A. Front wheels. Take off hub cap, remove cotter pin and unscrew castle nut and spindle washer. The adjustable bearing cone can then be taken out and the wheel removed. Care should be taken to see that the cones and lock nuts are replaced on the same spindle from which they were removed, otherwise there is a liability of stripping the threads which are left on the left spindle and right on the opposite as you stand facing the car. Back wheels. They should not be removed unless absolutely necessary, in which case proceed as above. Then with a wheel puller remove the wheel from the tapered shaft to which it is locked with a key. In replacing rear wheels be sure that nut on axle shaft is as tight as possible and cotter pin in place. The hub caps of the rear wheels should be removed occasionally and the lock nuts which hold the hub in place tightened. If these nuts are allowed to work loose, the resulting play on the hub key may eventually twist off the axle shaft.
Q. How does the setting of the front wheels differ from that of the rear wheels?
A. It will be observed that the front wheels are “dished”; that is, the spokes are given a slight outward flare to enable them to meet side stresses with less rigid resistance, while the spokes of the rear wheels are straight. The front wheels are also placed at an angle, that is to say, the distance between the tops of the front wheels is about three inches greater than between the bottoms. This is to give perfect steering qualities and to save wear on tires when turning corners. The front wheels should not, however, “toe-in” at the front, at least not more than a quarter of an inch. Lines drawn along the outside of the wheels when the latter are straight in a forward position should be parallel. All wheels should always be kept in proper alignment, otherwise steering will be difficult and tire wear will be greatly increased. Adjustment can be made by turning the yoke at the left end of the spindle connecting rod, to draw the wheels into a parallel position.
Q. What care do the springs need?
A. The springs should be lubricated frequently with oil or graphite. To do this, pry the leaves apart near the ends and insert the lubricant between them. Whenever a car is given a general overhauling, the springs should be disassembled and the leaves polished with emery cloth, afterwards packing them with graphite when reassembling. Rust can be prevented from accumulating on the springs by painting them when necessary with a quick drying black paint. You will find that these suggestions if carried out will not only improve the riding qualities of the car but prolong the life of the parts as well.
Q. Should spring clips be kept tight?
A. Yes. If the spring clips are allowed to work loose the entire strain is put on the tie bolt which extends through the center of the spring. This may cause the bolt to be sheared off and allow the frame and body to shift to one side. It is a good plan to frequently inspect the clips which hold the springs to the frame and see that they are kept tight.
Q. What about the steering apparatus?
A. It is exceedingly simple and will need little care except, of course, proper lubrication. The post gears which are arranged in the “sun and planet” form are located at the top of the post just below the hub of the wheel. By loosening the set screw and unscrewing the cap after having removed the steering wheel they may readily be inspected and replenished with grease. To remove the steering wheel unscrew the nut on top of the post and drive the wheel off the shaft with a block of wood and hammer.
Q. How is the steering gear tightened?