall, worn piston rings, leaky gasket, or pitted valve seats. Next remove the head of the motor and remove the carbon with a scraper and wash with kerosene. If the motor is not of the detachable head type, remove the valve cup and use a round wire brush to loosen the carbon. It is best in this case to burn out the carbon with oxyacetylene flame.
Next remove the valves and test the springs for shrinkage or weakness. If any are found that do not conform in length, replace them with new springs. Grind the valves (see previous Chapter on [Valve Grinding]).
Next examine the water pump and pack the boxing with a wick or hemp cylinder packing.
Cleaning the Lubricating System.—Remove the plug in the bottom of the crank case and drain out the oil. Replace the plug and pour 1 gal. of kerosene into the crank case through the breather pipe and spin the motor. Then remove the drain plug and allow the kerosene to drain out. After it has quit running, turn the motor over a few times and allow it to drain one-half hour. Replace the plug and fill the crank case to the required level with fresh cylinder oil. Next, remove the plate from the timing gear case and inspect the gears for wear and play. If they are packed in grease, remove the old grease and wash out the case with kerosene. If they receive their oil supply from the crank case it will only be necessary to inspect them for wear. Then replace the motor head, timing gear case plate and manifolds, using new gaskets and new lock washers. Next clean the spark plugs and ignition systems (see chapter on [Spark Plugs] and [Ignition System]).