Then we proceed to the different types of clutches. The cone clutch usually does not require cleaning, but in cases where it has been exposed to grease or lubricating oil the leather face may be cleaned with a cloth dampened in kerosene, after which a thin coating of Neat’s foot oil is applied to the leather facing. The cone is then replaced and the springs adjusted until it runs true. This is determined by holding it out and spinning it.
The wet and dry plate clutches are treated in much the same manner. First drain out all the oil or grease and wash out the housing with kerosene. Examine all parts for wear and adjust or replace loose parts. Fill the housing up to the slip shaft with fresh oil or grease, that is, providing it is a wet plate clutch. The dry plate clutch need only be washed with kerosene to remove any grease or dirt that has lodged on the plates.
Cleaning the Transmission.—First drain off the oil and wash the gear with a brush dipped in kerosene. Then inspect the bearings for looseness. If you find one badly worn, replace the bearing at each end of the shaft. Next, examine the gears. If they are blunt, burred or chipped, smooth them off on an emery wheel or with a coarse file. Wash out the case with kerosene and fill with a thick transmission oil or grease until the fartherest up meshing point is covered to the depth of from 1 to 11⁄2 inches. Examine the slots or notches on the horizontal sliding shafts in the cover of the case which holds the gears in or out of mesh. If the slots are badly worn it will be necessary to replace sliding shafts or it may be necessary to replace the springs which hold the ball or pin to the shaft and slots.
The universal joints are cleaned and freed of all grease and dirt. The bushings and trunion head are inspected for looseness. If any exists a new set of bushings will usually remedy the trouble. The housing should then be packed with a medium or fairly heavy cup grease.
Next we come to the differential which is treated in the same manner as the transmission, except that the housing is packed with a much heavier grease, and new felt washers are placed at the outer end of the housing where the axle extends to the wheels.
The rear system is then jacked up until both wheels clear the ground. The brakes are then tested and adjusted (see chapter on [Brakes]), and the rear wheels tested for looseness. If the axle is of the full floating type looseness may be taken up by withdrawing the axle and loosening the lock nut back of the cone and driving the notched cone ring to the right (facing it) until the play is taken up. When looseness is found in the semi-floating or three quarters floating axle it is necessary to replace the outer bearing which is located inside of the outer end of the housing tube.
Next examine the springs (see chapter on [Springs and Spring Tests]).
This brings us to the steering gear, which should be inspected, tightened up, and freed from all play at the various joints and connections, after which it should be well packed with grease.
The front wheels should be jacked up and tested for loose or worn bearings and spindle pins. The bearings can usually be adjusted while the loose spindle pin or bushing should be replaced. After the bearings have been adjusted or replaced, pack the space in the hubs between the bearings with a medium hard oil or cup grease, which will sufficiently lubricate the bearings for 2000 miles of service.
The wheels and axles are then lined up (See chapter on [Alignment]).