This Prince is tall, has an austere haughty Air; seldom makes any Compliments, and talks much less, except when he is hunting, which is all the Pleasure of his Life. He is almost always alone, and generally eats by himself. In the Summer-time he keeps altogether in the Country where he is of very difficult Access, and keeps no Retinue, nor Company. He is accus'd of being too thrifty, and I don't know but there may be something in it; but perhaps he would not appear to be quite so saving if he had succeeded any body else in the Bishoprick but the Count de Harrach, the most generous, noble, and most magnificent Prelate of his Time. The Archbishop is naturally a Valetudinarian; and under God, he is oblig'd for the Preservation of his Life to his Physician Gersner, a Native of Vienna, a Man of great Skill in his Profession, and of strict Honour and Integrity, who has got so much the length of the Prelate's Foot that he is almost the only Person that dares to speak to him with Freedom. The Count d'Arco Son to the Archbishop's Sister is this Prelate's only Darling; for to the surprize of the whole Court, and Chapter, he prefers him before a Nephew of his own Name, a Canon of Saltzbourg and of Trent, a young Clergyman of great Hopes.
The Archbishop of the Lodron Family who caus'd the Metropolis to be built, likewise founded the Archiepiscopal Palace, the Fortifications, and the Stables, which were all finish'd in the thirty two Years that he was Archbishop. The Apartments of the Palace being not laid out altogether in the modern Taste, the deceased Archbishop Anthony Count de Harrach, made a thorough Change in them, and left little more than the Outside standing. The Palace at Saltzbourg is now more magnificent than many royal Houses. It contains 173 Rooms all richly furnish'd, without reckoning the Halls and Galleries. The Archbishop's Apartment is
stately: It has a great Marble Stair-case divided into three Flights, which leads into a spacious Guard-Chamber, from whence one enters into the Archbishop's Apartment consisting of several Rooms, where able Italian Masters have adorn'd the Cielings with very good Draughts. One is really surprized to see the Richness of the Furniture, and the infinite Variety of other things that are distributed up and down this vast Apartment; such as Marble Tables adorn'd with gilt Mouldings; old Porcellain of the most beautiful sort; Lustres of massy Silver, and Rock Crystal of uncommon Workmanship; Chandeliers also of Silver or Crystal upon large gilded Stands, and a multitude of other things very well worth observation.
How magnificent soever this Apartment is, there's another made use of upon Days of Ceremony which infinitely surpasses it. I will only mention the principal Rooms of it. We first enter into a great Salon adorn'd with the Pictures of no less than fourscore Archbishops of Saltzbourg. Next to it there's another Salon ingeniously and magnificently decorated, which discovers Grandeur in every part of it. 'Tis furnish'd with a Suit of Hangings of Crimson-Damask with Gold Lace, forming a rich Architecture in Pilasters of the Composite Order, the Frize of which is adorn'd with a pair of Brackets, which is a vast Addition to the whole Decoration. The rich Gilding shines every where with profusion. At one end of the Room there stands in the Wall a sumptuous Beaufet of Silver gilt, and at the other there's a rich Canopy under which the Archbishop sits when he dines in State. There's a stately Lustre in the middle of the Room which consists of magnificent pieces of Rock Crystal. At the end of this grand Apartment there are two Galleries that deserve the attention of the Curious in Painting, who will certainly pass their time here very agreeably,
and find a great many choice Pictures done by the best Masters. The Chimney-piece of the first of these Galleries is a great Ornament to it, being of the finest Marble adorn'd with Brass, gilt with Water-Gold. Over it there's a Statue of Brass as big as the Life representing Antinous. The second Gallery is as magnificent as the first. The Floor, Cieling, Door-Cases, and all the Ornaments in general are of fine Marble. The Walls are painted in Fresco, and exhibit Geographical Charts of the principal Dominions in Europe in divers Pictures, which are executed with very great Art and Exactness both as to the Painting and Disposition of the Things that are the Subjects of it.
A third Apartment which is over the Archbishop's is for lodging foreign Princes, and is not inferiour to the others in Grandeur and Magnificence. It consists of several Rooms all in a row. In one Room there are all the Pictures of the Emperors from Charlemain to Charles VI. The Rooms that follow it are hung with very rich Tapestry, particularly one Set representing the War between Pompey and Cæsar, which is so wonderfully well drawn that the Marshal de Daun Governour of Milan offer'd 40000 Florins for it to the late Archbishop. I shall say nothing of the other Apartments, having treated so much of the Archiepiscopal Palace; tho' if it had belong'd to a Temporal Prince I should have said much less of it, but I thought fit to give you an Idea of the Wealth of a Prelate.
Adjoining to the Palace there is a great Building which serves for lodging the Archbishop's Domestics. The Stables are fit for a King, and if a Frenchman was to see them he would be forc'd to own that as to the Inside they are more magnificent than the so much boasted Stables of Versailles. They hold 150 Horses in two Rows, with a broad Walk in the middle; and the Roof which is pretty high
is supported by two Ranges of Stone-Pillars. Next to these Stables is a Riding-House cover'd, the Ceiling of which being painted in Fresco, represents a Tournament; and all round it there is a Gallery. 'Tis pity that this magnificent Riding-House is not broader. There's another Riding-House uncovered which has not its Fellow in the World. 'Tis a very great square Place, three Sides of which are lin'd by very high Rocks, in which three Rows of Seats are very artfully cut out for the Spectators, when there is any Carousal, or Combat of wild Beasts. The whole Work is really magnificent, and the old Romans would not have been ashamed to own it.
Trinity-College Church is extremely well adorned. The Floor is of Marble, and the Roof painted with a great deal of Art, representing the Assumption of the Virgin, and the Crown placing on her Head by God the Father and by Jesus Christ. The High-Altar is of a very singular Form, but very magnificent. Two Angels of Brass, exceeding human Stature, in a Posture of Humility and Adoration, support a Heart of Brass which serves for a Tabernacle. Over it is a Globe, between God the Father and the Redeemer. God the Father seems to rest his right hand upon the Globe, and presents the left to our Lord, who puts his left upon the Globe, and in the right holds a Cross. They are supported by very large Rays which shine with very rich Gilding. This stately Groupe is surmounted with a Glory, in the midst of which the Holy Ghost appears in form of a Dove, extending its Rays over God the Father, and God the Son. The whole is of Brass gilt with Gold, of a very curious Fancy.
Near this magnificent Church is the Palace of Mirabel, where the late Archbishop the Count de Harrach, used to spend the Summer. This Prince who is truly magnificent in every thing, caus'd this House to be built at a great Expence from the very