After having pass'd the Inn[157] over a very slender wooden Bridge I climb'd a high Mountain, got down another, ascended a third, and so I travell'd all the way up Hill and down Hill till I came within two Leagues of Saltzbourg, where the Country becomes more passible.
The City of Saltzbourg as well as the whole Archbishoprick takes its Name from the River Saltz which passes thro' the City and Country. It rises in Tirol and loses itself in the Inn. The Mountains that are
about the Town make it not near so broad as 'tis long, tho' take it all together 'tis not a large Town. 'Tis very well fortify'd, and has a Castle which standing on an Eminence forms as it were a Citadel. 'Tis furnish'd with a good Arsenal, and all manner of Ammunition, and I have been assur'd that of Gunpowder alone there are no less than 20000 Quintals. Some Years ago when I was here, Lightning fell so near this Magazine that it wanted but half a Foot of penetrating to the Powder, which if it had touch'd I fancy I shou'd never have wrote to you more. There is always a Guard of fifty Men at the Castle, and the Garison of the Town consists of 600 Men who are lodg'd in the Caserns.
The City of Saltzbourg contains finer Edifices than many great Towns. It has a magnificent Cathedral which was consecrated the 24th of September 1628, by an Archbishop who was of the Family of the Counts de Lodron. 'Tis a vast Structure of Free-stone, and has a stately Front which may be reckon'd the compleatest in Germany. The skilful Architect by whom it was directed has very much copy'd the Front of St. Agnes's Church in the Square of Navona at Rome. It has four Marble Statues bigger than the Life, which represent St. Peter, St. Paul, St. Rupert, and St. Virgilius, of whom the two latter were the first Archbishops of this See. The whole Church is adorn'd in the inside with Pilastres of the Corinthian Order. 'Tis built in the Form of a Cross with a very high Dome which separates the Nave from the Choir. The high Altar which is at the bottom of the Choir is of Marble, as are the two Chapels that form the Cross: The Pavement of the Church is of great Squares of Marble of various Colours. 'Tis pity there was not more Inlet for Light, the Dome being the only lightsome Part of it. But as the Church is magnificent the
Ornaments of the high Altar are more so. Upon the Grand Festivals it bears a Sun of Gold adorn'd with precious Stones to the Value of 100000 Crowns, a great Cross of massy Gold, and four golden Candlesticks. The Front of the Altar, and the Tabernacle are of massy Silver of excellent Workmanship.
St. Rupert surnam'd the Apostle of Bavaria was the first Bishop of Saltzbourg in 582. Leo III. whom the Church honour'd as a Saint, erected this Bishoprick into an Archbishoprick in favour of St. Arnould, in the Year 798. He had for Suffragans the Bishops of Freisingen, Ratisbon, Passau, Briken, Gurck, Chiemsee, Seggau, and Lavant.
The Archbishop has a Right of Nomination to the four last Bishopricks; only the Nomination to the Bishoprick of Gurck is alternative between this Prelate and the Emperor, as Archduke of Austria. The four Bishops bear the Title of Princes of the Empire, and enjoy all the Prerogatives annexed to that high Dignity. Notwithstanding this, the Archbishop never gives them the Preference, and when he talks to them, only compliments them with the Title of Euer Freuntschaft, i. e. Your Friendship. Service is perform'd in this Metropolis according to the Usage observ'd in St. Peter's Church at Rome. The Chapter is compos'd of the Archbishop, a Provost, a Dean, and twenty four Canons, all Men of Quality, who are only oblig'd to four Months Residence, and the rest of the Time they may go where they please. Both the Provost and Dean have the Crosier and Mitre[158]. The Archbishop, as well as the Elector of Cologn, has the Privilege of dressing in the Habit of a Cardinal. This Prelate has the Directorship of the College of Princes at the Dyet of the Empire alternatively with the Archduke of Austria. He is moreover Legatus natus
& perpetuus of the Holy See, and Primate of Germany. His Titles are these, 'Leopold, by the Grace of God, Archbishop of Saltzbourg, and Prince of the Empire, perpetual Legate of the Holy Apostolic See of Rome, Primate of Germany, descended of the illustrious Family of the Barons of Firmian.'
The Archbishop at his coming to the See must pay 100000 Crowns to Rome for the Pall, but the Country generally raises it for him, besides making a free Gift of the like Sum to its new Prince. The Revenues of this Prelate are about 1500000 Florins a Year. The very Salt which is carried into Bavaria and Swabia brings him in 30000 Crowns. He is absolute Master of all his Revenues, and accountable to no body for what he lays out. The present Archbishop is of Tirol, of a distinguish'd Family, but not favour'd much by Fortune. He was born the 26th of May 1679, and succeeded Francis-Anthony the Count de Harrach. His Advancement was owing to the Division of the Chapter, who all wanted to be either Bishops themselves, or else to advance some one Friend or Cousin. After a great many Debates and Messages sent forwards and backwards, their Choice fell upon the Baron de Firmian who was at that time very infirm, which was the only Thing that procur'd him the Mitre; for the Parties that divided the Chapter united in his favour, because they thought him a Man not very long-liv'd; but they believ'd however he might live long enough to give each Party time to form its Cabals for advancing that Person to the Bishoprick who they thought would best serve their Purpose. But all those Gentlemen were mightily mistaken as to the Archbishop's Life. For this Prelate, like another Pope Sixtus V. lost all his Infirmities when he found the Mitre, and is very like to out-live many of his Electors.