The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume I / Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several Courts.

by Freiherr von Karl Ludwig Pöllnitz

'Twas at Inspruc that the Emperor Charles V. received one of the greatest Shocks he had met with in all his Life. For he was surprized there with his Brother Ferdinand, King of the Romans, by Maurice Elector of Saxony, who, though his Creature, made War upon him nevertheless, on account of

Religion. The Emperor and his Brother were so near being taken that they had but just time to make their Escape to Villaco, a little Town upon the Drave in Carinthia. This was a terrible Reverse of Fortune for a Prince, who, but a few years before, had a Pope and a King of France too, his Prisoners.

Maximilian-Emanuel Elector of Bavaria was not more fortunate at Inspruc than Charles V. for though he made himself Master of it in June 1703, he was obliged to abandon it in July following, and to retire to Bavaria, after having tried in vain to force Passes which were in a manner inaccessible by Nature, and guarded not only by the Peasants but by regular Troops. His Design was to have joined M. de Vendosme in the County of Trent, and by that means to have opened a Communication with the Milanese. The Elector, whilst he was retreating, ran the hazard several times of losing his Life; and his Troops were for the most part knock'd o' th' head by Stones which the Peasants hurl'd at them in the Defiles which they were obliged to pass.

The City of Inspruc is absolutely defenceless, and were it not for its Suburbs, would be one of the least Cities in all Germany; but those Suburbs are very large, and the Residence of Persons of the greatest Distinction. The Houses are very commodious, well built of Brick, and for the most part with Piazzas, which is a great Conveniency to the Foot-passengers. There was heretofore great Store of Salt here, but for some years past the Pits are dry, which is a Loss to Inspruc of no less than 200,000 Florins a-year.

Though the City is small yet there are several very fine things to be seen in it. Such is the ancient Palace of the Archdukes, a vast large Structure, but without Architecture, or any manner of

Regularity. There are Pictures in it done by skilful Hands, particularly in that call'd the Giant's-Hall, where the Story of Dejanira is represented with very great Art and Perfection.

The Palace has very great Gardens belonging to it, but they are not well kept; yet there are the Remains of noble Fountains and brazen Statues. Among the latter is an Equestrian Statue of an Archduke of Austria, who is represented as large as the Life, in Armour, with Breeches after the Fashion of the Ancients, a Ruff, and little Boots. The Horse seems to rest upon his Haunches, in an Attitude as if he was just ready to leap off the Pedestal.

The Prince Charles of Newbourg, the present Elector Palatine, finding the old Castle not commodious enough, caused one to be built of Wood; which was some years ago burnt down to the ground by an accidental Fire.

The Parish Church is of modern Building, with a great Dome raised in the middle of the Cross. The whole Architecture of this Edifice is of the Corinthian Order. The Front is expos'd to an advantagious Point of View on a Square, and is adorned with three Orders, one above another, which makes the Fabric to rise in the whole to about 120 Foot height, exclusive of a great flight of Steps to it, after the manner of Italy. All the Parts of this Structure are charged with Ornaments of a clumsey Invention, and very ill executed; so that the Confusion resulting from it is infinitely shocking to those that have a nice Taste of Architecture. The Inside is more tolerable than the Outside, and is even magnificent. The whole Length from the Entrance to the Foot of the High-Altar, is 432 Feet. The Foundation of it was laid while Charles de Newbourg was Governor of Tirol, who plac'd the first Stone of it. The whole Decoration

of this Church consists in Pilasters of red Marble, with a Vein of white, and the Chapiters are of Plaister. The Roof is painted in Fresco by Gosman-Daniel Ossem, a Native of Munich, who has succeeded so well as to give entire satisfaction to such as have a Taste for, and Skill in things that are curious. The High-Altar stands under the Arch at the end opposite to the Nave of the Church. 'Tis perfectly magnificent, adorned with four great Pillars of the Composite Order, of green Marble with white Veins, whose Chapiters and Basons are of Marble of various Colours; and they support a Canopy, which is form'd by four Curves fill'd with a Glory.