The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume I / Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several Courts.

by Freiherr von Karl Ludwig Pöllnitz

LETTER XXIV.

SIR,Inspruc, April 9, 1730.

I travelled hither all the way from Saltzbourg, with the same Horses, which is what I will never do again; for travelling by Post is always best; and though 'tis more expensive, yet on the other hand 'tis less fatiguing.

Three Leagues from Saltzbourg stands the little Town of Halle, which belongs to the Elector of Bavaria, and is a Place considerable for its Salt-Pits. It lies in a small Valley crossed by three Rivers, form'd by Torrents from the Mountains, which bring down a vast quantity of floating Wood, that is stopp'd at Halle by the Piles which either cross or shut up the Rivers. They lay the Wood up in store for the Salt-Works, which consume a great quantity of it.

After I had been all over the Salt-Works, I went and din'd at Schneitzenrieth, a sorry Village, where, however, I far'd better than I have done at many good Towns.

When I had dined I pursued my Journey, and having travelled four Leagues, entred the Country of Tirol, the Passage to which is very much straitened, so that there's scarce room for a Waggon, by two very high Rocks or Mountains, and two Forts between them, one belonging to the Archbishoprick of Saltzbourg, and the other to the County of Tirol. Each Sovereign keeps a Garrison in his Fort, and Officers to receive the Duties.

I lay that Evening at Wahtringen, the first Village in the Dominions of Tirol, as one comes out of Germany. I here found a Parcel of Boys running about with lighted Touchwood in their hands, to the Houses, Woods, and Fields. Having ask'd an old Man the meaning of it, he told me that the Wood so lighted was consecrated by the Parson of the Parish, and had the virtue of securing all Places to which it was carried, against Lightning. This Consecration of the Wood is always perform'd the Saturday before Easter, when a great Pile is erected before the Church, into which the Parson throws Holy water, and then sets fire to It. When the whole is well kindled, every one strives to snatch a Firebrand, with which they run to their Houses and Lands, but with so little care that I wonder they don't set every place they come to in a Flame.

From Halle to Wahtringen the Country is every bit uncultivated. The Inhabitants live upon Milk, Pickled Cabbage, and Water-gruel. They have no Corn but what comes from Bavaria. All their Substance and Trade is in Cattle, and their Mountains afford excellent Pasture.