Upon Easter-day I heard Mass at St. John's, a great Village where there's a very pretty Church. I was very much pleased with the Sermon that was preached by the Parson, and with the Regularity with which the whole Divine Service was performed.
After Mass I went and din'd at Elvan, to which place I came through a Valley, which in the Summer time must be very agreeable, but at the present Season is all covered with Snow. I was not more edified at Wahtringen, than I was scandalized at Elvan, to catch my Landlord, a clever, merry Blade, engaged with one of his Maids in something else instead of telling their Beads. My Presence was
so far from spoiling Sport that my Landlord invited me very civilly to do as he did, assuring me that his House was well furnish'd with Nymphs. In a very little time I was convinced that what he said was true, for being obliged by the Cold to stay in the common Room while one was aired for me, I saw half a score Lasses come in, who were all of them my Landlord's very humble Servants, and not in the least disposed to imitate the eleven thousand Virgins.
After Dinner, pursuing my way through Snows and Rocks, I went and lay at Kundahl. Next day I got beyond the Snow, and crossed a very pleasant Valley which brought me to Ratenberg, a Town on the Banks of the Inn, defended by a Castle built on a Rock, and stronger by its Situation than by its Works. The Elector Maximilian-Emanuel of Bavaria coming before this Castle on the 13th of June, 1703, obliged the Garrison, which was composed of the Militia, to surrender at Discretion. From this Fort to Inspruc I always kept along the River Inn, which runs through a fine Valley between high Mountains that are much steeper on the right side of the River than the left; nevertheless there are Houses on them that are inhabited by the Miners. I can't imagine how it was possible for the good People to build in Places so inconvenient; for their Houses look as if they were stuck on to the Rocks, and as if nothing but a Goat or a Swallow could come at them. The whole Valley is very populous, and abounds with pretty Villages, Castles, and fine Country-Houses.
At the end of it stands the Town of Schwatz, which is very well built. The Parish Church is an ancient, fair, large Edifice; and wholly covered with Copper, as most of the Churches in Tirol are with Tin painted green, which has a very pretty look. The Houses at Schwatz are generally of Brick, so that 'tis very rare to see one of Timber. I observ'd
at the Inn where I din'd, and throughout the whole Country of Tirol, that when People came into any House, they said to the Master of it, Hail, Jesus Christ! to which he answered, May Christ be praised, and the holy Virgin his Mother. Then the Master of the House stepp'd forward, and took the Visitor by his hand. This method of saluting is practised among all the People throughout Tirol; and the Salutation is fix'd up in Print at all the Doors, with an Advertisement tack'd to it, importing, that Pope Clement XI. had granted an hundred Days of Indulgence, and plenary Absolution, in favour of those who should pronounce the Salutation and the Answer.
After having din'd at Schwatz, I continued to ride along the Inn; and three Leagues beyond that I pass'd the River, over a Bridge near Fultishau, a fine Convent of the Servite-Fryars, and went to Halle, the second City of Tirol. The reverend Fathers the Jesuits have a fine House here, and a noble Church, with a great Garden to it. The Mint is also worth seeing, where they coin a great quantity of Species from the Silver and Copper taken out of the Mines of Tirol. The Water is brought to it by wooden Pipes. They drive a great Trade at Halle in Copper, Tin, and Salt, which is produced there in abundance, the Vent of it being promoted by means of the River Inn, which becomes navigable at Halle.
From this Town to Inspruc 'tis two Leagues, and a strait even Road which deserves to be planted on each side with Trees. Inspruc, the Capital City of Tirol, stands in the middle of a Valley, on the Banks of the Inn, over which there's a wooden Bridge that leads to the Suburbs. Inspruc was heretofore the Residence of the Archdukes, the Sovereigns of Tirol; but since the august House of Austria has been reduced in Germany to the Imperial
Branch singly, this City has been only subject to Governors, who however were always great Noblemen. Charles Duke of Lorrain, who married the Queen Dowager of Poland, Sister to the Emperor Leopold, and who made himself famous by the Victories which he gain'd over the Turks, held this important Office. That Prince dying at Inspruc, was succeeded by Charles Prince Palatine of Newbourg, Brother to the Empress Eleonora, Leopold's third Wife, but he renounced the Government of Tirol, on his Accession to the Electorate. He liv'd at Inspruc, with great Pomp, and his Absence is still very much lamented there. Since he went away, the Government of Tirol has remain'd vacant. They say 'tis designed for the Archduchess Mary-Magdalen, the Emperor's youngest Sister. This I know is what the Burghers of Inspruc wish for; but I don't think the Nobility do; because the Presence of the Archduchess would oblige the People of Quality to be at very great Expence; for they would be under a necessity of going to Court, as well as of carrying it more civilly to their Vassals.
The Count de Konickel is the Chief of the Regency: He has the Title of Landshauptman, which is much the same with Lieutenant-General of the Province, wherein he has the absolute Command, and all the Sovereign Courts depend on him. This Nobleman is a Tirolese, and lodges in a fine House which has been built by order of the States of Tirol, for the Residence of their Landshauptman. He conducts himself with Dignity, and is civil to Foreigners.