Two Days ago I went to see the Scuola St. Rocco, which are Rooms where the Fraternities of that Saint meet, in which are Pictures done by the greatest Masters, particularly one in the great Room below, which is the Picture of the Annunciation done by Tintoret, a Piece highly esteem'd. This Picture is, without Contradiction, one of the finest and most affecting Paintings at Venice, because of the lively Expressions of Surprise, Admiration, and Joy which appear in the Virgin's Face. She is sitting in her Chamber, which the skilful Painter has represented as a plain mean Room in some Disorder with old and worn out Furniture. Upon the grand Stair-case there's another Picture representing the Annunciation in like manner, which is done by Titian, and is not one of the worst of his Performances. The upper Rooms are adorn'd with several Pictures done by Tintoret, in which he has described our Lord's Passion. Our Saviour appearing before Pilate is an admirable Piece; 'tis really moving to see the Modesty and Serenity
of his Countenance. A second Picture represents our Lord carrying his Cross. In a third, we see him fasten'd on it, and expiring for the Salvation of Mankind. These are invaluable Pieces, and are reckon'd the compleatest that ever Tintoret painted.
I have also been to see the chief Palaces, which lie for the most part on the great Canal, and that call'd Reggio. They are very magnificent, but they are generally so like one another that he who has seen one may say he has seen them all. They have little Court-Yards, less Gardens, and no Stables. Nothing goes to form a Palace at Venice but the main Body of the Building, a great Salon in the middle, and Apartments on the Right and Left; and setting aside the Marble, there are Palaces as magnificent elsewhere which have only the name of a House.
The Square of St. Mark is the ordinary Rendezvous of all the Gentry at Venice. There are Nobles who keep their constant Circuits here as it were, and who never stir from the Place but to Bed, for they pass their whole Time in Gaming at the Coffee-Houses, or in the Peruke-Makers Shops. The number of their Nobles is not limited; and any body for paying down 100000 Ducats may purchase Nobility. These Gentlemen compliment each other with the Title of Excellency, and 'tis what they all challenge from Foreigners. Mean time, some of those Excellencies go to the Shambles, and to the Fish-Market, and carry home their Meat or their Fish under their Robes, and some are so very poor that they go a begging. This Title is so very common here that I had much ado to hinder a Lackey whom I hired from giving it to me. Tho' I told him that I was by no means Excellent, he made me answer that he knew full well what Obligations were due to my Excellency, and that he would not be thought to be wanting in Respect to my Excellency. A
Frenchman lately come from Constantinople to whom I made my Complaints, how much this Title was prophan'd, assur'd me that the Venetians were still more lavish of it out of Venice, so that he heard the very Grooms belonging to the Baillo of the Republic at Constantinople, compliment one another with the Title of Excellency.
Among the Venetian Excellencies there are also Petits-Maitres who are known by their Doublets lin'd with Scarlet, their fine white Perukes, by their fantastical Step, and that Air of lolling which they give themselves in their Gondola's, which are much smaller and nimbler than the common sort. These Petits-Maitres are great Beaus, and have commonly more than one Mistress at a time, and indeed there are few Nobles but have one at least. These Creatures, excepting the little Liberty they enjoy, are as happy as Sultana's. Their Lovers treat them like Princesses, and the Venetians in general pay great respect to the whole Sex. I have seen Faustina the famous Singer, and Stringuetta the noted Courtezan come mask'd upon the Square of St. Mark, leaning on the Shoulders of Noblemen, and every Man paying them as much Obeisance as if they had been Ladies of great Importance. The same day that they appear'd on the Square there happen'd to be a Skirmish between two Women mask'd that were Rivals, who, as soon as they knew one another, fell out, went to Cuffs, tore off each other's Masks, and at last Knives were drawn, with which they cut one another so deeply that one of 'em was left dead on the Spot.
I now think it high time to finish my Letter which is already very long, and perhaps too full of Trifles. I have told you every Thing that came uppermost in my Mind, so that you have a perfect
Farrago, which however is a Proof of the Pleasure I take in corresponding with you.